There are certain fragrances and styles that have earned a well-deserved place in history as “go to” scents, and this is even more incredible when they stretch across centuries. Tastes have a frustrating habit of changing, and so once-favoured perfumes or ingredients can become lost to time, but there are still some that doggedly hang around and refuse to be pushed into the corner. One such ingredient is the humble lime, and it’s this that is showcased so brilliantly in Shay & Blue Sicilian Limes. Originally launched in 2013, and created by perfumer Julie Massé, the time is definitely ripe for a revisit.
The link between music and perfume is one that is constantly referenced in today’s fragrances but, to be honest, those creative and academic similarities have been around since the very first scent was put in the very first bottle. Whether it’s the cross-over in terms of words like “notes” and “chords” or the naming of the “perfumer’s organ”, the intertwining of these two creative industries is clear to see. It’s not surprising then that some people have a foot in both camps, and strive to forge closer bonds between them. Leonie Sherif is the latest to try her hand, and her Venus perfume promises to “unlock the energy within”.
The excited wait for a new fragrance launch is something that is lost on many people these days, simply because there seems to be a new perfume released every minute! Keeping focused when there are images of bottles assaulting your eyes on social media, and campaigns running on the tv, gets harder every year. Add into this the ever-increasing prices and you’d be forgiven for taking up a more inexpensive hobby. Thankfully there’s one company that always keeps its offerings affordable and exciting. Fragonard have continued their Flower of the Year series into 2024 with Lilas, and the result is deliciously delightful.
One of the interesting aspects of “niche” or “independent” perfumery is its ability to adapt and evolve in directions that are specific to the company. Mainstream brands often feel more pressure to conform to trends and fashions, whereas the smaller companies can take advantage of the situation by pivoting based on their customers’ demands. I’m not talking about the usual “flankers” or “limited editions”, but more the idea of offering variations based on feedback received. One company that has fully embraced this idea is ånd fragrance, with their voyage-of-discovery collaboration with Careys Secret Garden.
Niche perfumery, artisan perfumery, independent perfumery - whichever term you prefer, it’s impossible to ignore the contribution that these make to the fragrance market. They have the ability to ignore high-street trends, because they're often produced in much smaller quantities, so the customer gets to experience scent styles they won’t find in the larger department stores. One of these independent companies is Orosmo Perfumery, and their two collections offer a wonderful insight into how “niche can be wearable”. So, with summer approaching, let’s head to the sea with the wonderfully aquatic Au Bord de la Mer.
Would you be brave enough to translate your innermost memories, or even your secret places, into scent? It’s a question that many new brands ask themselves when they are thinking of launching, but often they’ll opt for more pedestrian inspirations instead. Releasing a fragrance to the world is one thing, but sharing your soul adds another layer. If the perfume isn’t well received, how does that reflect upon your experiences? When Frances Lamb launched Teniqua it was exactly this route that she went down, but thankfully with universal praise. Tides of Love sees her swap memories for places, and the result is an absolute joy.
The scent of the sea has been a fragrance trend that, whilst arguably exemplified by the classic L'eau d'Issey pour Homme, continues to be experimented with constantly by perfume houses around the world. This idea of capturing the aroma, the feel, and the look of the ocean has been presented in many forms, but not all of them have managed to capture both the majesty alongside the delicacy. For the launch of their new eau de toilette, Fragonard have thrown their hat into the ring and introduced a second aquatic fragrance to their male range, and it’s a celebration in the form of Bleu Riviera by Jordi Fernández.
The world of perfumery is built upon multiple traditions, whether that’s a fragrance's classification or through to those pesky note pyramids, but one of the most obvious is the notion of how people discover a perfume. The majority will still go into a store and smell the latest release on a paper blotter, before taking the plunge and spraying themselves liberally, and this might lead to the gift of a precious 2ml sample from the salesperson. Now this has been the norm for decades, but Artimique is challenging this with her beautiful Heart Charm, and the UK-based Sainte Cellier is backing her every step of the way.
One of the continuing trends in the niche fragrance market is the appearance of the “self-taught perfumer”. Originally you had to go to one of the established perfumery schools, or work under a master perfumer, to perfect your sensory muscles, but all of that has now changed. With the ever-increasing online courses, as well as in-person taster sessions, the secret layers of the industry are being peeled away to allow a more diverse offering to customers who are hungry for originality. Now, the results from self-taught perfumers are very variable, but the release of Soapy Heart by Shloksha shows what’s possible with commitment.
