To say that 2020 has been a difficult year would be an understatement. Along with every other industry, the plans that perfume companies had in place all needed to be adapted or dropped, and a necessity for operating “in the moment” became imperative. One of the areas that was most impacted were the summer-inspired releases that always accompany the warmer months. With shops closed, a lack of testers available to try, and money becoming tight, many didn't seem to arrive. One company that did offer some respite to the dark clouds though was 1000 Flowers, and their Pétales Sous Le Soleil provides some much needed escape.
It’s always very difficult to pin down the seasons, especially with the current unexpected variations in temperature, but there is one annual fragrance release that definitely makes it feel like spring has arrived. Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria range has earned a reputation for lifting us out of the winter blues and hinting at the warmth that is to come, and this year there are three to choose from. Flora Cherrysia, Ginger Piccante, and Coconut Fizz join the existing lineup and perfectly compliment the ten already on offer. Created by Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk, let’s see what Guerlain has created for 2019.
When it comes to recommending fragrances for Valentine’s Day it seems that the emphasis is well and truly on gifting for ladies rather than gifting for men. Many magazines will choose their favourite women’s scents but what about those that need to buy for the man in their life? Well, this year I’ve chosen five scents for you to pick from and, with three of them available on the high street, there’s easily something for everyone. None of these are technically “new” releases, but they might be new to you. So, for Valentine’s Day 2019, it’s time to say hello to Guerlain, Penhaligon's, Bella Bellissima, Chanel, and 4160 Tuesdays.
One of the challenges faced by companies when introducing a new fragrance is ensuring that it doesn’t conflict with an existing release. One way around this is to create “capsule collections” and one of the masters of this is undoubtedly Guerlain, but even they occasionally have to reposition their fragrances. This happened with their Les Déserts d’Orient and Les Absolus d’Orient collections because both exhibited similar styles. When Les Déserts d’Orient was retired it was also thought that its fragrances had also gone, but they have just been rereleased in the Absolus series. So, it’s time to rediscover Encens Mythique.
It’s like the quest for the Holy Grail. Perfume collectors are constantly searching for a lost fragrance, a “vintage” formulation, or even a different edition of an original bottle. While the latter doesn’t pose too much of an issue, the first two can be problematic to say the very least. Everything gets older, including me, and it’s this ageing process that can have profound effects upon your “vintage” scent. What you end up buying may smell wonderfully resinous, with vanilla laden qualities, and have a depth of richness that is missing in current fragrances, but are you smelling what the perfumer really intended?
It’s that special time of year again when Guerlain launches its latest Aqua Allegoria and this year it has gone in a decidedly more fruity direction. Passiflora, which is also known as Passion Flower, is the name of the 2018 creation by Thierry Wasser but the fragrance is much more about the fruit than the flower. It is described as “the spirit of passion fruit with an aquatic note” and is designed to be “invigorating, sunny and spontaneous.” So, with the Aqua Allegoria range now numbering ten, and competition for spaces relaxed at least for this year, let’s see just how Passiflora fits into the expanded lineup.
It’s a common enough expression and one that seems to be particularly apt in the current perfume market when applied to sales assistants, “everything but the kitchen sink.” In a drive to arm employees with all of the necessary information to sell their latest blockbuster, companies have increasingly passed on information in a “quantity” approach as opposed to “quality”. The details of fragrance ingredients used to be a closely guarded secret but the arrival of the internet and social media blew that wide open. So, in an ever-competitive market, and with “transparency” still the key word, what information actually helps your perfume choices?
February is usually the month that we end up mourning the loss of one of Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria range. The yearly discontinuation of one fragrance to make way for a new scent is usually met with mixed reactions, but the series always needed to remain at the accepted five and choices had to be made. This year marks a major break in tradition however with Guerlain not only keeping the current five and adding a new one but also reissuing another four from the Aqua Allegoria archives. So, let me show you the four have come out of retirement to make the new collection of ten, and see if one of them is an old favourite.
We’ve arrived at the “four days to go” mark and the grand panic will start to begin for many festive shoppers. Christmas Day comes at the same time every year, but every year people seem to get caught out. Internet shopping is a big mistake this late in the day, whatever the companies may promise, and so it’s time to fall back on the tried and trusted high street department stores. You need to say farewell to any prospect of a niche offering and embrace the best of the mainstream. To help you out I’ve chosen four that are guaranteed to put a smile on any recipient’s face. Let’s go shopping!
Summer means one thing in the world of Guerlain, time to refocus on the new Aqua Allegoria fragrance. The idea of sunshine in a bottle is the cornerstone of the company’s seasonal release and this year is no exception. Bergamote Calabria is the creation of Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk, who now co-sign the majority of fragrances that come from this historic house. Bergamote Calabria originally launched back in February but Aqua Allegorias really come into their own as the weather gets warmer, and as we grab something at Duty Free. So, what does this new release have to offer?
When Guerlain launched the L’Art et la Matière series in 2005 it was a capsule collection of three scents. Originally conceived as a way of showcasing a star ingredient, the concept was to celebrate the artistry of the perfumer by focusing on the way that they used the material. Technically the first commercially available “exclusive” range from the brand, it set the benchmark for the collections that would follow. With the release of Joyeuse Tubéreuse the L’Art et la Matière series now has nine members, having said goodbye to Iris Ganache and Myrrhe & Delires, but what does the latest addition add to the collection?
It happens every year but it never gets any easier. I’m talking about the annual discontinuation of one of Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria range. Since the series first appeared in 1999 the collection has seen many fragrances come and go, but it is still a surprise when the final cut is made. Sometimes the choice is made based on sales figures, sometimes due to trend, but occasionally the decision leaves everyone surprised. In 2014 Guerlain introduced Limon Verde to the Aqua Allegoria range but it leaves the collection this year to make way for Bergamote Calabria. So, what is the history of this caipirinha explosion?
When Sylvaine Delacourte announced in October 2016 that she would be launching her own perfume company the fragrance industry let out an audible gasp. Since 2006 she had been Director of Fragrance Evaluation and Development for Guerlain and had steered the company from an historical house to a commercial perfumer. Some of her directions and choices met with mixed responses but Guerlain was again becoming known to regular perfume customers. Her first collection of fragrances, LA COLLECTION MUSCS, offers five interpretations of this main ingredient, but is it enough to sustain a whole range?
The perfume industry is the same as any other industry in the twenty first century, it has to move quickly and follow trends. Yes, there are some companies who actively try to go head to head with customer’s expectations and these are to be applauded. They offer a beacon in a sea of similarity but in all honesty, and I know that I will get shouted at for saying this, is there really a problem with companies taking the lead off their competitors? The powerhouse that is Lancôme’s La Vie Est Belle has spawned multiple “homages” but so did Chanel’s No.5. So, are we being too harsh on an industry where being "on trend" is nothing new?
Unless you've been living in a cave you can't have failed to see that Guerlain has launched a new fragrance, Mon Guerlain. It had a worldwide release on 1st March 2017 and, although some stores did start a little early, it is the company's biggest profile campaign, and the most structured, since the La Petite Robe Noire franchise began back in 2012. The history of Mon Guerlain has much in common with La Petite Robe Noire and, understandably, Guerlain hope that it will also emulate its success. So, with a high profile worldwide release, can Guerlain re-establish itself as the premier fragrance house?
The first fragrance can be a make or break moment for any perfume company, but it can also be the same for a new perfumer. When Guerlain launched Idylle in 2009 it was the first release that was created by Thierry Wasser in his new position as in-house perfumer for the company. His previous three fragrances, Iris Ganache, Quand Vient la Pluie and Guerlain Homme, had been created whilst he was working for Firmenich, but Idylle was released under his own name. It would eventually be joined by three variations, Duet Rose-Patchouli, Eau Sublime and Duet Jasmin-Lilas, but it is the second one that I’m going to revisit.
The stock room floor is usually littered with boxes at this time of the year with "recall" written on them. In order for a company to make room for its latest fragrance another may have to go. This is always the way with Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria scents. Sometimes decisions are based on sales, sometimes on trends, and sometimes we struggle to work out what the reason is. This was how many people felt when Guerlain's Nerolia Bianca left the range in 2015. It was ultimately replaced by the short-lived Teazzurra and the question remains, did Guerlain lose one of Thierry Wasser's finest creations?
Everyone talks about scent bringing back memories but this week it was a painting that triggered my recollection of a Guerlain classic. I’ve started renovating part of my house and this included taking out a built-in wardrobe. It was a typical nineties “Changing Rooms” style construction built of four-by-four and MDF, but what was hidden behind it really took me back. The wall was decorated with painted dolphins, so obviously it used to be a child’s room, and straight away I started to think about Petit Guerlain, which was released in 1994. So, let’s go back twenty two years and rediscover Guerlain’s innocence.
From PR to Prime Time, Dave Lackie’s career has taken him around the world in search of the best beauty products. I caught up with him before he headed to Mexico, and Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps retrospective, to find out the perfume secrets of the Canadian King of Beauty during another “Stephan’s Six”.
When Guerlain launched La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche in 2015 everyone presumed that the wardrobe was complete. That fourth release, or sixth depending on how you're counting, was a "fresh" interpretation and complimented the other three. However, just when Guerlain fans breathed a collective sigh of relief William Lescure, president of Guerlain Canada, dropped the bombshell that there was an exclusive "sweeter" version on the horizon, but it soon became clear that it would actually be a worldwide release. The new edition, La Petite Robe Noire Intense, is really good, but then I've been enjoying it for four years already!
