Monday, 16 December 2024

My Favourite Five From 2024

The title image for Stephan Matthews My Favourite Five perfume article
Twelve months is a long time in the world of perfume, where fragrance trends really can change overnight depending on the latest celebrity or influencer endorsement, but the quality of the launches this year has been incredible. We were treated to a real resurgence of violet, with the ingredient appearing in many successful releases, and also a happily renewed interest in the independent side of the industry. So, as we approach the end of 2024, it’s time to look back at twelve months of reviews on stephanmatthews.com and, while once again channelling my inner Blyton, pick My Favourite Five.

Celebrating any aspect of a company within a fragrance is a delicate balance between accessibility and excitement, and that’s exactly what I discovered in James from Atkinsons. It was created to honour their founder, James Atkinson, and was described as “a fragrance for those who dare to dream and aren’t afraid to veer from the trodden path”. It conjured his journey from Cumberland to London with notes of pink pepper and clary sage, earthy vetiver and cedarwood, and ceremonial notes of frankincense and oud. I think that James would be very pleased. Read the original article by clicking here.

A bottle of the perfume Tides of Love by Teniqua
Independent perfumeries made a significant impact in 2024 because of their ability to mix originality with trend. One company that shone through was Teniqua and their take on aquatic fragrances with Tides of Love. Based in Jersey, they wanted to celebrate the island’s amazing beaches, in the same way that the Mediterranean is often used as inspiration. So Frances Lamb combined violet with a mineral accord, included an aromatic bergamot and watery cyclamen, before introducing a mossy amber blend and animalic-edged jasmine. Tides of Love effortlessly brings the shoreline within reach. Read the original article by clicking here.

The world of perfume is often one that survives on “selling a dream” to its customers, and so finding a company that was willing to buck the trend was an exciting discovery. NOYZ set out to create a series of perfumes that were “rooted in realism” and that were inspired by “real storytelling”. Sh**ty Day gave us all the chance to raise two fingers to our troubles thanks to its uplifting notes of oceanic fig and lavender, a romantic hint of violet, along with an amber-edged tonka bean and vetiver-laced cedarwood. The perfect perfumed antidote. Read the original article by clicking here.

A bottle of the perfume Epona by Papillon Perfumery
Few perfumers cause an internet meltdown in the way that Liz Moores does when she releases a new perfume, and she did it again this year with the incredible horse-inspired Epona. Liz took this year’s trending violet ingredient but expertly laid it against a sensual leather accord, almost like those classic Cuir de Russie scents of the past, before adding a gallop of green petitgrain. An incredible “horse-skin accord” then revealed carnation, iris and ylang ylang facets, before relaxing into earthy vetiver, soapy sandalwood and honeyed labdanum. This really is the ride of the year. Read the original article by clicking here.

My final choice from the past twelve months is a company that has dared to add a new collection to their already well-stocked catalogue. Electimuss is known for their oud-laden releases, but 2024 saw them create the Explorer Collection in order to offer a more accessible range. With no compromise on quality, Spice d’Arno conjures the Arno river in Italy thanks to a blend of pink pepper and cardamom, leather-scorched thyme and rosemary, and a rose-tinged ginger. With a final pairing of resinous labdanum and myrrh, it really is a journey of discovery. Read the original article by clicking here.

So, that brings us to the end of My Favourite Five for 2024. I’m going to be taking a two week break now but I’ll be back on 6th January for more fragrant fun. Have a wonderful Christmas, a safe New Year, and thank you for all of your support over the past twelve months. [Original samples were provided by the companies]

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