Stephan Matthews

Showing posts with label Cuir de Russie. Show all posts

Monday, 4 May 2026

ORIGINAL EAU DE COLOGNE by Farina

A bottle of the Original Eau de Cologne from Farina

There are many claims made in the perfume world that companies are “the original”, “the trendsetter”, “the pioneer”, but these often end up being merely cleverly-created marketing. Making a customer feel as though they're in possession of something that is, or will be, timeless is the goal of every brand when they launch a fragrance. However, when you have a documented history stretching back to 1709 then you really can shout about your achievement. Farina is the originator of the Eau de Cologne and, after too many years of under-appreciation, the company are once again triumphantly shouting about their famous creation.

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Monday, 5 August 2024

EPONA by Papillon Perfumery

A bottle of Epona perfume from Papillon Perfumery

Creating a following in the perfume industry is something fragrance companies often spend tens of thousands of pounds trying to achieve. Indeed, the actual perfume can often become secondary to the marketing machine that surrounds it. With so many fragrances and ever-emerging brands to choose from every year, you can understand how important a loyal fan base can be. Most niche companies don’t have the finances to pump into adverts and PR - their product has to speak for itself. The perfect example of this is Papillon Perfumery, and their latest Epona perfume once again proves that they are a true thoroughbred.

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Monday, 20 September 2021

THE SCENTED STEM DIFFUSER from Le Jardin Retrouvé

One thing that's guaranteed to get people thinking about home scents is surely the changing of the seasons. We naturally mark these moments with different aromas, whether that’s a new perfume or even a shower gel, but the options for scenting our homes are a little more limited. Everyone has their opinion on the effectiveness of either a candle or a room spray, but when Le Jardin Retrouvé announced that they were launching a diffuser it came with an expectation of excellence. The company have a history of successfully challenging the way things are done, and that continues with their new Scented Stem Diffuser.

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Monday, 15 March 2021

STEPHAN'S SIX - ISAAC MIZRAHI

How do you begin to describe Isaac Mizrahi? He’s a designer, an actor, a TV host, a writer, and a producer... and he is also unbelievably funny. Born in Brooklyn, he was torn between fashion and theatre, so decided to do both. He received early backing from Chanel, had a client list that included Naomi Campbell and Liza Minnelli, and also does the perfect imitation of Barbra Streisand. Isaac eventually released his autobiography, I.M. A Memoir, in 2019 but I wondered what extra scented secrets we’d discover during “Stephan’s Six”.

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Thursday, 23 July 2020

CUIR DE RUSSIE by Farina Gegenüber

You’ll often hear it levelled against the big perfume companies, and sometimes even the niche houses, that they’re constantly imitating somebody else’s successful style. Deliberately copying a fragrance is a different matter altogether, but what I’m talking about is taking a popular trend and putting your own spin on it. If you think about the many fern-like perfumes that came after Fougere Royale, or even the amber-heavy orientals that were hot on the heels of Shalimar, you can see how being inspired by the latest hit is nothing new. It was the same story in 1925 when Farina Gegenüber launched their fabulous Cuir de Russie.

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Monday, 16 December 2019

UNSCHEDULED WANDER by Elementary

Starting a new perfume company is a venture that can be fraught with delays and disasters but, if you’re lucky, can also prove to be one of the most exciting rides of your life. Everyone offers opinions on bottle styles, graphics, and even launch dates so navigating people’s good intentions can be tricky. Sometimes coming at the whole enterprise from a different angle can reap its own rewards and this is where we find ourselves with the latest addition to the perfume market. Elementary has launched Unscheduled Wander, an olfactory Time Machine that positively revels in the androgynous beauty of the chypre fragrance.

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Thursday, 23 August 2018

LEATHERBEAR by Maître Savonitto

There are two things that I love above all others when it comes to the fragrance industry, candles and Cuir de Russie. The latter is a fragrance that many companies have released, from Chanel right through to Molton Brown, but recently they have all become shadows of their former selves due to ingredient restrictions and changing tastes. One company that has risen to the challenge however is NiceBear, which is part of Maître Savonitto. They have released a candle called LeatherBear and if you imagine muscular legs in leather boots then you’re definitely on the right track. Describing it as “sexy” would be an understatement!

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Thursday, 30 November 2017

My Top Six Candles For Christmas 2017

Christmas and candles seem to go hand in hand which is why many companies release a limited edition during November and December. Not all of these special releases hit the mark though and shoppers often fall back on their tried and trusted favourites. The gentle flicker of a flame accompanied by a delicious aroma is the perfect pairing, but a candle also makes a great gift. To help you navigate the minefield I’ve chosen six candles that have impressed me during 2017 and, hold on to your hats, it includes three Christmas stunners. So, grab the matches and a glass of port as I introduce you to my top six candles for 2017.

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Thursday, 12 October 2017

GUERLAIN'S RUSSIA

Guerlain has always enjoyed an unparalleled affection amongst perfume fans and part of this is the continuing transparency that they are displaying in their current releases, and also in the rewriting of parts of its history. Over time a "good story" can cover up the true facts and it is refreshing to see these being peeled away piece by piece. As part of this openness, Guerlain allowed Thierry Wasser and Frédéric Sacone’s vintage recreations to be made available to smell at the Champs Elysees boutique and this means that we can travel to Russia, via France, and discover Impérial Russe and Cuir de Russie.

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Monday, 25 September 2017

CUIR DE RUSSIE by Le Jardin Retrouvé

The "leather revival" in the perfume world shows no signs of slowing, although to some of us it never went away in the first place. Those rich, resinous, woody scents exuded power along with a sensuality that ached for experimentation. Lashings of birch tar, labdanum and castoreum gave these fragrances a sexually charged energy that was impossible to resist. The more recent "trend" for softer suede-style scents diluted this effect and they became more refined and less dangerous. Thankfully with the rerelease of Cuir de Russie by Le Jardin Retrouvé we once again get the chance to perfume provocatively.

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Thursday, 21 September 2017

FLORIS UNLOCKS ITS ARCHIVES

You hear many companies talk about their “heritage” but it sometimes seems a little contrived and exaggerated. Add a celebrity here, change a production date there, and it becomes tricky to separate fact from fiction. One company that doesn't have this problem is Floris. Their biggest challenge is actually what to leave out. With a history dating back two hundred and eighty seven years the list of celebrity clients and perfume releases is immense, and it was always a challenge to share this with their customers. So, along with their recent store refit, Floris decided to open up their archives and reveal a few forgotten treasures.

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Thursday, 14 September 2017

RUSSIAN LEATHER by Molton Brown

The continuing push at the moment seems to be for companies to release product “collections”. By this I mean the fragrance, the shower gel, the candle, the body lotion etc. in their latest scent. Now this is actually nothing new, Coty were doing it for years, but brands have refocused their approach in an attempt to cement every new launch by offering their customers the fragrance in at least one form that they will like. Some brands miss the mark on translating the scent into the various products, but one company who continues to excel is Molton Brown. Let's take a look at their latest addition, Russian Leather.

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Thursday, 15 December 2016

Forty-Eight Hours in Paris

"Travel broadens the mind" … it’s a well-used motto, but in the case of the last two days it certainly rings true. I spent forty-eight hours in Paris meeting perfume companies, perfumers, distributors, trainers, and still found time for some retail therapy. What I came away with though was far more than flacons; I came back excited that there are still creators with a sound understanding of perfume construction that doesn't just revolve around bells, whistles and bangs. From lush florals to Russian leather, sparkling colognes to the definitive muguet, I experienced them all.

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After twenty successful years as an actor, I decided the time was right to begin a new career, and that was in the perfume industry. Scent had always been a passion of mine, and working alongside a new group of creative minds ended up being the perfect fit.

As a Brand Consultant, Evaluator, Copywriter and New Business Advisor, the variety of work is exciting, and definitely draws on my acting background. Every day brings new challenges, experiences and delights to a workplace that is crammed full of new releases, evergreens, and fading classics.

This website brings together my ramblings on all aspects of the perfume industry from bottle design to fragrance, companies to noses, and everything in between.

Opinions are my own and do not in any way represent the views of the companies mentioned. Where products or services have been provided by the companies it is stated at the end of the article.

Companies and readers are welcome to contact me by using the Send Me A Message option below.

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Monday, 4 May 2026

Monday, 5 August 2024

Monday, 20 September 2021

Monday, 15 March 2021

Thursday, 23 July 2020

Monday, 16 December 2019

Thursday, 23 August 2018

Thursday, 30 November 2017

Thursday, 12 October 2017

Monday, 25 September 2017

Thursday, 21 September 2017

Thursday, 14 September 2017

Thursday, 15 December 2016