Showing posts with label Jacques Guerlain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jacques Guerlain. Show all posts

Monday, 5 August 2024

EPONA by Papillon Perfumery

A bottle of Epona perfume from Papillon Perfumery
Creating a following in the perfume industry is something fragrance companies often spend tens of thousands of pounds trying to achieve. Indeed, the actual perfume can often become secondary to the marketing machine that surrounds it. With so many fragrances and ever-emerging brands to choose from every year, you can understand how important a loyal fan base can be. Most niche companies don’t have the finances to pump into adverts and PR - their product has to speak for itself. The perfect example of this is Papillon Perfumery, and their latest Epona perfume once again proves that they are a true thoroughbred.

Monday, 21 March 2022

FÅR by ånd fragrance

Whenever I interview people for “Stephan’s Six”, the question about their first scent memory often gravitates towards deliciously scented food. The aroma of fresh bread, the sweet scent of buttercream, or even zesty homemade lemonade, these subconscious childhood fragrances can really shape our future perfume preferences. No one can forget the experience of biting into an unripe gooseberry, or getting to lick the uncooked cake mix off the spatula, so finding all of these sensations combined in a perfume is an unexpected treat. Får from ånd fragrance is the latest in their collection, and it’s every Bake Off fan’s dream.

Thursday, 10 December 2020

FAUN by Thomas O'Brien

The inspiration behind a fragrance can often be the anchor that holds a whole project together. If you have a solid foundation then you have room to experiment, but a tenuous grasp on an idea can see you quickly drift off course. I admit that sometimes this can result in unexpected discoveries, but that doesn’t always help the project at hand. However, having a clear vision of how you want your finished fragrance to smell is not always easy. Thankfully, when Thomas O’Brien decided to launch his first commercial perfume it literally was the stuff of legend, but how would he translate the mythical Faun into fragrance?

Monday, 9 November 2020

PÉTALES SOUS LE SOLEIL by 1000 Flowers

To say that 2020 has been a difficult year would be an understatement. Along with every other industry, the plans that perfume companies had in place all needed to be adapted or dropped, and a necessity for operating “in the moment” became imperative. One of the areas that was most impacted were the summer-inspired releases that always accompany the warmer months. With shops closed, a lack of testers available to try, and money becoming tight, many didn't seem to arrive. One company that did offer some respite to the dark clouds though was 1000 Flowers, and their Pétales Sous Le Soleil provides some much needed escape.

Monday, 25 May 2020

MUGUET 56 by Daniel Pescio

As soon as we mention florals in the same sentence as perfume our minds instinctively turn to feminine fragrances. We have been brought up to believe that flowers are for girls and woods are for men, in the same way as choosing pink and blue, but thankfully things are changing. A willingness to challenge stereotypes has seen many men reaching for florals. Sometimes it’s to disarm but mainly it’s simply a love of this style of fragrance. One perfumer that has an incredible skill and creating florals is Daniel Pescio, and this is perfectly displayed in his beautifully constructed lily of the valley perfume, Muguet 56.

Monday, 16 December 2019

UNSCHEDULED WANDER by Elementary

Starting a new perfume company is a venture that can be fraught with delays and disasters but, if you’re lucky, can also prove to be one of the most exciting rides of your life. Everyone offers opinions on bottle styles, graphics, and even launch dates so navigating people’s good intentions can be tricky. Sometimes coming at the whole enterprise from a different angle can reap its own rewards and this is where we find ourselves with the latest addition to the perfume market. Elementary has launched Unscheduled Wander, an olfactory Time Machine that positively revels in the androgynous beauty of the chypre fragrance.

Monday, 29 October 2018

SHALIMAR by Guerlain

One of the joys of writing about scent is that I occasionally get the chance to revisit a fragrance that can truly be described as a “classic” in the history of perfumery. The word is used too frequently to describe all sorts of fragrances, and it often feels as though it has lost a little of its importance. However, when it comes to Shalimar by Guerlain the word is absolutely spot on. For a fragrance that is ninety-three years old, this matriarch of a scent still has something to offer to younger generations, especially those who dare to be different. Let me reintroduce you to this Jacques Guerlain classic.

Thursday, 12 October 2017

GUERLAIN'S RUSSIA

Guerlain
has always enjoyed an unparalleled affection amongst perfume fans and part of this is the continuing transparency that they are displaying in their current releases, and also in the rewriting of parts of its history. Over time a "good story" can cover up the true facts and it is refreshing to see these being peeled away piece by piece. As part of this openness, Guerlain allowed Thierry Wasser and Frédéric Sacone’s vintage recreations to be made available to smell at the Champs Elysees boutique and this means that we can travel to Russia, via France, and discover Impérial Russe and Cuir de Russie.

Monday, 6 February 2017

STEPHAN'S SIX - DANIEL PESCIO


ISIPCA is a school based in Versailles that teaches the formulation of perfumes, cosmetics and flavours. Now, many perfumers have passed through its doors but one of the newest is Daniel Pescio. His background in cinematography has definitely influenced his style, with bold choices littering his creations, and when I met up with him in Paris I took the opportunity to find out more about this new perfumer during “Stephan’s Six”.

Thursday, 1 December 2016

BLACK OSMANTHUS by Marina Barcenilla

Renaming and rebranding is one thing, but taking your company outside of its original fragrance style is completely different. This is the situation that Marina Barcenilla finds herself in with the release of her first perfume under the Marina Barcenilla Parfums label. Four weeks ago, on 1st November 2016, The Perfume Garden changed its identity but took five of the most popular perfumes with it. With one of these being the FiFi Award winning India there were high expectations for the new company's debut fragrance, Black Osmanthus. Would a new name signal a new style or would it just be a case of "the emperors new clothes"?

Thursday, 17 November 2016

GUERLAIN'S TOP FIVE by Stephan Matthews and Monsieur Guerlain


It's difficult to imagine having to choose your top five Guerlain fragrances, but that's exactly what Monsieur Guerlain and I were asked to do. We were set the challenge of deciding our favourites from those that are still in production, and hopefully it will inspire you to add one, or possibly two, onto your Christmas list. Fragrances mean different things to different people and, whilst our choices have some similarities, there are some interesting differences. Monsieur Guerlain's five are firmly rooted in the company's classic period, but one of my choices will definitely cause a few raised eyebrows. So, get a stiff drink and let's begin the Guerlain Boys' Top Five.

Monday, 26 September 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - JOHN STEPHEN


When the Cotswold Perfumery opened in 1965 few could have thought that it would reach last years' milestone of forty years. Based in the English village of Bourton on the Water its perfumer is John Stephen. He creates fragrances for his own company but also for much larger organisations, although which ones is a closely guarded secret. So, I thought it was about time John came out of the shadows, and the laboratory, to answer "Stephan's Six".

Thursday, 23 June 2016

GUERLAIN - The King Of Colognes

It's a rite of passage, a marker of acceptance, an honour above all others. It's a very select club which currently only has five members. A company which became famous for a very special Eau de Cologne continues that tradition by asking each of its perfumers to create their own cologne to sit alongside previous generations. I am of course talking about Guerlain. Each perfumer through its history has contributed their own interpretation to this exquisite collection. With a span of one hundred and fifty seven years from the first to the last you know that you're going to run the whole gamut. So let's take a look at the Perfumers' Collection.

Thursday, 17 March 2016

VEGA ... Jacques Guerlain's Star

Different periods in history result in different fascinations, and these make themselves known in various forms. What do I mean by this? Simply that the subject or fashion of the day will find its way into every part of our normal life. Remember Bakelite and Melamine? They were used in every conceivable form, including as perfume bottles. So, in an era that became fascinated by the heavens Jaques Guerlain created Vega, and even placed it on its very own melamine plinth. To celebrate the perfume's ninetieth birthday let's plunge headlong into the stars and rediscover this lost Guerlain classic.

Monday, 14 September 2015

Guerlain Lavande - The 1920s Mystery

With their vintage recreations now totalling fifty, Thierry Wasser and Frèdèric Sacone have allowed perfume fans to experience some of Guerlain's most famous fragrances. Obviously choices have to be made, and not all of the perfumes can be included. One of those which is missing is Lavande. It might not sound very impressive, but unraveling the truth has made me realise just how special it really is.

My interest in Lavande began because of contradictions that littered various blogs and websites. Nothing about this old girl seemed to add up. There were various release dates, various ingredients and even various creators. So I thought it was time to rediscover this forgotten gem, and maybe try a recreation of my own.