There aren't many perfume houses that have managed to survive the journey from historic fragrance to mass market crowd pleaser, because these two styles of scent usually resonate with very different groups. The change often happens because of a change in tastes, but it’s the act of recognising this that can mean the difference between a company continuing or closing. Grossmith is an example of a historic company that survived by cleverly switching to post-war fragrance fashions, but their original perfumes really are still the stuff of legend. Remastered and reinvigorated, it’s time to rediscover the iris-laden Shem-el-Nessim.
Showing posts with label Coty. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Coty. Show all posts
Monday, 17 October 2022
Monday, 19 April 2021
CIEL D'ETÉ by L.T. Piver
Three years ago, almost to the day, I wrote an article about how the ageing process can alter a perfume’s scent. Over time the volatile citruses can thin out, if not disappear completely, and the resinous vanillas and woods can become decidedly richer than was ever intended. Add into the mix storage conditions and you’ll see why perception can become confused. This is why when I saw the discontinued Ciel d'Eté (Summer Sky) by L.T. Piver simply described as “leathery and woody” something didn’t sound right. So, I pulled my cherished bottle out of storage and, for the first time, opened it to the elements. What I smelled was totally unexpected.
Thursday, 13 August 2020
INFINITE by Ilsa Fragrances
In the current climate of transparency within the perfume business it’s becoming more acceptable for the unseen creatives to finally step forward and take a bow. This long overdue change is introducing many more names to the eager fragrance community, and it’s also seen a lot of those creatives branch out and launch their own perfume brands. However, finding the theme to ultimately hang the fragrances on is no easy task. It will be the perfumed persona that customers will latch onto, and it needs to resonate. Ilsa Fragrances has taken female empowerment as its cornerstone and woven it into Infinite No.1 and Infinite No.2.
Thursday, 23 May 2019
CHIENOIR by Amanda Beadle
Chypre fragrances have made a huge comeback in the past few years, although some would say that they never really went away. Many companies merely started to refer to them more as “woody” scents, because it was easier than explaining the term “chypre,” but they also started to pull back on the mossy quality of the perfumes. This forest-floor earthiness was what truly defined this style and so it is wonderful to see it alive and well in Amanda Beadle’s award winning fragrance, Chienoir. This self-taught perfumer has stripped back the chypre and revealed the glorious layers that have been hidden for too long.
Monday, 28 May 2018
The Fragrance Foundation Online Training Course
Part of the experience of purchasing a fragrance is the interaction that you have with the sales assistant. The information about a perfume, or even the little snippets of history and advice, can turn a simple shopping trip into a memorable visit. However, “memorable” isn’t always good if the information is wrong. Most perfume companies offer training programs but it isn’t always possible to cover everything, and this is why The Fragrance Foundation now provides their Online Training Course. It’s advertised as a chance to gain more knowledge about the history and workings of the perfume industry, but does it succeed?
Thursday, 14 September 2017
RUSSIAN LEATHER by Molton Brown
The continuing push at the moment seems to be for companies to release product “collections”. By this I mean the fragrance, the shower gel, the candle, the body lotion etc. in their latest scent. Now this is actually nothing new, Coty were doing it for years, but brands have refocused their approach in an attempt to cement every new launch by offering their customers the fragrance in at least one form that they will like. Some brands miss the mark on translating the scent into the various products, but one company who continues to excel is Molton Brown. Let's take a look at their latest addition, Russian Leather.
Thursday, 9 March 2017
Is Being "On Trend" Really The Enemy?
The perfume industry is the same as any other industry in the twenty first century, it has to move quickly and follow trends. Yes, there are some companies who actively try to go head to head with customer’s expectations and these are to be applauded. They offer a beacon in a sea of similarity but in all honesty, and I know that I will get shouted at for saying this, is there really a problem with companies taking the lead off their competitors? The powerhouse that is Lancôme’s La Vie Est Belle has spawned multiple “homages” but so did Chanel’s No.5. So, are we being too harsh on an industry where being "on trend" is nothing new?
Labels:
Anne Flipo,
Chanel,
Chiris,
Coty,
Dominique Ropion,
Ernest Beaux,
Guerlain,
L'Aimant,
La Vie Est Belle,
Lancôme,
Mon Exclusif,
Mon Guerlain,
Olivier Polge,
Thierry Wasser,
Vincent Roubert
Monday, 27 February 2017
STEPHAN'S SIX - JAMES CRAVEN
The words “fragrance historian” are used very freely in today’s perfume industry, but one man who truly does deserve that title is James Craven. Based at Les Senteurs in London, his knowledge is extraordinary and his stories are always entertaining. So, after spending his life talking about other people’s fragrances, what would he reveal about his own memories during “Stephan’s Six”?
Thursday, 26 May 2016
HAS "NICHE" HAD ITS DAY?
One of the problems with perfume, as with most other hobbies or pastimes, is that there will always be an element of snobbery from certain camps. This can be around a particular brand, certain perfumers, even the direction that companies choose to take their scents. I find the greatest cause of misinformation usually comes from this group as they wage a war against anything that classifies as "mainstream". The word that is bandied around constantly at the moment is "niche", but is it time that we finally put it to bed in favour of a different one? I know that I am sticking my head well and truly above the parapet but my heckles are raised and it's time to voice my opinion.Monday, 18 April 2016
STEPHAN'S SIX - ELIZABETH CHADWICK
Elizabeth Chadwick is a bestselling historical novelist of more than twenty books, with a particular interest in the Medieval period. Her novel The Greatest Knight, about the legendary William Marshal, was a New York Times bestseller in 2012. She says she "collects perfumes for the sheer joy and curiosity of the experience", so what treasures would she unearth during "Stephan's Six"?
Labels:
Apple Blossom,
Blasé,
Bubblegum,
Cabochard,
Carven,
Coty,
Demeter,
Elizabeth Chadwick,
Funeral Home,
Gres,
Guerlain,
Helena Rubenstein,
L'Aimant,
Ma Griffe,
Max Factor,
Mitsouko
Thursday, 17 March 2016
VEGA ... Jacques Guerlain's Star
Different periods in history result in different fascinations, and these make themselves known in various forms. What do I mean by this? Simply that the subject or fashion of the day will find its way into every part of our normal life. Remember Bakelite and Melamine? They were used in every conceivable form, including as perfume bottles. So, in an era that became fascinated by the heavens Jaques Guerlain created Vega, and even placed it on its very own melamine plinth. To celebrate the perfume's ninetieth birthday let's plunge headlong into the stars and rediscover this lost Guerlain classic.Thursday, 17 December 2015
L'AIMANT - 88 And Not Out!
When Gabrielle Chanel launched her famous No5 in 1921 she could never have imagined the effect that it would have on the perfume industry, although her fierce determination would certainly have wanted it to be an international success. What Ernest Beaux's perfume did was to create a completely new category of scents, the Aldehydic Floral. Aldehydes were nothing new, Guerlain had used them in the 1889 Iris Blanc, but what was groundbreaking was using them in such large quantities. Now, copying successful perfumes was commonplace, even then, but let's take a look at the one that almost destroyed No5 ... L'Aimant by Coty.
Monday, 14 September 2015
Guerlain Lavande - The 1920s Mystery
With their vintage recreations now totalling fifty, Thierry Wasser and Frèdèric Sacone have allowed perfume fans to experience some of Guerlain's most famous fragrances. Obviously choices have to be made, and not all of the perfumes can be included. One of those which is missing is Lavande. It might not sound very impressive, but unraveling the truth has made me realise just how special it really is.
My interest in Lavande began because of contradictions that littered various blogs and websites. Nothing about this old girl seemed to add up. There were various release dates, various ingredients and even various creators. So I thought it was time to rediscover this forgotten gem, and maybe try a recreation of my own.
Sunday, 26 July 2015
The Wedding Fragrance
What will your wedding smell like? You've chosen the flowers and the venue, maybe even scented the church with a myriad of Jo Malone candles, but the most important decision is still to be made. What perfumes are you both going to choose for the big day? You're going to stand opposite each other for an hour, although if often feels considerably longer, so it would be a good start to the celebration if you liked each others' scent. There has recently been a boom in the fashion for speciality "wedding fragrances", but are we missing some true classics in the never ending quest for scented originality?
Monday, 1 June 2015
SOPHIA - Wear It With Passion
In 1981 Sophia Loren declined an offer to play the iconic role of Alexis Colby in "Dynasty", and so the part famously went to Joan Collins. However, the same year did see the release of the perfume SOPHIA by Coty. Described as “the fragrance of living and loving”, Sophia Loren told women to “wear it with a passion”. With an Italian sexuality that she was famous for, that message was clear. Thirty-five years later she would return to the world of fragrance in Dolce & Gabbana's Rosa Excelsa campaign, but for now, after a cold shower, I gently caressed the bottle to see whether the original passion could be rekindled!
Labels:
Alexis Colby,
Amber,
Citrus,
Clove,
Coty,
Dynasty,
Floral,
Floral Oriental,
Frankincense,
Iris,
Jasmine,
Musk,
Oriental,
Rose,
Sandalwood,
Sophia,
Sophia Loren,
Vanilla,
Vetiver,
Ylang Ylang
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