Music has a link with perfume that is engrained in the very fabric of every scent that you smell. The mention of “notes” and “chords” is often cited as the main similarity, but we often forget to reference the emotional response that both of these can have on the wearer. The way a piece of music swells and crescendos absolutely mirrors the way a perfume reveals its layers, from those sparkling opening notes to the deeper base ones. This link between music and perfume is something that Leonie Sherif has based her whole Sense 'N' perfume range on, and the latest Sunburn scent is just waiting to be played.
Scent and sensuality is a pairing that perfumers often strive to achieve in both niche and mainstream fragrances, but there’s a delicate balance that needs to be struck between the sultry and the slutty. The use of powerful resins within formulas often pushes the final scent to the latter - which isn’t to everyone’s taste. Finding that ideal point where the excitement of a liaison meets the realisation of the everyday, or even the marker that a steamy encounter is over, is the perfumer's sought after Gräfenberg spot. So, to find it in a debut collection is rare, but that’s exactly what you get with Ghost of You from Mythologia Perfumes.
The archives of perfumery are strewn with the well-meaning, yet misguided scents that promised to rock the world. They launch in a blaze of glory but, after the novelty fades, it quickly becomes apparent that they’re nothing more than novelties. However, every so often a brand comes along that sets pulses, and temperatures racing. It’s not that it taps into a trend, it’s more that it reignites a passion that has become dormant. Well crafted, exquisitely packaged, with a style that is unequalled in modern perfumery. I’m talking about Ma Bête from Eris Parfums, and it definitely feels as though it was made just for me.
The great thing about the current variety of fragrances that are available is that the selection really is a worldwide affair because the days of perfume production being the sole domain of France, and closely followed by America and the United Kingdom, are long gone. It’s this wonderful chocolate box selection of scents that truly gives the customer such an eclectic mix to choose from, and at a wide range of prices. Romella International are based in Stockholm and their SG79 range has proved to be a big hit with fragrance fans, and this looks set to continue with the release of the new N°7.
Over the years the ethical arguments surrounding the way certain fragrance ingredients are harvested has caused some to disappear from the perfumer’s palette. When I say “harvested” I don’t just mean picking a few flowers or pulling up some roots, I’m referring to the killing of animals so that we could get our hands on their hidden scented gems. One such example is deer musk. A staple of many perfumes for over a century, it is now replaced with synthetic or plant based alternatives. However, the scent has recently been recreated in all of its glory by SP Parfums and proudly released as SP Musk.
As we head into autumn it’s the time when perfume companies start to release and promote their seasonal offerings. However, this is also the time when it’s good to remember that these brands have catalogues full of impressive survivors. The “newest” might not always be the right fit for you but I can guarantee that within the collections you will find some quiet gems. One such fragrance is Noix de Tubéreuse from Miller Harris. Originally launched in 2003, and created by the company’s founder, this is a magical tuberose and definitely one that deserves wider recognition. Let’s revisit Noix de Tubéreuse.
