When it comes to answering the age-old question of how to make your fragrance last longer, the response is always to make sure that the skin you’re spraying the perfume onto is moisturised. The act of hydrating your skin can dramatically increase the longevity of your scent, but finding one that goes with your particular perfume can be a challenge. A decade ago a product was launched that has become my “go to” recommendation and, on its tenth birthday, it’s time for me to introduce it to you as well. More than just a body moisturiser, say hello to Ancienne Ambiance’s Goddess Argan Beauty Oil.
Launching any fragrance brand can be a daunting prospect with pitfalls and obstacles around every corner. It becomes even more of a challenge when the customer that you’re aiming for is more used to buying an “own brand” perfume as opposed to a high street or niche scent. The balance between performance and price is a precarious one to navigate in that market, but this hasn’t deterred Laurelle from entering the arena with their new range, The Scent Doctor. The first trio of fragrances is made up of Neroli, Gardenia, and Rose & Jasmine but, even at their prescription price, will you be making an appointment with this doctor?
It’s hard to believe that eleven years have passed since a perfume book was published that revolutionised the fragrance industry. Up until that point there had been magazine articles, reviews, and the world of blogger criticism was exploding, but there had never been a book that truly critiqued scent. This is where Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez came in with Perfumes: The A-Z Guide. Now in its umpteenth edition in the UK, and finally rereleased in America, it's time to revisit this legendary publication to see whether it can still claim to be, in the words of David Sexton, “nothing less than an essential possession.”
When a perfume company takes a very particular inspiration for its fragrances it can often run into difficulties with breaking out of a perceived style. This has been one of the challenges with Victor Wong’s Zoologist range, but it’s one that is about to be blown out of the water. The brand became known for highly scented animalic fragrances that often veered more towards “olfactory artistry” than “wearability” and, with the exception of Hummingbird and Camel, were very anchored in a niche clientele. This month sees the launch of Daniel Pescio’s Chameleon and his balance between style and substance is absolutely spot on.
It’s always very difficult to pin down the seasons, especially with the current unexpected variations in temperature, but there is one annual fragrance release that definitely makes it feel like spring has arrived. Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria range has earned a reputation for lifting us out of the winter blues and hinting at the warmth that is to come, and this year there are three to choose from. Flora Cherrysia, Ginger Piccante, and Coconut Fizz join the existing lineup and perfectly compliment the ten already on offer. Created by Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk, let’s see what Guerlain has created for 2019.
The pressures that are on companies to keep producing exciting and original fragrances have never been greater. Our constant demand for “new and diverting” has to be carefully tempered with “familiar and accessible” in order to make the cash registers ring. It’s this mainstream offering of safe, middle ground scents that has seen an increase in customers looking to independent and niche perfumers for their excitement and creativity. Sven Pritzkoleit of SP Parfums is a perfect example of this and last year saw the release of his wonderfully engaging Rose Polaroid. Six months later it’s time to revisit this flash-bulb floral.
When a company decides to launch a new fragrance, the decision faced is whether to branch out in a totally new direction or to trade on familiarity. A scent that is already well known has the advantage of being recognisable and, with careful branding, you can really capitalise on this. One company that have built an entire series around this idea is Estée Lauder and their Beautiful collection. The quote, “You are never too old to reinvent yourself” could have been written about Estee Lauder’s Beautiful Belle, the latest addition to the series, but will it be a permanent addition or a merely a two-year novelty?
Independent perfumers seem to be multiplying at an astonishing rate in the United Kingdom but “quantity” doesn’t seem to have diminished “quality” in this ever-expanding market. Whilst some have a small team to help with every aspect of the production, others really are one-person operations. However, being independent from large corporations means that these perfumers are free to create without the constraints of trend or fashion, and the results are often remarkable. Last year saw the launch of Herba London, founded by Peter de Bique, and his debut collection of eight fragrances was outstanding.
Jo Malone London started a tradition back in 2011 when they released their first “Brit Collection”, a series of fragrances that were designed to celebrate an aspect of British culture or history. From tea to the Tudors, and herbs to hyacinths, the company have always attempted to add a little fun into February and this year is no exception. Céline Roux, Vice President of Global Fragrance Development for Jo Malone London, called upon perfumers Yann Vasnier and Louise Turner to collaborate on the 2019 collection and the result is Wild Flowers & Weeds. So, will the company’s ninth year blossom or will it wilt?
