EPONA by Papillon Perfumery

Creating a following in the perfume industry is something fragrance companies often spend tens of thousands of pounds trying to achieve. Indeed, the actual perfume can often become secondary to the marketing machine that surrounds it. With so many fragrances and ever-emerging brands to choose from every year, you can understand how important a loyal fan base can be. Most niche companies don’t have the finances to pump into adverts and PR - their product has to speak for itself. The perfect example of this is Papillon Perfumery, and their latest Epona perfume once again proves that they are a true thoroughbred.

When Liz Moores launched Papillon Perfumery back in 2011 she could never have imagined the effect that she would have on the niche perfume market both in the UK and overseas. Her perfumes quickly became the benchmark for quality, and it’s an accolade that I truly believe has yet to be truly equalled by either independent or mainstream houses. What is it that sets Liz Moores and Papillon Perfumery apart from the other brands? Quite simply, Liz takes her time to perfect the fragrances that she releases and has never launched a perfume that isn’t perfect. However, there’s another important observation.

Papillon Perfumery has its roots, its very DNA, firmly entrenched in classical perfumery. There are no gimmicks in Liz’s formulas, no following of trend or fad, but instead a window into what fragrance used to be about. If you imagine those big hitters of the past such as Jacques Guerlain’s Mitsouko, Jean Carles’ Ma Griffe, or Germaine Cellier’s Bandit, that is the level of creation that we are talking about. Many people are described as having an innate gift, the ability to conjure the unattainable, but very few display it to the level that Liz Moores has. She is, in a word, exceptional.

So, on to the latest release, Epona. This fragrance takes the classic ingredient violet but lays it against a sensual leather. It’s not a new combination by any means, but in Liz’s hands it takes on a new life. She took her own horse as the inspiration, that special bond between human and animal, but also introduced countryside surroundings and a lot of equestrian character. If you’ve ever heard a horse contentedly galloping around a field then you’ll understand how that sound can make you feel, and it’s just one aspect that has been perfectly captured in Epona. The question is, are you ready to saddle up?

Epona opens with a delicate aromatic quality thanks to petitgrain and a measured hit of bergamot, so you get the airy quality of being raised high in a saddle. The leather accord and violet then come through, hinting at those classic Cuir de Russie blends, but it has a majesty rather than the usual animalic direction. This then leads onto an incredible “horse skin accord” which, while impossible to unpick, has touches of carnation, iris and perhaps even ylang. It’s textural while also having a warmth, and radiates playful exuberance. The development of Epona sees an earthy vetiver and dry oakmoss convey the countryside, along with a touch of hay-like tobacco, before a delicious blend of soapy sandalwood and honeyed labdanum completes an unforgettable ride. To sum up… perfume doesn’t come better than this.

Epona is available from the Papillon Perfumery website at papillonperfumery.co.uk, and also at Les Senteurs in London, priced at £147 for 50ml or £6 for 2ml. [Sample provided by Papillon Perfumery]