There’s a period in perfumery that is likely to be remembered as the time of missed releases and forgotten fragrances. I’m talking about the very end of 2019 and the beginning of 2020 when, unbeknown to us all, we were heading for a worldwide period of lockdowns and disruption. The companies that launched during these months had contracts cancelled, frustrated customers unable to smell the fragrances, and don’t forget the shortage of alcohol. So, for a new company to keep going was a massive achievement. One example of this is Botani Perfumery who, against the odds, released a beautiful quartet of fragrances.
The meticulous way that a fragrance formula is put together means that the links between science and perfumery are clear to see. So, when Ilyas Kakis swapped a career in research for one in perfume it wasn’t too much of a surprise. With a collection of three fragrances now available, I thought it was time to learn a little more about the man behind Ilya Parfums and ask him “Stephan’s Six.”
The idea of reconnecting with the past is something that has been at the forefront of many people’s minds over the past twelve months. That feeling of travelling back to simpler times, even experiencing the thoughts and feelings of forgotten generations, anything but the uncertainty of modern life. Perfume companies have tried to tap into this concept many times, with everything from the Pharaohs to World Wars, but one of the most ingenious has to be Neandertal. With a nod to the past both visually and sensorially, but celebrating the world around us, the company have created the sensational Neandertal Light.
The idea that our sense of taste is closely linked to our sense of smell is something that is often talked about these days, but it’s still generally confined to food. However, recent years saw the dramatic boom in the fashion for flavoured gins, and these definitely took the limelight away from other equally exciting spirits. One that has been unfairly ignored often evokes stormy nights and is forever associated with Cornwall. I’m talking about rum. One of the newest producers in the UK at the moment is Rosemullion Distillery and so, as a rum lover, I didn’t need to think twice when I was asked to discover their exceptional trio.
Fragrance fans are constantly searching for the next “big hitter” or “must have” scent and, because of this, often forget to look backwards as well as forwards. There are very few genuinely new trends in perfumery, they’ve all been seen before, it’s just the way that they’re presented that is different. However, we seem to be locked into the eternal quest for “newness” and, because of this, can find ourselves overlooking the faded and forgotten gems from another time. One such treasure must surely be 4711 by Mäurer & Wirtz. Arguably the world’s most famous cologne, it’s time this classic was rediscovered by a new generation.
When we hear the word “fragrance” our thoughts instantly turn to the type that gets spritzed out of our favourite perfume bottle. We often forget about the millions of items that also have a scent within them. From fabric conditioner to dishwasher tablets, or shower gel to shampoo, functional products are often made more attractive because of their fragrance. The same goes for your suncream. Often seen as an annoying interruption to getting that all-over tan, it’s time to discover how this vital piece of sun protection can actually be used as your daily perfume, and also learn about Escentual’s #SunPoverty campaign.
If there’s one thing that the past twelve months have taught me it’s that I really do need to reach into the back of my cupboards a little more often. We all have a tendency to focus on what’s right in front of our noses, quite literally with perfume, and so often miss the treasures that are hiding in the shadows. New purchases are placed at the front and old favourites get forgotten. This became clear when I was having a rummage recently and came across a 2014 bottle of pure delight. So, after seven years of waiting patiently, it’s time to rediscover the exquisite magic of Divine L’éternel Féminin by Richard Ibanez.
As much as we try not to be influenced by the box or the bottle that a fragrance comes in, sometimes it’s just impossible not to be swayed by appearance. Obviously the ultimate test is when the perfume is sprayed onto the skin, but any kind of extra persuasion that gets you to spritz a new scent is invaluable for any new company. The colour of a box can often be the first thing that grabs your attention, and that is especially true of Cécile from the British company To The Fairest. Sporting a blue jacket that could have walked off the Farrow & Ball colour chart, I was mesmerised before I had even smelled the scent.
