Showing posts with label Luca Turin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Luca Turin. Show all posts

Thursday, 29 April 2021

SPELL 125 by Papillon Perfumery

When we look at the never ending stream of reviews for any new perfume you could be forgiven for thinking that you’ve read it all before. Many of them seem to follow the press release from the company so rigidly that you can almost second guess what is going to be said. The real joy of fragrance is that different people can react in different ways to the same scent, so why not say so? This is what happened when I smelled the latest release from Liz Moores and Papillon Perfumery. Whilst it may have originally been inspired by ancient Egyptian rituals, Spell 125 took me instead to Germany and its annual celebration of Hexennacht.

Monday, 12 October 2020

Credit Where Credit Is Due

The feeling of pride that we all experience when we do, or create, something special is instilled in us from childhood. However, we’re also taught the flip side of this, and that is that taking the credit for someone else’s work is wrong. The perfume industry’s history is littered with misappropriations, and we’ll never know the perfumers who created some of the world’s most famous fragrances, but it surely can’t still be happening? The short answer is yes, it does, and that was unfortunately highlighted in Too Good To Go’s latest campaign. So, let’s take a look at why the old-fashioned “credit where credit is due” is being ignored.

Thursday, 21 March 2019

PERFUMES: THE A-Z GUIDE by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez

It’s hard to believe that eleven years have passed since a perfume book was published that revolutionised the fragrance industry. Up until that point there had been magazine articles, reviews, and the world of blogger criticism was exploding, but there had never been a book that truly critiqued scent. This is where Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez came in with Perfumes: The A-Z Guide. Now in its umpteenth edition in the UK, and finally rereleased in America, it's time to revisit this legendary publication to see whether it can still claim to be, in the words of David Sexton, “nothing less than an essential possession.”

Monday, 4 March 2019

ROSE POLAROID by SP Parfums

The pressures that are on companies to keep producing exciting and original fragrances have never been greater. Our constant demand for “new and diverting” has to be carefully tempered with “familiar and accessible” in order to make the cash registers ring. It’s this mainstream offering of safe, middle ground scents that has seen an increase in customers looking to independent and niche perfumers for their excitement and creativity. Sven Pritzkoleit of SP Parfums is a perfect example of this and last year saw the release of his wonderfully engaging Rose Polaroid. Six months later it’s time to revisit this flash-bulb floral.

Monday, 13 August 2018

STEPHAN'S SIX - TANIA SANCHEZ


One half of the formidable duo behind Perfumes: The Guide 2018, Tania Sanchez is a writer and editor now based in Greece. After growing up in California East Bay, Tania moved to London to co-author the first perfume book, Perfumes: The A-Z Guide, with Luca Turin. Now married to the “Emperor of Scent”, and with a style that is arrow-head sharp, I wondered what we would find out about Tania’s own perfume memories during “Stephan’s Six?”

Monday, 9 July 2018

PERFUMES: THE GUIDE 2018 by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez

A critic, a reviewer, or an expert of any kind is never going to be able to please everybody. What one person sees as art another will see as wallpaper, what one person hears as music another will hear as white noise, and what one person smells as perfume another will smell as "pine-fresh lavatory cleaner". Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez have released their long awaited Perfumes: The Guide 2018, the follow-up to their 2008 industry-changing Perfumes: The A-Z Guide, and in the first two weeks of its release the internet has been flooded with smiles, laughter, tears and tantrums. So, what is it all about?

Monday, 2 July 2018

SP PARFUMS by Sven Pritzkoleit

There is no doubt that the “niche” fragrance market is an exciting, if perilous, place to be at the moment. Anyone can set themselves up as a “perfumer” and attach a price tag to warrant an “exclusivity”, but it’s increasingly difficult to navigate through the new launches. One man who has been creating since 2006, and most definitely deserves to be more widely known, is Sven Pritzkoleit of SP Parfums. He was described by Luca Turin as having a “beguiling combination of directness and skill” and, with seventeen fragrances currently available, shows no signs of slowing down. So, let me introduce you to my favorites.

Thursday, 30 March 2017

My Fragrance Foundation Scent Memories


The Fragrance Foundation was formed in 1946 by six of the largest perfume companies of the period. Chanel, Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, Coty, Guerlain and Parfums Weil agreed that the time had come to recognise the many achievements in the fragrance industry and later on also provide training for consultants, journalists and marketing departments. This greater understanding allowed the industry to develop and grow into the huge machine that it is today. As part of their commitment they also introduced #ScentMemories which runs alongside National Fragrance Day. It brings together peoples memories on the subject of fragrance and I’ve happily contributed for the last two years, although the recolections were very different.

Monday, 26 December 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - FOUR OF THE BEST


This final week before the start of a new year is always a little bit of a “limbo land” for perfume articles. Everyone has so many other things to do during these final seven days but, in case you are looking for something to read this week, I’ve gone through the past twelve months of “Stephan’s Six” interviews and picked my favourite four. There were over forty this year to choose from, ranging from perfumers to painters, and picking between them was difficult because they were all different and fascinating in their own ways. So, I hope you enjoy my “best of” selection from “Stephan’s Six”.

Thursday, 22 December 2016

If You Can't Say Anything Nice...


One of the reasons that I started my website on 5th May 2015 was as an attempt to put some fun back into the online fragrance world. By this I mean that some bloggers had decided that they would make it their mission to be as vindictive and cutting as possible, thereby single-handedly attempting to destroy a perfume before it even had a chance to gain a foothold. After working in various parts of the fragrance industry I thought this was a very narrow minded approach and, when some of these perfume companies are also family run enterprises, potentially catastrophic. So, what gives bloggers the right to criticise a perfume?

Monday, 22 August 2016

Happy Birthday INSOLENCE

It’s hard to believe that it’s ten years since the world was first dominated by Guerlain’s iris and violet fragrance bomb. To some it was a new interpretation of the classic L’Heure Bleue whilst to others it was seen as a link between Guerlain's expanding “travel exclusive” range and the boutique customers. Either way, 2006 marked the launch of a fragrance which took department stores and boutiques by storm. You couldn't escape any beauty hall without being sprayed with Insolence and so it was easier to just succumb to the “overdosed, high-voltage” pink explosion, and once smelled it could never be forgotten.

Monday, 20 June 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - LUCA TURIN


The subject of Chandler Burr's The Emperor of Scent, Luca Turin is a biophysicist with a love of all things olfactive. He started his famous perfume column for NZZ Folio in 2003 and was immediately respected for his honesty. With words that can cut you down to size, but still winking at the same time, he is a popular speaker and writer. When someone has spent thirteen years discussing perfume, I wondered what more we would learn during the Emperor's "Stephan's Six"?

Thursday, 9 June 2016

Agatha Christie - The Scent Of Murder

Fragrance has always been regarded as one of the best triggers for our memories, but we sometimes forget just how much trouble it can get us into as well. Perfume on a collar, whisky on your breath, cigarette smoke in the air. One lady who put fragrance to full use was the Queen of Crime, Agatha Christie. In three of her books it is the scent, and even the lack of it, that helps Poirot's "little grey cells" to solve the mystery. With "scented" book suggestions by Agatha Christie expert John Curran, along with contributions from Nick Gilbert, Odette Toilette and Luca Turin, let's look at those stories and, alongside a perfume suggestion for each crime, we'll investigate the Scent of Murder!

Monday, 14 March 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - CHANDLER BURR


Chandler Burr, born in Chicago and raised in Washington, began his journalism career in 1987, but it was his book The Emperor of Scent which brought him to the attention of perfume fans around the world. As a result, from August 2006 until the end of 2010, Chandler was perfume critic for the New York Times before leaving to create the Department of Olfactory Art at the Museum of Arts and Design in New York City. Now, he said that he wanted his answers to "Stephan's Six" to be "super short", and indeed they are. So, hold on tight because they come thick and fast!