BRIONI EAU DE PARFUM SUAVE by Brioni

Perfume is often compared to music because of the similarities found in their creation and their make up. Whether you’re thinking about “chords”, “notes” or “accents”, the cross-over is easy to see. However, there’s another industry that also goes hand in hand with perfumery, and that’s the world of fashion. When you think about tailoring, the stitching together of multiple parts to create one complete garment could easily be compared to the mixing of multiple ingredients to create one complete fragrance. This is where we find ourselves with Brion Eau de Parfum Suave, the latest exciting perfume release from Brioni.

The story of Brioni begins in 1945 when two men combined talents to create a company that would go on to be regarded as the ultimate trend-setter in the masculine silhouette. The tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and his business partner Gaetano Savini merged creativity with entrepreneurship, and the result was an exclusive clientele dressed in the finest materials. Even from the early days, accessories featured in Brioni’s offering, but the fragrance add-on wouldn’t arrive for another sixty-four years. While the world waited, there were many milestones in the story of Brioni, with the biggest happening in 1959.

The world of fashion had always been skewed very firmly towards the feminine market, with the masculine tailoring industry more trade-show than spectacle. Well, Brioni decided that the time was right for a change, and so they held the very first Men’s Fashion Show in 1952. Still celebrating the timeless and famous silhouettes that had made the company, this elevated the artistry of tailoring, and cemented Brioni as an industry leader. This year marks their 80th birthday and, far from slowing down, the perfume line has attracted a whole new audience that have fallen under the spell of the Roman tailor’s stitching.

The first self-titled Brioni perfume arrived in 2009 but, even though there were three more successful releases in the 2010s, the company really hit its stride in 2021. The launch of their Les Eaux de Parfum collection, led by perfumer Michel Almairac, gained a worldwide following. A new version has been released each year since, and 2024 saw the arrival of a new Woody Amber variation. This time created by the team of Michael Almairac, Romain Almairac and Jérôme Epinette, they promised “a timeless, seductive fragrance with a subtle assertiveness”, and I can happily say that the trio have certainly not disappointed.

Right from the beginning of Suave you get a wonderfully smooth leather accord that is given an uplifting brightness thanks to a healthy dose of green cardamom. This assertive opening is then slightly softened by the appearance of mandarin, before you’re treated to a smoky pink pepper pairing. There’s a hint of rose geranium in the heart, with its earthy floral nuances, before a very bold hit of vetiver and cedarwood adds a timeless tweed quality to the blend. The final development of the perfume sees the promised labdanum-rich amber accord appear, with a fascinating aquatic edge, before a creamy sandalwood provides a decadent wash of refinement. Whether you’re suited and booted, or relaxed and casual, Suave is the perfect accessory.

Brioni Eau de Parfum Suave is available from the Brioni website at brioni.com, and also from Glorious Beauty, priced at £95 for 60ml and £125 for 100ml. [Sample provided by Helen McTiffen]