Thursday, 1 April 2021

MABEL'S TOOTH by Freddie Albrighton

Exactly twelve months ago I wrote an article about the realities of working from home, and I was lucky enough to speak with Doctor Barbara Mariposa about both the challenges and also the opportunities that it gave us. The final line was “Embrace working from home, revel in the control that isolation gives you, but remember to reach out if you need to.” This is exactly what self-taught perfumer Freddie Albrighton did. Originally a tattooist by trade, he used lockdown to craft a beautiful trio of scents that each display a very clear olfactory signature. Launching on Saturday 3rd April, this is a collection you won’t want to miss.

Freddie Albrighton isn’t a new name in niche perfumery, although he might be unfamiliar to more mainstream fragrance fans. This self-taught perfumer had previously collaborated on Douleur by Bogue, in partnership with Antonio Gardoni, but this is his first solo adventure. He told me that having so much time at home had actually been the catalyst for this latest release. Working on, and living with, the fragrances day in and day out meant that he was able to explore every nuance of each scent. This debut collection is a testament to his determination, passion, and absolute eye for detail.

One of the things that Freddie was very determined about was that he wanted his fragrances to be wearable as opposed to being yet another olfactory challenge. He also told me that he was conscious about wanting to attract mainstream customers that might not have explored niche before. To do this required scents that would be continually spritzed until the bottle was empty, “I want my fragrances to be worn, not collected,” and draw in a more conservative customer alongside the perfume diehards, “There’s a nod to niche in every bottle.” It’s a lot to ask, but Freddie Albrighton has succeeded.

The three fragrances are described as “novel, unique, and effortlessly wearable,” and each draws on the memories and nostalgia of love, life, and adventure. Bernadette Margaret Evelyn Teressa takes a heart of exotic florals but wraps them effortlessly in rumtopf-like fruits and amber woods. Yes it has a femininity about it, but men absolutely shouldn’t discount it. Boys on the other hand is the more unusual of the trio with its violet-imbued leather hinting at the fruity excesses of the previous night. It brought back many memories, but I won't be sharing any of them on here. However, my favourite of the trio has to be Mabel's Tooth.

The fragrance opens with the aroma of sugar covered plums, that sparklingly deep fruity quality, but very quickly it's joined by a note of honeyed tobacco. It then feels as though it leads into a spiced jasmine, expertly controlled, with a leather nuance underneath. However, the arrival of the promised note of discarded bitter coffee almost immediately seems to lock onto a vanilla sweetness to give a dark chocolate effect. Freddie then claws back the gourmand with a perfectly balanced dry cedarwood and incense before a final resin and musk pairing gives a nod to a delicate, yet fashionable, oud accord. Mabel’s Tooth is familiar whilst original, delicious yet intriguing, and absolutely irresistible.

The debut collection is available from Freddie Albrighton’s website at freddiealbrighton.com priced at £89 each for 50ml or as part of the sample set which is £14. The collection launches on Saturday April 3rd but initial stock is limited. [Samples provided by Freddie Albrighton]

1 comment:

  1. All sound really interesting, I can't wait to give them a try. Just took a look at the website and all are out of stock including the sample pack. Darn! Hopefully he can restock and ship to USA soon.

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