Showing posts with label YSL. Show all posts
Showing posts with label YSL. Show all posts

Monday, 3 April 2023

STEPHAN'S SIX - NEIL CHAPMAN

A picture of Neil Chapman (aka Black Narcissus) taken by Duncan Hume

It’s time for the second of my lost pandemic interviews, and this time it’s from early 2021 when we seemed to be ricocheting between lockdowns and restrictions. Neil Chapman, aka The Black Narcissus, is a renowned perfume reviewer and writer, and also the author of Perfume: In Search Of Your Signature Scent. We managed to arrange an e-meet and, two years later, it’s time to finally share the fragranced memories and recommendations that he revealed during his “Stephen’s Six”.

Monday, 3 May 2021

The SEASONAL SCENTS SUBSCRIPTION BOX from The Perfume Society

The way that fragrances are categorised can often be one of the main factors when it comes to deciding whether to purchase the latest release or not. This is because we all like shortcuts to finding our favourite scent, and we hope that it will save us costly mistakes. However, if you think of male versus female, citrus versus woody, or even niche versus commercial, then you’ll realise just how broad these categorises can be. With retail only just starting to get going again, and many people still reliant on home discovery, this is what makes The Seasonal Scents Subscription Box a welcome addition for fragrance fans.

Monday, 5 April 2021

STEPHAN'S SIX - MONICA MANCINI


Described by The New York Times as “the glamorous vocal equivalent to diamonds flashing,” Monica Mancini is a double Grammy Award nominee. Daughter to the legendary film composer Henry Mancini, she has gone on to release five albums that truly are the perfect soundtrack to the imminent lazy summer days. So, put your feet up, grab a glass of wine, and discover Monica’s fragrance memories during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 22 April 2019

STEPHAN'S SIX - AMANDA BEADLE


A career in accountancy was not what Amanda Beadle originally envisaged for herself. A dream of going to art school was put to one side and a “sensible” job was encouraged instead. Many years later Amanda returned to her artistic roots, both as a painter and a perfumer, and went on to win the 2018 Art and Olfaction Artisan Award for her debut fragrance, Chienoir. So, after creating for others, it’s time to discover her own fragrance memories during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 13 August 2018

STEPHAN'S SIX - TANIA SANCHEZ


One half of the formidable duo behind Perfumes: The Guide 2018, Tania Sanchez is a writer and editor now based in Greece. After growing up in California East Bay, Tania moved to London to co-author the first perfume book, Perfumes: The A-Z Guide, with Luca Turin. Now married to the “Emperor of Scent”, and with a style that is arrow-head sharp, I wondered what we would find out about Tania’s own perfume memories during “Stephan’s Six?”

Monday, 21 May 2018

STEPHAN'S SIX - SVEN PRITZKOLEIT


After studying to become a pharmacist in the family business, Sven Pritzkoleit also realised a long-standing fascination with perfumery. Many years of trial and error, studying and creating, and learning about the raw materials of scent ultimately resulted in critically acclaimed fragrances under the name of SP Parfums. With praise from the industry and fans alike, and also recent collaborations with Miguel Magos and Zooloigst, I thought it was time to find out about Sven’s own fragrance memories during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 26 February 2018

STEPHAN'S SIX - PIA LONG


Originally from Finland, Pia started her UK adventure working for Elizabeth Arden before training in perfumery. An eye for detail and a nose for success saw her move to Lush Cosmetics where she created HQ/29 High Street, “the smell of a lush shop in a bottle”. After moves to Equinox Aromas and Orchadia, Pia launched Olfiction in July 2016, which is described as “the hub for all things fragrance”. With a rich background in fragrance, what would she reveal about her own scented memories during “Stephan’s Six”?

Monday, 23 October 2017

STEPHAN'S SIX - LEANNE HIRSH


Leanne Hirsh is the co-founder of Perfumera Curandera, a natural fragrance company based in Malibu. She started her career as a makeup artist working with the likes of Vivienne Westwood and David Bailey before launching Hirsh Skincare at Bergdorf Goodman in 1998. With contributions to Vogue, Tatler and Vanity Fair, I wondered what perfume secrets she would reveal about herself during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 18 September 2017

STEPHAN'S SIX - MATTHEW AXE


Originally from Suffolk, Matthew Axe studied Graphic Design before going on to work with companies such as Thomas Pink, John Lewis and Gieves & Hawkes. After relocating to New York he was Creative Director on Martha Stewart’s award-wining magazine, Martha Stewart Living, and regularly oversees campaigns in the beauty industry. Recently working on Jo Malone’s Basil & Neroli launch, I wondered what would he reveal about his own perfume favourites during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 8 May 2017

STEPHAN'S SIX - TESSA WILLIAMS


Tessa Williams is the author of Cult Perfumes, which looks at the releases and history of the boutique perfumeries. Alongside launching her own fragrance range, Tessa is a journalist who was written for Vogue and The Times, amongst others. At home with being the interviewer, I thought it was time the tables were turned as I asked her “Stephan’s Six”?

Thursday, 4 May 2017

The Age Of Transparency

"Transparency" is a word that you often hear mentioned when it comes to the perfume industry. For many years perfume houses would release fragrances under their own name, or assign them to an in-house "nose", when they had actually been created by an outside company. This wasn't done maliciously; it was just the way the industry worked. Customers were not particularly interested in who had made the juice in the bottle, just that it came with their favourite company's logo on the glass. Of course there had always been fans that wanted to know every detail but it’s only recently that "transparency" has become the industry's key word.

Monday, 10 April 2017

STAR MAGNOLIA - Jo Malone's Spring Blossom

It’s blossom time again for Jo Malone London! A now regular tradition for the company, the limited edition Spring/Summer floral immediately follows their Brit Collection every year. This time it’s the turn of Star Magnolia, which promises to be “flirtatious, pristine and gleaming”. The company has once again turned to Anne Flipo of IFF to create this “tantalising” bloom in the hope that it will mirror the success of last year’s Nashi Blossom by Fabrice Pellegrin. Having already created their 2016 Herb Garden collection, as well as Basil & Neroli, Anne understands the style but how would she fare with this Shanghai floral?

Monday, 21 November 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - JANE MONHEIT


Jane Monheit was described by the New York Times as having "a voice of phenomenal beauty", and anyone that has heard her will definitely agree. A graduate of the Manhattan School of Music, she released her first album, Never Never Land, in 2000 and it took the industry by storm. Twelve albums later I thought it was about time that we found out about her scented history during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 24 October 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - JO FAIRLEY


When Jo left school at sixteen with six ‘O’ levels she knuckled down, worked hard, and became the youngest-ever UK magazine editor when she joined Look Now at twenty-three. Alongside that she had always had a love of fragrance, and so it seemed inevitable that Jo would go on to co-found The Perfume Society with Lorna McKay. After winning a Jasmine Award for her fragrant writing, I thought it was time that we turned the tables and discovered her scented secrets during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 4 April 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - NICK GILBERT


Many people that work within the perfume industry claim to be experts. Whether it’s perfume composition, creation or reviews their knowledge can sometimes be looked on as questionable. One person who this doesn't apply to is Nick Gilbert. He previously worked for Penhaligon’s as their Training and Development Manager before becoming freelance, and is also one half of @fragrantreviews which publish twitter’s best 140 word perfume reviews. So, with all of this in mind what would Nick Gilbert make of “Stephan’s Six”?

Monday, 7 March 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - JANE DALY


One of the most influential beauty bloggers, Jane Daly started her career in Canadian real estate before switching to perfume and cosmetics. After many years of advising her friends she decided to launch her own beauty website offering fun, facts and fascinating finds. So, I thought it was time to learn a little bit more about Jane Daly for a change, and arranged to ask her "Stephan's Six".

Monday, 15 February 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - BUNNY GALORE


No-one really knows how old the ageing actress Bunny Galore is, but what we do known is that she was thrown out of the Rank Charm School for padding her bra and to a generation of young adolescents she was the girl next door. In her varied career she has appeared in film and tv, from Muffin the Mule to Hammer Horror, and is now a regular weekly performer at London's Wam Bam Club. Well known for her acerbic wit, it was with some trepidation that I dared to ask her "Stephan's Six".

Thursday, 31 December 2015

Guerlain, YSL and Penhaligon's - The Accountant Effect

As we take our first steps into a new year it's customary to look back on the previous twelve months and celebrate successes, whilst saying goodbye to failures. Well, the perfume industry is no different. The list of new releases gets longer every year and so casualties are inevitable. When decisions are made commercially, rather than artistically, love goes out of the window. With accountants entrusted to make the choices, is it true that
"when love goes wrong, nothing goes right"?

There has always been a rush to copy successful perfumes or styles, but when a marketplace gets flooded with them then it is inevitable that the original will be the one to survive. The accountant’s spreadsheet will always aim to end in the black, but when commercialism starts to fight against a brand’s heritage, or the public’s expectations, then it can quickly spiral down into the red. Yves Saint Laurent, Guerlain and Penhaligon’s have all fallen foul to this trend during 2015, and whilst there’s light at the end of the tunnel the journey is far from over.

Saturday, 24 October 2015

Lizzie Ostrom's Century Of Scents

When Lizzie Ostrom (aka Odette Toilette) first told me that she was writing a book about perfume I remember thinking, how will you get the character of this eccentric into print? Lizzie is anything but predictable, and she has made her reputation by taking perfume and turning it on its head. Anyone who has witnessed her in action knows that her quirky style and approachable manner is what keeps you coming back for more. So, would this translate into print? There have many dry, dusty and pretentious books about perfume over the years which use language that even Countdown's Dictionary Corner would struggle with, but this is not one of them.