KING'S SALUTE by Grossmith London

Fragrance and nobility have long enjoyed a close relationship. Perfume has been associated with wealth, ceremony and the art of making an impression, so it's hardly surprising that royalty has inspired special creations. From Guerlain’s Shalimar, with its associations to an Indian emperor’s love story, to Creed’s Royal Princess Oud, inspired by royal elegance, fragrance can capture a world beyond the everyday. Sometimes the inspiration is a person, a place or a moment in history, and the stories we attach to them. For Grossmith, this connection with royalty is part of its own story, and continues with King’s Salute.

Founded in London by John Grossmith in 1835, Grossmith became a leading name in British perfumery. Under his son, John Lipscomb Grossmith, the business expanded, developing a range of perfumes, soaps and toiletries. Fragrances such as Hasu-no-Hana, Phul-Nana and Shem-el-Nessim became important to its heritage. The company was known for its creativity and willingness to look beyond familiar floral perfumes, creating richer compositions inspired by travel and different cultures. After a period away from the family, Grossmith was revived in 2006 by descendants of its founder, who returned to the original formula books to bring historic fragrances back to life.

Royal connections were important to Grossmith long before King’s Salute arrived. In 1893, Betrothal was created to celebrate the engagement and marriage of the Duke of York and Princess May, who would become King George V and Queen Mary. Four years later, Victorian Bouquet marked Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee and was promoted as “The National Perfume”. In 1902, Regal was launched to celebrate the coronation of King Edward VII. These were more than fragrances with grand names. Each was tied to a royal occasion, giving perfume a place in the story of the monarchy. Grossmith’s modern Royal Collection continues that tradition today.

King’s Salute is the third fragrance in Grossmith’s modern Royal Collection. Launched on Coronation Day, it celebrates King Charles III’s passion for plants and gardening, particularly at Highgrove. Lavender and thyme grow there, and both play central roles in the fragrance. Grossmith’s history is relevant too, as lavender has a long association with their perfume heritage, and I like the way these ideas come together. Rather than simply marking a royal occasion, Grossmith has drawn on the King’s interests and a particular place, giving King’s Salute a story rooted in the natural world as well as royal tradition.

The fragrance opens brightly with bergamot and black pepper making their presence immediately known, before the first touches of the star aromatic ingredients arrive. The lavender and thyme pairing provide a purple herbaceous quality that has a slightly ceremonial metallic edge, possibly from a touch of neroli, before a green aspect is added thanks to the edgy cardamom. This opening is gloriously vibrant, but there is a surprise waiting to reveal itself. The development of King’s Salute sees the established fougere base coming through, with notes of resinous labdanum, earthy patchouli, and a decadent oakmoss, but it’s added to by powdery iris and the imaginative scent of cashmere. These two ingredients create the effect of the famous fur-lined robes, before a final amber accord hints at the mystical anointing oil. King’s Salute feels beautiful polished without being overly formal.

King's Salute is available from the Grossmith website at grossmithlondon.com, and also Les Senteurs, priced at £230 for 50ml and £330 for 100ml. [Sample provided by Grossmith London]