When we look at the never ending stream of reviews for any new perfume you could be forgiven for thinking that you’ve read it all before. Many of them seem to follow the press release from the company so rigidly that you can almost second guess what is going to be said. The real joy of fragrance is that different people can react in different ways to the same scent, so why not say so? This is what happened when I smelled the latest release from Liz Moores and Papillon Perfumery. Whilst it may have originally been inspired by ancient Egyptian rituals, Spell 125 took me instead to Germany and its annual celebration of Hexennacht.
Thursday 29 April 2021
Monday 26 April 2021
ROSE CHARCOAL by Emmanuelle Moeglin
When a new company truly grabs their customers’ attention then the sky really is the limit. A small and intimate start-up can, over time, take its place as a fully-fledged and successful brand. This is what happened to Emmanuelle Moeglin and her Experimental Perfume Club. Originally launched in 2015, they've just opened their new shop in London’s historic Monmouth Street and it promises to add a new experience to this theatrical thoroughfare. With the paint still fresh on the doors, I took the opportunity to visit and delve into Emmanuelle’s collection, and within seconds I fell for the wide-eyed charms of Rose Charcoal.
Thursday 22 April 2021
I've Gone Nuts Over Ånd Fragrances
Launching an online brand in the middle of a global pandemic is certainly not something for the faint hearted. However, following that up with the opening of a physical shop, as we exit the UK’s latest lockdown, pushes the boundaries for even the most daring of people. That is exactly what Simon Constantine has done with ånd fragrance. He has managed to take Corporate Social Responsibility to a whole new level, invested in the struggling world of high street retail, and launched five fantastic fragrances. I went to Poole to visit the new store and also to discover his latest release, the Tåg Solid Perfume.
Monday 19 April 2021
CIEL D'ETÉ by L.T. Piver
Three years ago, almost to the day, I wrote an article about how the ageing process can alter a perfume’s scent. Over time the volatile citruses can thin out, if not disappear completely, and the resinous vanillas and woods can become decidedly richer than was ever intended. Add into the mix storage conditions and you’ll see why perception can become confused. This is why when I saw the discontinued Ciel d'Eté (Summer Sky) by L.T. Piver simply described as “leathery and woody” something didn’t sound right. So, I pulled my cherished bottle out of storage and, for the first time, opened it to the elements. What I smelled was totally unexpected.
Thursday 15 April 2021
REBEL SOUL by Bel Rebel
Every perfume brand that launches has the initial challenge of deciding exactly what is going to make them different from the thousands that are already in existence. Over the years there have been a myriad of broken promises and bucket loads of marketing, so you can understand that when a new fragrance is sent to me I like to do some digging before I write about it. “Challenging conventions” and offering “unexpected twists” have become commonplace phrases, but they aren’t always delivered. One company that has succeeded however is Bel Rebel, and their Rebel Soul perfume is gloriously exquisite in its simplicity.
Monday 12 April 2021
TASTE & FLAVOUR by Ryan Riley and Kimberley Duke
It's very rare to come across people that you can honestly call 100% selfless, but those are the only words that come to mind when describing the remarkable Ryan Riley and Kimberley Duke. This duo have set themselves the task of reimagining the way we eat, so that those with a compromised sense of taste and smell can once again enjoy the experience of aroma and flavour. From humble beginnings in Sunderland to a sudden worldwide frenzy of interest last week, the pair have just launched a Covid recovery cookbook entitled Taste & Flavour, and the response has been understandably incredible.
Thursday 8 April 2021
UN RENDEZ-VOUS AVEC CÉZANNE by Rose et Marius
One of the greatest joys about perfume is that there is a never-ending stream of new companies and fragrances to discover. However, we often get blinded by the constant adverts for the latest releases from the biggest brands but, sitting quietly on the side lines, there are a multitude just waiting for their chance to shine. If you have the time to do some investigation then you’ll start to uncover some of these hidden treasures, and that’s just what happened when I came across the irresistible Rose et Marius. Their latest fragrance is called Un rendez-vous avec Cézanne, and it promises “an olfactory journey in Provence.”
Monday 5 April 2021
STEPHAN'S SIX - MONICA MANCINI
Described by The New York Times as “the glamorous vocal equivalent to diamonds flashing,” Monica Mancini is a double Grammy Award nominee. Daughter to the legendary film composer Henry Mancini, she has gone on to release five albums that truly are the perfect soundtrack to the imminent lazy summer days. So, put your feet up, grab a glass of wine, and discover Monica’s fragrance memories during “Stephan’s Six”.
Thursday 1 April 2021
MABEL'S TOOTH by Freddie Albrighton
Exactly twelve months ago I wrote an article about the realities of working from home, and I was lucky enough to speak with Doctor Barbara Mariposa about both the challenges and also the opportunities that it gave us. The final line was “Embrace working from home, revel in the control that isolation gives you, but remember to reach out if you need to.” This is exactly what self-taught perfumer Freddie Albrighton did. Originally a tattooist by trade, he used lockdown to craft a beautiful trio of scents that each display a very clear olfactory signature. Launching on Saturday 3rd April, this is a collection you won’t want to miss.
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