Showing posts with label Guerlain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Guerlain. Show all posts

Monday, 26 May 2025

SOLEIL LUNAR by Lalique

A bottle of the perfume Soleil Lunar by Lalique
There's a big push at the moment for simplistic designs and uniformity across the fragrances offered by perfume brands. With the bottles remaining constant, it’s often just the label that changes. While the bottle clearly won’t affect the fragrance inside, the pleasure of holding a sculptural item in your hand definitely accentuates the act of applying your favourite perfume. Some bottles are iconic, think of Guerlain’s Shalimar or Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male, and they certainly played a part in their legendary status. Bringing scent and design together is a definite skill, and that can absolutely be said of Soleil Lunar by Lalique.

Monday, 24 February 2025

TWILIGHT by Sense 'N'

A bottle of the perfume Twilight by Leonie Sherif Sense 'N'
The second perfume that a company releases is often the hardest to truly crack, because you’re riding on the success of the first but trying to stretch your creative horizons. Finding the middle ground in the battle between being too safe and too divergent becomes the scented goal. There have been many examples of the follow-up fragrance not hitting the mark, and so hearing that Leonie Sherif was releasing Twilight, her second fragrance, brought feelings of excitement and trepidation in equal measure. This songbird is no stranger to experimenting with musical chords, but would the perfumed ones be just as accommodating?

Monday, 11 November 2024

Fragrance: From Plant To Perfume

The book cover for Fragrance: From Plant To Perfume Samuel Gearing, Josh Carter and Kew Gardens
Are you a bibliophile, a bibliophage or a reader? The joy of disappearing into a book is something that the world rediscovered during the years of lockdown and, forgiving the slight downturn as the world reopened, has remained strong during 2024. New authors come and go, new subjects are touted as the next new thing, but there are some book categories that remain solid sellers. Perfume and horticulture are two such topics, which does beg the question, “why has it taken so long to combine them into the perfect coffee table tome?” Well, the wait is finally over as we welcome Fragrance: From Plant To Perfume.

Monday, 28 October 2024

LA MUSIQUE DE CHRISTIE by Eight & Bob

A bottle of the perfume La Musique de Christie by Eight & Bob
With the similarity between music and perfume, it’s no surprise that the former often acts as inspiration for the latter. I’ve talked before about the crossover of “notes” and “chords”, and even the array of ingredient bottles being described as a perfumer’s “organ”, and so it’s always fun to find a new fragrance that takes up the thread. Perfumes have been inspired by specific pieces of music, or particular pop bands, but an operatic season is a slightly different approach. Eight & Bob have taken the world-famous Glyndebourne Festival as their starting point, and the resulting La Musique de Christie hits all of the right notes.

Monday, 16 September 2024

HASU-NO-HANA by Grossmith

A bottle and box for the perfume Hasu-no-Hana by Grossmith
Having an established history and a worldwide reputation is not always a guarantee of success for a perfume house, especially if it’s one that was revived after a period of dormancy. Living up to the memories of customers who may, without actually realising it, be recalling scents in a far-from-true form can often prove difficult to navigate. However, when it’s done right, it can prove to be a diamond in a sea of commercial beige. One such perfume house is Grossmith who, after a period in the wilderness solely surviving on novelty soap, was reborn as the luxury brand that it always was and which it truly deserves to remain.

Monday, 4 March 2024

ENGLISH CHERRY BLOSSOM by Shay & Blue

A bottle of the perfume English Cherry Blossom from Shay & Blue
There are few things in life that you can be truly sure of, with the exception of the changing seasons. However, with the continuing issues around climate change, even these are getting a little out of kilter. Though the start and end dates might now seem to vary from year to year, the order at least remains the same. Most people take summer to be season one, followed by autumn and winter, but by spring we’re all definitely ready for a little hint of returning sunshine. That’s why spring is the perfect time to reach for a much-needed bottle of blossom, and you can’t go far wrong with English Cherry Blossom from Shay & Blue.

Monday, 4 September 2023

MAGIC + SCIENCE by Thursday Fragrance

A bottle of the perfume Magic + Science from Thursday Fragrance
Anybody that launches a new perfume brand in the current climate either needs a huge round of applause for throwing all of their common sense out of the window, or a serious talking to about the inevitable pitfalls that they will experience. However, when a person’s passion to create bubbles to the surface, it’s often impossible not to follow that dream. You obviously have a better chance of survival if you study hard and take expert advice, and that’s the case with Thursday Fragrance. One of the latest cabs off the rank in terms of perfume companies, they’ve done their homework, and it shows in their debut trio of scents.

Monday, 21 August 2023

GARRIGUE by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

A bottle of Garrigue perfume by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
There are few things as instantly pleasurable as being confronted with a little piece of French history, especially when it doesn’t come with an auctioneer’s price tag. The act of holding something that harks back to a simpler time, a pre-social media time, is sometimes the much-needed reset that we all crave. Now, achieving this through genuine antiques can be costly, but that’s where companies that use traditional crafts as their inspiration can thrive. Maître Parfumeur et Gantier is one such company, and their grasp of timeless French tradition goes “hand in glove” with what a modern audience is searching for.

Monday, 14 August 2023

STEPHAN'S SIX - JANE JOHNSON

A picture of author Jane Johnson

Disappearing into a book is something that was instilled into me from childhood, and it’s still a wonderful alternative to costly airfares and long journeys. Jane Johnson is a Cornish author who splits her time between Mousehole and Morocco, and is lucky enough to work from home as a Fiction Publishing Director for HarperCollins. Her latest book, The Black Crescent, uses scented descriptions to help conjure emotions and locations, and so it’s the perfect time to discover her own fragrance memories in “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 31 July 2023

STEPHAN'S SIX - DAVID BENEDEK

Photograph of David Benedek, founder of bdk Parfums

Launching a fragrance company is something that isn’t for the faint hearted, but the success of bdk Parfums shows that it’s possible when quality and dedication isn’t compromised. David Benedek founded the company in 2016 with a quintet of fragrances, and the collection now numbers an impressive nineteen. With a family link to fragrance that drew him to create bdk Parfums, I thought it was time to discover David’s scented memories during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 3 July 2023

STEPHAN'S SIX - BROOKE BELLDON

Picture of Brooke Belldon, owner of perfume retailer Sainte Cellier

When Brooke Belldon drew on her long-term passion for fragrance to launch the retail website Sainte Cellier, she quickly gained a reputation for stocking a carefully curated selection of the best that niche perfumery has to offer. Brooke has been a well-known face in the fragrance community for over a decade but, even after becoming a go-to voice for the niche market, still playfully describes herself as “an obsessive collector and enthusiastic student”. With such a wealth of knowledge, it was great to finally sit down with her and discover her scented memories during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 29 May 2023

PHLOEM by JORUM STUDIO

A bottle of Phloem perfume from Jorum Studio
An increasing trend in perfumery in recent years has been the desire to hunt out fragrances based on ingredients rather than the overall composition, so almost the reverse of the well-known saying “the whole is greater than the sum of its parts”. This quest for a specific ingredient can often leave the hunter disappointed, as there are multiple varieties and strengths available to a perfumer, so is this really the best way to choose a scent? Long counters filled with endless choices used to be the norm so, instead of an ingredient-focused approach, are you ready to choose by complementary odour profile instead?

Monday, 15 May 2023

STEPHAN'S SIX - ALEXANDRE HELWANI

A picture of Alexandre Helwani

The world of perfumery is one that can draw an individual in many different directions, and that is certainly true of Alexandre Helwani. He's the founder and lead writer for The Perfume Chronicles, perfumer in his own right, and also the insightful brand ambassador for Histoires de Parfums. However, I thought it was time to dig a little deeper and discover his scented secrets during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 20 March 2023

STEPHAN'S SIX - REBECCA ROSE

Rebecca Rose, the founder of To The Fairest perfume company

The pandemic threw many plans out of the window, and one of these was a new run of the popular “Stephan’s Six” interview series. I recently rediscovered my original notes and so, finally, they can see the light of day. The first of the three is with Rebecca Rose, the founder of To The Fairest. The brand launched in 2019 with the very successful Cécile, but what secrets did Rebecca reveal when we were allowed to meet in 2021?

Monday, 17 October 2022

SHEM-EL-NESSIM by Grossmith

Shem-el-Nessim Perfume Bottle from Grossmith
There aren't many perfume houses that have managed to survive the journey from historic fragrance to mass market crowd pleaser, because these two styles of scent usually resonate with very different groups. The change often happens because of a change in tastes, but it’s the act of recognising this that can mean the difference between a company continuing or closing. Grossmith is an example of a historic company that survived by cleverly switching to post-war fragrance fashions, but their original perfumes really are still the stuff of legend. Remastered and reinvigorated, it’s time to rediscover the iris-laden Shem-el-Nessim.

Monday, 4 July 2022

BEAU DE PROVENCE by Fragonard

Fragonard Beau de Provence Perfume Bottle
The subject of gender in fragrance is something that is still being discussed at length, and it’s just as vocal in the niche sector as it is in the high street. The fragrances that you’ll find in the department stores are clearly split into masculine, feminine and unisex because this helps to guide customers to their “safe” choice. The more independent boutiques will split by fragrance family or style, but this does mean that the customer has to take a much bigger journey of discovery. It’s very hard for established companies to break this cycle, but that is exactly what Fragonard have done with Beau de Provence.

Monday, 11 October 2021

A CLASSIC CANDLE TRIO by Kilted Quarter

There’s nothing I enjoy more than spending an hour or two wandering around the brocante markets in France, and usually coming away with far too many things to fit in my suitcase! So, with travel still a little limited, it’s wonderful that these types of elevated flea markets seem to have really taken off in the UK as well. It’s the excitement of finding the missing piece of a dinner set, a lost childhood memory, or even something that you wonder how you've ever lived without. Kilted Quarter is one of these new UK companies, but they’ve also launched a range of brocante-inspired candles that are guaranteed to have perfume lovers rushing to order.

Monday, 16 August 2021

STEPHAN'S SIX - REBECCA HARRISON


After an impressive career working with some of the world’s finest fragrance and beauty houses, Rebecca Harrison decided that the time was right to launch her own perfume company, Vines House Parfum. Having split her time between Dorset and the southwest of France, the collection drew on the parallels between the wine and fragrance industries, and proved an instant hit with customers that were looking for perfumes with a story. So, as they celebrate their second birthday, I thought it was time to learn a little more about Rebecca during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 19 April 2021

CIEL D'ETÉ by L.T. Piver

Three years ago, almost to the day, I wrote an article about how the ageing process can alter a perfume’s scent. Over time the volatile citruses can thin out, if not disappear completely, and the resinous vanillas and woods can become decidedly richer than was ever intended. Add into the mix storage conditions and you’ll see why perception can become confused. This is why when I saw the discontinued Ciel d'Eté (Summer Sky) by L.T. Piver simply described as “leathery and woody” something didn’t sound right. So, I pulled my cherished bottle out of storage and, for the first time, opened it to the elements. What I smelled was totally unexpected.

Monday, 5 April 2021

STEPHAN'S SIX - MONICA MANCINI


Described by The New York Times as “the glamorous vocal equivalent to diamonds flashing,” Monica Mancini is a double Grammy Award nominee. Daughter to the legendary film composer Henry Mancini, she has gone on to release five albums that truly are the perfect soundtrack to the imminent lazy summer days. So, put your feet up, grab a glass of wine, and discover Monica’s fragrance memories during “Stephan’s Six”.