There are certain perfume brands that, happily for fragrance fans around the world, stay true to their original inspiration and ethos. It’s very easy for companies to swerve off in varying directions once their name is known, but this can lead to confusion amongst followers and uncertainty for new disciples. You'll have heard the old adage that “familiarity breeds contempt”, but in the world of fragrance it’s actually something to be respected and admired. Sarah Baker Perfumes launched with a promise to bring some Hollywood glamour to scent, often through literary inspirations, and this holds true with her new Peach’s Revenge.
The first perfume a company releases is often the fragrance that the creator has wanted to realise their whole life - whether that's the embodiment of a person, a place, or an emotive experience. It’s the releases that follow however that can cause the issues. Will the second, third or fourth be met with the same response, and is the inspiration strong enough? When Charles Wong launched Aurora back in 2019 he started gently but, over the following two fragrances, has grown in both scented drama and luxurious subjects. L’Été à la Villa Ephrussi is the fourth perfume in the collection, and is as beautiful as its inspiration.
Niche perfumery, artisan perfumery, independent perfumery - whichever term you prefer, it’s impossible to ignore the contribution that these make to the fragrance market. They have the ability to ignore high-street trends, because they're often produced in much smaller quantities, so the customer gets to experience scent styles they won’t find in the larger department stores. One of these independent companies is Orosmo Perfumery, and their two collections offer a wonderful insight into how “niche can be wearable”. So, with summer approaching, let’s head to the sea with the wonderfully aquatic Au Bord de la Mer.
Would you be brave enough to translate your innermost memories, or even your secret places, into scent? It’s a question that many new brands ask themselves when they are thinking of launching, but often they’ll opt for more pedestrian inspirations instead. Releasing a fragrance to the world is one thing, but sharing your soul adds another layer. If the perfume isn’t well received, how does that reflect upon your experiences? When Frances Lamb launched Teniqua it was exactly this route that she went down, but thankfully with universal praise. Tides of Love sees her swap memories for places, and the result is an absolute joy.
The scent of the sea has been a fragrance trend that, whilst arguably exemplified by the classic L'eau d'Issey pour Homme, continues to be experimented with constantly by perfume houses around the world. This idea of capturing the aroma, the feel, and the look of the ocean has been presented in many forms, but not all of them have managed to capture both the majesty alongside the delicacy. For the launch of their new eau de toilette, Fragonard have thrown their hat into the ring and introduced a second aquatic fragrance to their male range, and it’s a celebration in the form of Bleu Riviera by Jordi Fernández.
The world of perfumery is built upon multiple traditions, whether that’s a fragrance's classification or through to those pesky note pyramids, but one of the most obvious is the notion of how people discover a perfume. The majority will still go into a store and smell the latest release on a paper blotter, before taking the plunge and spraying themselves liberally, and this might lead to the gift of a precious 2ml sample from the salesperson. Now this has been the norm for decades, but Artimique is challenging this with her beautiful Heart Charm, and the UK-based Sainte Cellier is backing her every step of the way.
One of the continuing trends in the niche fragrance market is the appearance of the “self-taught perfumer”. Originally you had to go to one of the established perfumery schools, or work under a master perfumer, to perfect your sensory muscles, but all of that has now changed. With the ever-increasing online courses, as well as in-person taster sessions, the secret layers of the industry are being peeled away to allow a more diverse offering to customers who are hungry for originality. Now, the results from self-taught perfumers are very variable, but the release of Soapy Heart by Shloksha shows what’s possible with commitment.
Our lives often seem to be centred around finding “the one”, whether that be the perfect relationship, the ideal job, or your forever home. But the concept of “the one” also extends to perfume. There is still a fashion for hunting out a “signature” scent, that is one that you’ll be instantly recognised for wearing. I’m sure there have been times when you’ve known who is about to walk into the room before you see them because of their fragrance. However, with so many perfumes to choose from, where do you begin? Well, Ruth Mastenbroek has given you the perfect starting point with her aptly named Signature.
