Showing posts with label No.5. Show all posts
Showing posts with label No.5. Show all posts

Monday, 15 May 2023

STEPHAN'S SIX - ALEXANDRE HELWANI

A picture of Alexandre Helwani

The world of perfumery is one that can draw an individual in many different directions, and that is certainly true of Alexandre Helwani. He's the founder and lead writer for The Perfume Chronicles, perfumer in his own right, and also the insightful brand ambassador for Histoires de Parfums. However, I thought it was time to dig a little deeper and discover his scented secrets during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 16 August 2021

STEPHAN'S SIX - REBECCA HARRISON


After an impressive career working with some of the world’s finest fragrance and beauty houses, Rebecca Harrison decided that the time was right to launch her own perfume company, Vines House Parfum. Having split her time between Dorset and the southwest of France, the collection drew on the parallels between the wine and fragrance industries, and proved an instant hit with customers that were looking for perfumes with a story. So, as they celebrate their second birthday, I thought it was time to learn a little more about Rebecca during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 19 April 2021

CIEL D'ETÉ by L.T. Piver

Three years ago, almost to the day, I wrote an article about how the ageing process can alter a perfume’s scent. Over time the volatile citruses can thin out, if not disappear completely, and the resinous vanillas and woods can become decidedly richer than was ever intended. Add into the mix storage conditions and you’ll see why perception can become confused. This is why when I saw the discontinued Ciel d'Eté (Summer Sky) by L.T. Piver simply described as “leathery and woody” something didn’t sound right. So, I pulled my cherished bottle out of storage and, for the first time, opened it to the elements. What I smelled was totally unexpected.

Monday, 7 October 2019

STEPHAN'S SIX - SONIA CONSTANT


After training at ISIPCA in Versailles, Sonia Constant joined the world-famous Givaudan and went on to create for the likes of Guerlain, Narciso Rodriguez, and Alexander McQueen. She possesses the rare talent of combining passion with precision and so when I met her at the UK launch of her own perfume range, ELLA K, I wanted to discover the perfumer’s own fragrance memories during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 30 September 2019

STEPHAN'S SIX - ISABELLE GELLÉ


With a perfume heritage stretching back to 1826, Isabelle Gellé has dedicated herself to the creation of natural fragrances. One hundred and eighty years later, in 2006, she finally launched her own company and currently has three collections that take inspiration from travel right through to time. With a new home series about to launch, it’s time to discover Isabelle’s own perfume memories during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 29 October 2018

SHALIMAR by Guerlain

One of the joys of writing about scent is that I occasionally get the chance to revisit a fragrance that can truly be described as a “classic” in the history of perfumery. The word is used too frequently to describe all sorts of fragrances, and it often feels as though it has lost a little of its importance. However, when it comes to Shalimar by Guerlain the word is absolutely spot on. For a fragrance that is ninety-three years old, this matriarch of a scent still has something to offer to younger generations, especially those who dare to be different. Let me reintroduce you to this Jacques Guerlain classic.

Monday, 26 February 2018

STEPHAN'S SIX - PIA LONG


Originally from Finland, Pia started her UK adventure working for Elizabeth Arden before training in perfumery. An eye for detail and a nose for success saw her move to Lush Cosmetics where she created HQ/29 High Street, “the smell of a lush shop in a bottle”. After moves to Equinox Aromas and Orchadia, Pia launched Olfiction in July 2016, which is described as “the hub for all things fragrance”. With a rich background in fragrance, what would she reveal about her own scented memories during “Stephan’s Six”?

Monday, 29 January 2018

EVENING IN PARIS by Bourjois

January has been a vintage month for me this year with a chance to revisit some excellent fragrances that are sadly fading from peoples’ memories. This review is no different, but it’s a perfume that also holds family memories. When it launched I don’t think that anybody could have imagined just how successful it would become, and also how quickly its original origin would become buried beneath a copywriter’s vision. I’m talking about Soir de Paris, or Evening In Paris to give it its original name. Released by Bourjois in 1928, let me take you back ninety years and introduce you to this legendary scent.

Monday, 18 September 2017

STEPHAN'S SIX - MATTHEW AXE


Originally from Suffolk, Matthew Axe studied Graphic Design before going on to work with companies such as Thomas Pink, John Lewis and Gieves & Hawkes. After relocating to New York he was Creative Director on Martha Stewart’s award-wining magazine, Martha Stewart Living, and regularly oversees campaigns in the beauty industry. Recently working on Jo Malone’s Basil & Neroli launch, I wondered what would he reveal about his own perfume favourites during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 26 June 2017

THE LOST GIRL by Carol Drinkwater

To say that we live in very uncertain times would be an understatement. Society has constantly gone through struggles and upheavals, but what is now different is that we follow every twist and turn on twitter, Facebook, Instagram, and by SMS. There is no passage of time while we wait for information to come through; it’s now relentlessly instant. For the plot of her latest novel, Carol Drinkwater has collided the 2015 Bataclan attack with the perfume fields of Grasse, and produced a work that uses scented references to lift the very words from the page and resonate with the reader. THE LOST GIRL is an emotional roller-coaster.

Thursday, 4 May 2017

The Age Of Transparency

"Transparency" is a word that you often hear mentioned when it comes to the perfume industry. For many years perfume houses would release fragrances under their own name, or assign them to an in-house "nose", when they had actually been created by an outside company. This wasn't done maliciously; it was just the way the industry worked. Customers were not particularly interested in who had made the juice in the bottle, just that it came with their favourite company's logo on the glass. Of course there had always been fans that wanted to know every detail but it’s only recently that "transparency" has become the industry's key word.

Thursday, 27 April 2017

4160Tuesdays' DANGLY DO-DAH

It’s always interesting to find new ways of using fragrance but people still seem to make a very definite divide between perfume and home scents. Perfumes are seen as a daily necessity whilst home scents are regarded as fairly functional. I’m sure that most people have had a Jo Malone candle at some point or a White Company Room Diffuser but was it exactly the scent that you expected? So often the fragrance that we really want doesn’t exist in a home product, but 4160Tuesdays have come to the rescue. With the help of their Dangly Do-Dah, yes you read that right, you can now have any scent that you desire.

Monday, 30 January 2017

STEPHAN'S SIX - MICHAEL ANGOVE


Michael Angove first collaborated with Jo Malone London back in 2014 but this month sees five of his designs used to re-promote their iconic soap line. Originally from Barry in South Wales, but now living in Devizes, he studied at the Winchester School of Art and then the Royal College of Art before working as a print designer for Jean Paul Gaultier, Hugo Boss and Liberty Department Store. With his work now exhibited all over the world I thought it was time to catch up with this fellow Welshman and ask him “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 26 September 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - JOHN STEPHEN


When the Cotswold Perfumery opened in 1965 few could have thought that it would reach last years' milestone of forty years. Based in the English village of Bourton on the Water its perfumer is John Stephen. He creates fragrances for his own company but also for much larger organisations, although which ones is a closely guarded secret. So, I thought it was about time John came out of the shadows, and the laboratory, to answer "Stephan's Six".

Monday, 15 August 2016

CHANEL No.5 L'EAU by Olivier Polge

When it was announced in May that Chanel were going to launch a new interpretation of their classic No.5 the internet went crazy. You had praise and damnation in almost equal measure, and nobody had even smelled it at that point. Created by the new nose of Chanel, Olivier Polge, for some it seemed a step too far, we already had Eau Premiere, whilst to others the news was greeted with fan club enthusiasm. With an approaching UK launch date of September 1st I think it's time to see if Chanel No.5 L'Eau really is a new interpretation for a new generation, or merely a dilution of the brand's heritage.

Thursday, 9 June 2016

Agatha Christie - The Scent Of Murder

Fragrance has always been regarded as one of the best triggers for our memories, but we sometimes forget just how much trouble it can get us into as well. Perfume on a collar, whisky on your breath, cigarette smoke in the air. One lady who put fragrance to full use was the Queen of Crime, Agatha Christie. In three of her books it is the scent, and even the lack of it, that helps Poirot's "little grey cells" to solve the mystery. With "scented" book suggestions by Agatha Christie expert John Curran, along with contributions from Nick Gilbert, Odette Toilette and Luca Turin, let's look at those stories and, alongside a perfume suggestion for each crime, we'll investigate the Scent of Murder!

Thursday, 2 June 2016

Does HABANITA Still Have Her Bite?

“Le parfum le plus tenace du monde” was a huge statement to make about any fragrance, but the one that was being described definitely deserved the accolade. Outside of its home town it translates as “the longest lasting perfume in the world”, and it is interesting to note that this “tenacious” fragrance actually came about by accident. I’m talking about Habanita by Molinard, and in her ninety-fifth year it’s time we looked back on this sensual grand dame. How did she become such a phenomenon, what does it share with Chanel No.5, and are the rumours of a discontinuation really true?

Monday, 9 May 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - CLARE REES


When Demeter Colognes launched in the UK under the name of The Library of Fragrance it was with Clare Rees at the helm. An unconventional perfume lover, which is why she was perfect for the brand, Clare has FINALLY succumbed to "Stephan's Six". I've subtitled this interview, "From Hairspray to Haute Couture", and with her eclectic selection you'll quickly understand why.

Monday, 21 March 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - KAREN GILBERT


Many people teach perfumery but very few are able claim the industry experience that Karen Gilbert can. She worked as a fragrance evaluator for many years before starting her own teaching and consultancy business, and her courses are always inspirational. A regular at perfumery events, what secrets would she reveal during "Stephan's Six"?

Thursday, 17 March 2016

VEGA ... Jacques Guerlain's Star

Different periods in history result in different fascinations, and these make themselves known in various forms. What do I mean by this? Simply that the subject or fashion of the day will find its way into every part of our normal life. Remember Bakelite and Melamine? They were used in every conceivable form, including as perfume bottles. So, in an era that became fascinated by the heavens Jaques Guerlain created Vega, and even placed it on its very own melamine plinth. To celebrate the perfume's ninetieth birthday let's plunge headlong into the stars and rediscover this lost Guerlain classic.