Stephan Matthews

Monday 21 October 2024

SH**TY DAY by NOYZ

A bottle of the perfume Sh**ty Day from NOYZ

In a world that is dominated by pictures of the perfect body, the most sumptuous living room, or the ideal holiday getaway, it can begin to feel like there is no possible way of measuring up to these often-enhanced images. This important discussion around what real life actually looks like, versus the doctored online perceptions, isn't a subject that you would necessarily think would form the inspiration for a perfume brand. Well, it has. In an attempt to make things decidedly more “real”, NOYZ has arrived to cut through the fictitious and replace it with fact, and they’ve begun with their scented antidote to a Sh**ty Day.

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Monday 7 October 2024

EROS ENERGY by Versace

A bottle of the perfume Eros Energy from Versace

There can be no doubt that in the United Kingdom we have hit autumn with a vengeance. The wind is howling, the rain is falling, and a “crispness in the air” actually translates as “bloody cold”. However, it’s the vastly changing seasons that make this wonderful island such a special place to live. Having said that, it does feel a little early to be reaching for the amber-imbued sweetness that is reserved for the winter months. Happily Versace have come to the rescue with the beautifully timed Eros Energy. With some tantalisingly crisp citrus and woody facets, it feels like Versace have hit gold once again.

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Monday 30 September 2024

SPICE D'ARNO by Electimuss London

The need to explore is something that is instilled in us all from childhood - whether that’s as simple as discovering what lies at the end of the garden or delving into personal heritage. We are all naturally curious by design, and that doesn’t change as we get older. Exploring perfume can also be thought of in that simple or complex way - are you discovering the various types of fragrance or delving into one fragrance family? Electimuss London have combined a few of these ideas in their Explorer Collection, which draws from Roman society and their love of exploration, and it all begins with Spice d’Arno.

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Monday 23 September 2024

GHOST OF YOU by Mythologia Perfumes

A bottle of the Mythologia perfume Ghost of You

Scent and sensuality is a pairing that perfumers often strive to achieve in both niche and mainstream fragrances, but there’s a delicate balance that needs to be struck between the sultry and the slutty. The use of powerful resins within formulas often pushes the final scent to the latter - which isn’t to everyone’s taste. Finding that ideal point where the excitement of a liaison meets the realisation of the everyday, or even the marker that a steamy encounter is over, is the perfumer's sought after Gräfenberg spot. So, to find it in a debut collection is rare, but that’s exactly what you get with Ghost of You from Mythologia Perfumes.

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Monday 16 September 2024

HASU-NO-HANA by Grossmith

Having an established history and a worldwide reputation is not always a guarantee of success for a perfume house, especially if it’s one that was revived after a period of dormancy. Living up to the memories of customers who may, without actually realising it, be recalling scents in a far-from-true form can often prove difficult to navigate. However, when it’s done right, it can prove to be a diamond in a sea of commercial beige. One such perfume house is Grossmith who, after a period in the wilderness solely surviving on novelty soap, was reborn as the luxury brand that it always was and which it truly deserves to remain.

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Monday 9 September 2024

VENUS by Sense 'N'

A bottle of Venus perfume from Sense 'N'

The link between music and perfume is one that is constantly referenced in today’s fragrances but, to be honest, those creative and academic similarities have been around since the very first scent was put in the very first bottle. Whether it’s the cross-over in terms of words like “notes” and “chords” or the naming of the “perfumer’s organ”, the intertwining of these two creative industries is clear to see. It’s not surprising then that some people have a foot in both camps, and strive to forge closer bonds between them. Leonie Sherif is the latest to try her hand, and her Venus perfume promises to “unlock the energy within”.

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Monday 2 September 2024

ALTE by Memoize London

A bottle of the perfume Alte from Memoize London

The continuing pressure from above to categorise and define what makes each of us unique is something that shows no signs of letting up any time soon. It’s our individuality and personal drive that, when combined with others, can truly make an exciting and dynamic environment. Whether it’s gender, sexuality, religion or even music, holding on to your own identity is the only way to guarantee open discussion, and from that a closer understanding of how we can all live side by side. Perfume has always been a form of self-expression, and the latest release from Memoize is the perfect embodiment. It’s time to discover Alte.

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Monday 26 August 2024

LILAS by Fragonard

The excited wait for a new fragrance launch is something that is lost on many people these days, simply because there seems to be a new perfume released every minute! Keeping focused when there are images of bottles assaulting your eyes on social media, and campaigns running on the tv, gets harder every year. Add into this the ever-increasing prices and you’d be forgiven for taking up a more inexpensive hobby. Thankfully there’s one company that always keeps its offerings affordable and exciting. Fragonard have continued their Flower of the Year series into 2024 with Lilas, and the result is deliciously delightful.

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Monday 19 August 2024

JAMES by Atkinsons

With the warmer weather starting to subside in favour of more autumnal temperatures, it’s a good time to begin thinking about the fashion for changing your fragrance to suit the season. If I’m honest, I’ve always been a bit smorgasbord when it comes to perfume, and wear my favourites throughout the year regardless of weather. However, one fragrance that really comes into its own as we exit summer is James by Atkinsons. This celebratory scent perfectly straddles the troublesome seasonal divide, because it actually suits every season, but it’s woody and earthy undertones really shine through as an autumnal must-have.

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Monday 5 August 2024

EPONA by Papillon Perfumery

A bottle of Epona perfume from Papillon Perfumery

Creating a following in the perfume industry is something fragrance companies often spend tens of thousands of pounds trying to achieve. Indeed, the actual perfume can often become secondary to the marketing machine that surrounds it. With so many fragrances and ever-emerging brands to choose from every year, you can understand how important a loyal fan base can be. Most niche companies don’t have the finances to pump into adverts and PR - their product has to speak for itself. The perfect example of this is Papillon Perfumery, and their latest Epona perfume once again proves that they are a true thoroughbred.

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Monday 29 July 2024

PEACH'S REVENGE by Sarah Baker Perfumes

A bottle of the perfume Peach's Revenge by Sarah Baker

There are certain perfume brands that, happily for fragrance fans around the world, stay true to their original inspiration and ethos. It’s very easy for companies to swerve off in varying directions once their name is known, but this can lead to confusion amongst followers and uncertainty for new disciples. You'll have heard the old adage that “familiarity breeds contempt”, but in the world of fragrance it’s actually something to be respected and admired. Sarah Baker Perfumes launched with a promise to bring some Hollywood glamour to scent, often through literary inspirations, and this holds true with her new Peach’s Revenge.

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Monday 15 July 2024

FOCUS ROOM MIST by College Green

A bottle of Focus Room Mist from College Green

The concept of a product having a well-being effect is nothing new in the world of perfume and beauty, although in recent years it's almost become a subset of the industry. Whether we’re talking fragrance, skincare, or surround scenting, the overall scent now goes hand-in-hand with the emotional and mental benefits that the aroma will give to the wearer. The wellness market is a natural extension of the aromatherapy arena, but in a more high-street setting. One of the companies exploring this is College Green and, after their highly successful Sleep Easy Pillow & Room Mist, they’re back with the wonderfully uplifting Focus Room Mist.

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Monday 17 June 2024

AU BORD DE LA MER by Orosmo Perfumery

A bottle of the perfume Au Bord de la Mer from Orosmo Perfumery

Niche perfumery, artisan perfumery, independent perfumery - whichever term you prefer, it’s impossible to ignore the contribution that these make to the fragrance market. They have the ability to ignore high-street trends, because they're often produced in much smaller quantities, so the customer gets to experience scent styles they won’t find in the larger department stores. One of these independent companies is Orosmo Perfumery, and their two collections offer a wonderful insight into how “niche can be wearable”. So, with summer approaching, let’s head to the sea with the wonderfully aquatic Au Bord de la Mer.

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Monday 10 June 2024

TIDES OF LOVE by Teniqua

A bottle of the perfume Tides Of Love from Teniqua

Would you be brave enough to translate your innermost memories, or even your secret places, into scent? It’s a question that many new brands ask themselves when they are thinking of launching, but often they’ll opt for more pedestrian inspirations instead. Releasing a fragrance to the world is one thing, but sharing your soul adds another layer. If the perfume isn’t well received, how does that reflect upon your experiences? When Frances Lamb launched Teniqua it was exactly this route that she went down, but thankfully with universal praise. Tides of Love sees her swap memories for places, and the result is an absolute joy.

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Monday 3 June 2024

BLEU RIVIERA by Fragonard

The scent of the sea has been a fragrance trend that, whilst arguably exemplified by the classic L'eau d'Issey pour Homme, continues to be experimented with constantly by perfume houses around the world. This idea of capturing the aroma, the feel, and the look of the ocean has been presented in many forms, but not all of them have managed to capture both the majesty alongside the delicacy. For the launch of their new eau de toilette, Fragonard have thrown their hat into the ring and introduced a second aquatic fragrance to their male range, and it’s a celebration in the form of Bleu Riviera by Jordi Fernández.

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Monday 27 May 2024

JASMIN GYOKURO by Artimique

The Heart Charm bottle for the perfume JASMIN GYOKURO from ARTIMIQUE

The world of perfumery is built upon multiple traditions, whether that’s a fragrance's classification or through to those pesky note pyramids, but one of the most obvious is the notion of how people discover a perfume. The majority will still go into a store and smell the latest release on a paper blotter, before taking the plunge and spraying themselves liberally, and this might lead to the gift of a precious 2ml sample from the salesperson. Now this has been the norm for decades, but Artimique is challenging this with her beautiful Heart Charm, and the UK-based Sainte Cellier is backing her every step of the way.

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Monday 20 May 2024

SOAPY HEART by Shloksha

One of the continuing trends in the niche fragrance market is the appearance of the “self-taught perfumer”. Originally you had to go to one of the established perfumery schools, or work under a master perfumer, to perfect your sensory muscles, but all of that has now changed. With the ever-increasing online courses, as well as in-person taster sessions, the secret layers of the industry are being peeled away to allow a more diverse offering to customers who are hungry for originality. Now, the results from self-taught perfumers are very variable, but the release of Soapy Heart by Shloksha shows what’s possible with commitment.

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Monday 13 May 2024

SIGNATURE by Ruth Mastenbroek

Our lives often seem to be centred around finding “the one”, whether that be the perfect relationship, the ideal job, or your forever home. But the concept of “the one” also extends to perfume. There is still a fashion for hunting out a “signature” scent, that is one that you’ll be instantly recognised for wearing. I’m sure there have been times when you’ve known who is about to walk into the room before you see them because of their fragrance. However, with so many perfumes to choose from, where do you begin? Well, Ruth Mastenbroek has given you the perfect starting point with her aptly named Signature.

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Monday 6 May 2024

29 HIGH STREET by LUSH

A bottle of the perfume 29 HIGH STREET by PIA LONG for LUSH

When you think about the various possible inspirations for perfume then the list usually includes pretty standard ideas like music, cities, ingredients, memories etc. This is because these are the “inspirations” that are so often trumpeted by the many fragrance companies. Obviously there are others that can be called on to ignite the creativity, but one of the boldest was surely embraced back in 2013. Acclaimed perfumer Pia Long was at that point in her career working for LUSH and, due to an unexpected track change, the now legendary 29 High Street perfume was born. Eleven years later, it’s time to revisit the fragrance's story.

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Monday 29 April 2024

NIDA by Gallivant

“Travel broadens the mind” is probably one of the most often-used sayings in the English language. There’s no doubt that surrounding yourself with new cultures, new locations, and even new cuisines is something that is guaranteed to have a lasting impression. These experiences shape who we are, and the ripples stay within us for the rest of our lives. Now, travel comes at a cost, and certain locations aren’t always available to everyone, but that’s where the magic of fragrance can help. By conjuring a place, the wearer can go some way to imagining how it feels to visit, and Gallivant are promising just that with their new Nida perfume.

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Monday 22 April 2024

MINT & TONIC by Atkinsons

A bottle of the Atkinsons Mint & Tonic perfume

The sunlight is finally starting to break through the grey clouds of winter, which definitely seem to have lasted far too long into spring, and so our thoughts start to eagerly jump forward to sandy beaches and chilled cocktails. Us Brits have an innate habit of declaring any temperature above 10°C as a warm day, and so it’s the perfect time to discover a fragrance that seamlessly suits the exit of spring and the coming of summer. Atkinsons is a company that has always managed to offer both the effervescent uplifters at the same time as the more resinous raunchies, and Mint & Tonic perfectly sparkles into the former.

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Monday 15 April 2024

KARTUSHYA HAND & BODY WASH by Jonathan Ward

For two years we washed our hands at the same time as singing “Happy Birthday”, so as to achieve the optimum results in the battle against Covid. Now, I’ve always been someone that enjoys the process of washing my hands, creating the lather, and watching the bubbles leave my skin perfectly perfumed… and also clean. So, this instruction was very easy to follow. Since the world reopened for business, soaps and hand washes have remained an important part of our lives, more for reassurance than performance. However, it’s time to reintroduce some luxury into the bathroom courtesy of Jonathan Ward and Kartushya.

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Monday 1 April 2024

THE ARTISTE COLLECTION by Ma Lumiére

The Belmondo and Piaf candles from Ma Lumiere

Certain seasons suit certain products, but candles seem to transcend them all. Whether scenting your home, your wedding, or even an outside soirée, the perfect candle can set both the mood and the atmosphere. The candle industry is one that saw a massive boom during the Covid years, with many kitchen-top companies arriving and disappearing with the same speed, but there are a few artisan brands that are still flourishing. In a competitive market, a company needs to offer something unique. That’s exactly what Ma Lumière have done with its Artiste Collection, and the exquisite results are fantastically affordable.

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Monday 25 March 2024

ORANGE BLOSSOM PETAL by 1000 Flowers

A bottle of Orange Blossom Petal perfume by 1000 Flowers

Many fragrances take their names from singular ingredients or, as became the fashion when Jo Malone London started the trend, a combination of defined notes. Who can ever forget Lime Basil & Mandarin? This is a great way to focus the customer on the style of fragrance that they are going to smell and, in the case of singular names, the star ingredient. However, there is always the risk of preconceived ideas based on previous smelling experience. So, when 1000 Flowers launched Orange Blossom Petal, they cleverly implied a delicacy to the usual robust orange blossom, and the result was a delightful semi-floral experience.

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Monday 18 March 2024

JARDIM REAL by Granado

A bottle of Jardim Real perfume from Granado

There is always something so refreshing in perfumery about finding fragrances that speak of another time, another era, when life was “simpler” and distractions were few. Of course, the actual real life experiences would have been far from simple, just focused in a different way to ours, but scents that don’t follow today’s trends really are a welcome relief. With many historical brands choosing to jettison portions of their back catalogue in favour of trend-following releases, discovering a company that actively honours its past and dedicates time to its creations is a breath of fresh air, and it helps that we’re heading to Brazil.

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Monday 11 March 2024

L’Été à la Villa Ephrussi by Charles Wong

The first perfume a company releases is often the fragrance that the creator has wanted to realise their whole life - whether that's the embodiment of a person, a place, or an emotive experience. It’s the releases that follow however that can cause the issues. Will the second, third or fourth be met with the same response, and is the inspiration strong enough? When Charles Wong launched Aurora back in 2019 he started gently but, over the following two fragrances, has grown in both scented drama and luxurious subjects. The fourth perfume in the collection takes us to the South East of France, and is as beautiful as its inspiration.

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Monday 4 March 2024

ENGLISH CHERRY BLOSSOM by Shay & Blue

A bottle of the perfume English Cherry Blossom from Shay & Blue

There are few things in life that you can be truly sure of, with the exception of the changing seasons. However, with the continuing issues around climate change, even these are getting a little out of kilter. Though the start and end dates might now seem to vary from year to year, the order at least remains the same. Most people take summer to be season one, followed by autumn and winter, but by spring we’re all definitely ready for a little hint of returning sunshine. That’s why spring is the perfect time to reach for a much-needed bottle of blossom, and you can’t go far wrong with English Cherry Blossom from Shay & Blue.

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Monday 19 February 2024

VERDANT by Eau de Boujee

A bottle of Verdant perfume from Eau de Boujee

Every industry has its own set of rules that are supposed to be followed without question, and in the perfume industry that relates to which ingredients are suitable for which season. As a general rule of thumb you are supposed to concentrate on vanilla and ambers in winter, woody notes in autumn, citruses in summer, and green notes in spring. Now, if you’ve been following me for any length of time then you’ll know I think this is absolute nonsense. Wear what you like, when you like, for whatever reason you like, it’s as simple as that. So, with this in mind, it’s time to discover Verdant from Eau de Boujee.

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Monday 12 February 2024

UN PATCHOULI by Obvious Parfums

A bottle of Un Patchouli fragrance by Obvious Parfums

Simplicity in scent is something that's often attempted by the perfume industry but, with the exception of companies like Shay & Blue or 4711’s Acqua Colonia collection, results can be quite linear and uninspiring. The complexity of traditional methods ends up being replaced with single notes, or a blend of similar aromas, so there isn’t any excitement in the finished fragrance. One of the companies that have managed to embrace “simplicity” but also still retain “style” is Obvious Parfums. With the moto that their fragrances are “simple, sophisticated and respectful”, it’s time to discover the distinctly different Un Patchouli.

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Monday 5 February 2024

SLEEP EASY PILLOW & ROOM MIST by College Green

A bottle of Sleep Easy Pillow & Room Mist from College Green

The days of fragrance being solely used for the production of perfumes is long gone, as can be seen in the multitude of scented products that are available in every high-street store. From soaps to diffusers, and car fresheners to candles, our love of fragranced items seems to have no bounds. It’s this demand for ever more interesting ways to scent our homes that brought about the Pillow Mist craze, although many companies have since moved away from this “difficult to market” product. However, always up for a challenge, College Green have just launched a new Sleep Easy Pillow & Room Mist, and the result is first class.

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Monday 29 January 2024

CITRUS OUD by Teniqua

A bottle of the perfume Citrus Oud from Teniqua

The perfect perfume can release long-hidden memories, conjure up forgotten experiences, or even act as the scentscape to new adventures. Its ability to push deep into our senses is just one of the reasons why it’s often thought of as a magical potion. Perfume also often patiently waits to be discovered, or rediscovered, at the exact moment it’s needed. A moment too soon and it can be overlooked, but experienced at the ideal time can create a bond that will last forever. Citrus Oud from Teniqua was originally launched at the end of 2021, but 2024 was my year to discover its magic.

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Monday 22 January 2024

ROCKIN' ROSE by EAU.MG

A bottle of the Rockin' Rose perfume from EAU.MG

Perfumery, like anything else that has an artistic bent, is often less about creating something new and more about presenting something in a different light. The ingredients that are open to a perfumer are, with the exciting advances in synthetics, almost limitless, but there are a few core ones that always demand attention. Patchouli, iris, vanilla, jasmine - all of these have an inbuilt familiarity that feels safe, but showcasing them in original ways is what customers are look for. Now, rose is such a well-known ingredient that finding an original take on it can be hard, but that’s exactly what you get with EAU.MG’s Rockin’ Rose.

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Monday 15 January 2024

CÅKE by ånd fragrance

A bottle of Cåke, the new perfume from and fragrance

We place a lot of importance on words and titles in everyday life, and the same is also true in the world of perfumery. The difference with the latter though is that words can very much be open to personal interpretation. If you think about “note lists” versus “ingredient lists”, “fragrance families” versus “fragrance styles”, or even “eau de parfum” versus “eau de toilette”, you’ll begin to see how it’s not as clear cut as it might first seem. So, this brings us to the latest release from ånd fragrance. Cåke is the name but, if you’re expecting a gourmand overdose that means a trip to the dentist, then you’ll be happily relieved.

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Monday 8 January 2024

PINEDE by Tessa Williams

The New Tessa Williams Travel Collection Candle called Pinede

A New Year always brings with it the usual set of resolutions, which honestly have very little chance of being achieved, the excitement of a whole twelve months of new perfume releases, and also a little bit of tradition. Before heading into the ever-expanding world of fragrance, many people look forward to switching out their festive home scents in favour of some January newness. It’s a relatively inexpensive treat after the excesses of the holiday season, and one that you can easily achieve with the last of the Christmas money. This January I’ve plumped for the comforting Pinede Candle from Tessa Williams.

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After twenty successful years as an actor, I decided the time was right to begin a new career, and that was in the perfume industry. Scent had always been a passion of mine, and working alongside a new group of creative minds ended up being the perfect fit.

As a Brand Consultant, Evaluator, Copywriter and New Business Advisor, the variety of work is exciting, and definitely draws on my acting background. Every day brings new challenges, experiences and delights to a workplace that is crammed full of new releases, evergreens, and fading classics.

This website brings together my ramblings on all aspects of the perfume industry from bottle design to fragrance, companies to noses, and everything in between.

Opinions are my own and do not in any way represent the views of the companies mentioned. Where products or services have been provided by the companies it is stated at the end of the article.

Companies and readers are welcome to contact me by using the Send Me A Message option below.

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