What makes an interesting and original perfume? It’s the question that I get asked most often, and one that companies constantly strive to realise in every new release. In a market that is over-saturated with launches, and chock-a-block with “trends” that often seem to merely be a rehash of previous ideas, uncovering that elusive point of difference is vital if your perfume is going to stand out from the competition. One of the ways that a new slant can be thrown on scent is when its country of origin is not what you’d expect, and that’s exactly what’s on offer with Printemps from Organ Tale.
The second perfume that a company releases is often the hardest to truly crack, because you’re riding on the success of the first but trying to stretch your creative horizons. Finding the middle ground in the battle between being too safe and too divergent becomes the scented goal. There have been many examples of the follow-up fragrance not hitting the mark, and so hearing that Leonie Sherif was releasing Twilight, her second fragrance, brought feelings of excitement and trepidation in equal measure. This songbird is no stranger to experimenting with musical chords, but would the perfumed ones be just as accommodating?
Whether you’re thinking about music, film, theatre or perfume, there are certain examples in every genre that demand to be referenced as the ultimate interpretation. This can be because they have captured the public’s imagination, maybe won the applause of the critics, but ultimately they stand alone on a pedestal. When it comes to perfume, there is arguably only one ingredient that truly bucks this trend. Oud has been a mainstay of the fragrance market since 2007, but its tenacity has made it challenging for many. It would take fourteen years for its heart to be truly revealed, and that was in Silky Woods from Goldfield & Banks.
Alternative spins on established styles are one way that the perfume industry continues to reinvent itself with each new release. Whether this is a particular fragrance family, a worldwide bestseller, or even a specific ingredient focus, it’s the new presentation of something which has a familiarity that often grabs the attention of customers above a wholly new idea. There are few perfume inspirations that haven’t been done in one way or another other in the past, but the new Artemis from Soki London absolutely lives up to the well-known adage that “if you go down to the woods today, you’re sure of a big surprise.”
When we talk about luxury fragrances the focus is often firmly fixed on the rarity of ingredients, the limited quantity produced, and even the perfumer behind the scent. It all goes to create that appearance of luxury, and to explain the price that is usually attached to the perfume. However, the other way to simulate luxury is to align with an existing luxurious product. Whether that’s a celebrity, a destination, or a clothing brand, their kudos brings an established and dedicated following. This was the route that Bentley took when they entered the perfume market, and their latest fragrance Become continues the experience.
January is the perfect time to take a pause after the madness of Christmas and hunker down before the deluge of new perfumes start coming at us like cabs off a rank. In the never-ending quest for increased sales and contented customers, the big brands are gearing up to build on the successes of 2024 with the latest flanker and hottest trend, but there are also some hidden gems out there that are waiting to be rediscovered. So, we’re heading to the high street to spend some time with Elizabeth Arden, and perhaps even introduce you to your new perfume in the form of White Tea Eau de Parfum.
The first perfume a company releases is often the fragrance that the creator has wanted to realise their whole life - whether that's the embodiment of a person, a place, or an emotive experience. It’s the releases that follow however that can cause the issues. Will the second, third or fourth be met with the same response, and is the inspiration strong enough? When Charles Wong launched Aurora back in 2019 he started gently but, over the following two fragrances, has grown in both scented drama and luxurious subjects. The fourth perfume in the collection takes us to the South East of France, and is as beautiful as its inspiration.
Twelve months is a long time in the world of perfume, where fragrance trends really can change overnight depending on the latest celebrity or influencer endorsement, but the quality of the launches this year has been incredible. We were treated to a real resurgence of violet, with the ingredient appearing in many successful releases, and also a happily renewed interest in the independent side of the industry. So, as we approach the end of 2024, it’s time to look back at twelve months of reviews on stephanmatthews.com and, while once again channelling my inner Blyton, pick My Favourite Five.
There are certain perfume brands that, happily for fragrance fans around the world, stay true to their original inspiration and ethos. It’s very easy for companies to swerve off in varying directions once their name is known, but this can lead to confusion amongst followers and uncertainty for new disciples. You'll have heard the old adage that “familiarity breeds contempt”, but in the world of fragrance it’s actually something to be respected and admired. Sarah Baker Perfumes launched with a promise to bring some Hollywood glamour to scent, often through literary inspirations, and this holds true with her new Peach’s Revenge.
