Monday 28 February 2022

EAU DES DÉLICES by Le Jardin Retrouvé

If the past two years have taught us anything then it’s surely the importance of space. We all spent so much time stuck at home that it gave us a much-needed opportunity to look around at a lifetime of amassed belongings and ask, “Do I really need all of this?” In the world of perfume we’re always encouraged to go bigger and invest in the largest size, whether we want it or not, but a few companies are thankfully starting to go in the other direction. Le Jardin Retrouvé has just launched a new 15ml size in all of their fragrances, and there’s no better way to try out this space saver than with the classic Eau des Délices.

Le Jardin Retrouvé is a company that I’ve featured before, and so you might recognise the name, but it’s also one that has an important history. It’s widely recognised as the first true niche perfume brand and, with the exception of a brief hiatus, have continued to release the fragrances that made it a worldwide name since 1975. Originally founded by perfumer Yuri Gutsatz, but always recognising the input of his wife Arlette, the philosophy of the brand was to return the job of creating fragrance to the perfumer and away from the marketing machine and the accountants.

Yuri had been fortunate enough to study with numerous companies, including Mury and Chiris, but eventually settled with Roure Bertrand Fils in 1945. Interestingly, this company ended up merging with Givaudan, and they would indirectly play an important part in the company’s relaunch in 2016. This was because one of their stable of perfumers, Maxence Moutte, became Le Jardin Retrouvé‘s new perfumer in residence. It was his job to revisit the original formulas, make minor changes to bring them in line with current regulations, and help restore the lustre to this diamond in French perfumery.

The company is now controlled by Yuri’s son, Michel Gutsatz, and his wife Clara Feder. They took the decision this year to introduce a 15ml version of their fragrances, and also redesign the bottle. Resembling a gateway, it’s green Bakelite cap is a wonderful nod to the past and the small size makes it ideal to carry around with you. So, with the weather getting warmer, Eau des Délices seemed like the perfect fragrance to pair it with. Originally launched in 1982 as Véritable Eau de Cologne, the strength may have been increased a tad for a modern audience but its brightness is as refreshing as ever.

Eau des Délices opens as you would expect from a cologne, with a rush of uplifting citrus, but hidden within the traditional orange and lemon is a more aromatic quality. The green bergamot is expertly partnered with lavender, and the edgy neroli is accentuated by the wonderfully bitter woodiness of petitgrain. There’s a whisper of rose in the centre but, before you have a chance to veer off into floral territory, an earthy vetiver and oakmoss appear. This dryness links with the citrus notes perfectly and, as the fragrance continues to settle onto the skin, a final pairing of patchouli and sandalwood complete this irresistible cologne.

Eau des Délices is available from Le Jardin Retrouvé’s website at lejardiretrouve.com priced at €35 for 15ml, €90 for 50ml, and also as a refill priced at €100 for 125ml. [Sample provided by Le Jardin Retrouvé]

2 comments:

  1. Eau des Delices was graded with 4 stars by Luca Turin in 2018 Perfumes book

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    1. Hello, thank you or your comment. He did indeed give it 4 stars, and it's definitely worth it. Best, Stephan

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