With the weather getting hotter, and people making the most of the sunshine, many are looking at ways to cool down while still smelling fantastic. Now, those living in France, Germany and Spain know exactly how to achieve this, but their traditional approach is still not really embraced by fragrance fans outside of those countries. I’m talking about the wonderfully inexpensive option of liberally splashing on a cologne. Colognes are one of the most cost-effective ways to scent, at the same time as beating the heat, and one of my favourites has always been the legendary Héliotrope Blanc Lotion by L.T. Piver.
There’s nothing I enjoy more than spending an hour or two wandering around the brocante markets in France, and usually coming away with far too many things to fit in my suitcase! So, with travel still a little limited, it’s wonderful that these types of elevated flea markets seem to have really taken off in the UK as well. It’s the excitement of finding the missing piece of a dinner set, a lost childhood memory, or even something that you wonder how you've ever lived without. Kilted Quarter is one of these new UK companies, but they’ve also launched a range of brocante-inspired candles that are guaranteed to have perfume lovers rushing to order.
Three years ago, almost to the day, I wrote an article about how the ageing process can alter a perfume’s scent. Over time the volatile citruses can thin out, if not disappear completely, and the resinous vanillas and woods can become decidedly richer than was ever intended. Add into the mix storage conditions and you’ll see why perception can become confused. This is why when I saw the discontinued Ciel d'Eté (Summer Sky) by L.T. Piver simply described as “leathery and woody” something didn’t sound right. So, I pulled my cherished bottle out of storage and, for the first time, opened it to the elements. What I smelled was totally unexpected.
One of the problems with “historical” perfume companies is unscrambling fact from fiction. Over time you find that the rumour mill adds a fact here and an anecdote there, but it becomes even more difficult when the company is sold numerous times. A perfect example is L.T. Piver, but it’s worth a little digging around in order to appreciate one of their most famous creations, Rêve d’Or. When this scent was launched it was groundbreaking but, whilst still incredibly popular in the Middle East, it has started to be forgotten elsewhere. So, to celebrate its one hundred and thirtieth birthday, it's time to rediscover Rêve d’Or.
When Lizzie Ostrom (aka Odette Toilette) first told me that she was writing a book about perfume I remember thinking, how will you get the character of this eccentric into print? Lizzie is anything but predictable, and she has made her reputation by taking perfume and turning it on its head. Anyone who has witnessed her in action knows that her quirky style and approachable manner is what keeps you coming back for more. So, would this translate into print? There have many dry, dusty and pretentious books about perfume over the years which use language that even Countdown's Dictionary Corner would struggle with, but this is not one of them.
