If the past two years have taught us anything then it’s surely the importance of space. We all spent so much time stuck at home that it gave us a much-needed opportunity to look around at a lifetime of amassed belongings and ask, “Do I really need all of this?” In the world of perfume we’re always encouraged to go bigger and invest in the largest size, whether we want it or not, but a few companies are thankfully starting to go in the other direction. Le Jardin Retrouvé has just launched a new 15ml size in all of their fragrances, and there’s no better way to try out this space saver than with the classic Eau des Délices.
One thing that's guaranteed to get people thinking about home scents is surely the changing of the seasons. We naturally mark these moments with different aromas, whether that’s a new perfume or even a shower gel, but the options for scenting our homes are a little more limited. Everyone has their opinion on the effectiveness of either a candle or a room spray, but when Le Jardin Retrouvé announced that they were launching a diffuser it came with an expectation of excellence. The company have a history of successfully challenging the way things are done, and that continues with their new Scented Stem Diffuser.
One of the facts about perfumery is that everybody has very definite opinions on certain ingredients. This can often be because of a questionable fragrance in our youth, that possibly featured a particular flower, or even the memories that it may conjure up. It’s this idea of jumping to conclusions without smelling that can occasionally see us miss out on some wonderful perfumes. One of the most “judged” ingredients has to be jasmine. This potent flower has been used for centuries but not always with a delicate hand. One man that did know how to tame it was Yuri Gutsatz, and Jasmin Majorelle is a testament to his skill.
One of the most common questions that I get asked by perfume companies that I work with is, “What do we do with our end of line products?” By this they usually mean last year’s limited edition or a fragrance that has been discontinued. Many end up in discount stores, or heavily reduced during those regular online sales, but this wasn’t the route that Le Jardin Retrouvé decided to go down. With many fragrance fans now despite to get their hands on vintage perfumes, the company started a “by request” service called La Collection Historique and, because of that, Vetyver Vanille is just waiting to be rediscovered.
When a company chooses to release a new fragrance it usually goes through various hoops before it hits the shelves. From evaluation to IFRA compliance checks, most of these happen behind closed doors with the first glimpse being reserved for focus groups. Le Jardin Retrouvé have chosen a different approach for the launch of their latest fragrance and have invited perfume fans to vote for their favourite out of four options via their #PerfumeRevivalProject. Using original formulas discovered in Yuri Gutsatz’s archive, Le Jardin Retrouvé’s offerings run the gamut from solar floral to oriental, but which one did I choose?
The "leather revival" in the perfume world shows no signs of slowing, although to some of us it never went away in the first place. Those rich, resinous, woody scents exuded power along with a sensuality that ached for experimentation. Lashings of birch tar, labdanum and castoreum gave these fragrances a sexually charged energy that was impossible to resist. The more recent "trend" for softer suede-style scents diluted this effect and they became more refined and less dangerous. Thankfully with the rerelease of Cuir de Russie by Le Jardin Retrouvé we once again get the chance to perfume provocatively.
Perfume companies come and perfume companies go, with some failing to make their presence felt in an ever-expanding market. In recent years there has been a "rebirth" of companies that, after a period of dormancy, are deemed to be financially viable once more. Now this can take one of two routes, either under the control of a new owner or by the descendants of the original founder. Le Galion staged an impressive rise from the ashes thanks to a new purchaser, Nicolas Chabot, whilst Grossmith was revived by Simon Brooke, the great great grandson of its founder, John Grossmith. The latest company to reemerge is Le Jardin Retrouvé, and their story truly is one of family values.
We all get so entrenched in our family lives over the festive period that many Twitter and Facebook posts go unread. I am the first to admit that "offline" time is something that I hold very dear, especially at Christmas, but even I couldn't resist when I was asked to create a series of seven posts for Le Jardin Retrouvé. Not heard of them? They were the first "niche" fragrance house and started life in 1975 under the guidance of perfumer Yuri Gutsatz. After almost disappearing following his death in 2005, his son Michel has begun the task of reestablishing the name of Le Jardin Retrouvé for a new generation.
"Travel broadens the mind" … it’s a well-used motto, but in the case of the last two days it certainly rings true. I spent forty-eight hours in Paris meeting perfume companies, perfumers, distributors, trainers, and still found time for some retail therapy. What I came away with though was far more than flacons; I came back excited that there are still creators with a sound understanding of perfume construction that doesn't just revolve around bells, whistles and bangs. From lush florals to Russian leather, sparkling colognes to the definitive muguet, I experienced them all.
One of the facts about perfumery is that everybody has very definite opinions on certain ingredients. This can often be because of a questionable fragrance in our youth, that possibly featured a particular flower, or even the memories that it may conjure up. It’s this idea of jumping to conclusions without smelling that can occasionally see us miss out on some wonderful perfumes. One of the most “judged” ingredients has to be jasmine. This potent flower has been used for centuries but not always with a delicate hand. One man that did know how to tame it was Yuri Gutsatz, and Jasmin Majorelle is a testament to his skill.
