The tradition of applying a palmful of cologne onto the face and body has been superseded these days by the more recognised spritz, but it wasn’t always like this. Colognes, also known as lotions, were liberally splashed after shaving or used as a frictionate after bathing. The idea was that the action of rubbing it vigorously onto the body would awaken the senses and, as the alcohol evaporated, produce a feeling of cool freshness. Perfume companies have regularly played with the cologne form, but L.T. Piver always had it as part of their collection.
The company was launched in 1774 by Michel Adam but, at that time, they were called A la Reine des Fleurs. Based in Paris, they originally produced exquisite floral waters along with fashionably scented gloves. It wasn’t long before their reputation for excellence spread and they became an official supplier to the court of Louis XVI and opened a store in London. Various changes of ownership, some within the family and finally externally to Eric Amouyal in 1988, saw the lustre dim slightly on this historic house, but it has always managed to retain its loyal followers and continues to attract new converts.
Héliotrope Blanc owes its existence to the synthetic heliotropin, which was discovered in 1885 and recreated the scent of the flower in an affordable way. Now, there are many different colours of heliotrope flower, but taking white as inspiration gave it an almost ethereal quality. The fragrance opens with an immediate pairing of ylang and jasmine, but this is alongside an edgy note of bergamot and green dewy foliage. There’s a touch of clove that comes through but, very quickly, the heliotrope arrives in the form of a cherry pie aroma. The simple development of the scent then sees the appearance of tonka bean and musk, but it seamlessly completes a deliciously vintage and unisex summer cooler.
Héliotrope Blanc Lotion can be found online from numerous sellers in its 423ml and 100ml sizes, and also often appears in TKMaxx. There’s also an eau de toilette version if you’re looking for a slightly longer lasting scent. You can also read my previous L.T Piver reviews of Rêve d’Or and Ciel d'Eté by clicking on the images below. [Bottles were purchased]
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