The discussion around gender within fragrance is a topic that has really come to the fore over the past ten years. There was always an argument that the notion of “flowers are for girls” and “woods are for men” was outdated, if it ever really applied in the first place to be honest, but the advent of more fluidity around gender has meant perfume companies have had to finally start addressing the issue head on. It’s a very fine line to walk, without coming across as if you’re riding off the back of someone else’s cause, but it’s one that Superdry have successfully championed in their new duo of exciting fragrances.
There can’t be anybody reading this that hasn’t, at some time or another, walked into a department store and headed straight to the section that traditionally matched their gender. In the same way that pink or blue denoted a girl or a boy, so did the waft of flowers or aromatics that greeted you at the perfume counter. This shortcut to a “masculine” or “feminine” fragrance did work if you fell perfectly into that category, but it was harder if you were a square peg trying to fit into a round hole… and that’s what Superdry have decided to tackle.
Superdry hit on the idea to create two fragrances that used the same savoury and salty accords in the heart but then dressed up the surrounding two tiers in either a traditionally “masculine” or “feminine” way. This idea of “two sides of the same coin” means that the customer gets to choose their scented preference, always knowing that the foundation of the scent carries across both creations. Releasing a “his and hers” version of a fragrance is nothing new, but they didn’t usually actually have anything in common. That’s what makes Real Superdry 01 such an important departure.
The “feminine” red version was created by perfumer Nathalie Lorson and opens with a peony and pear duo, but which is cleverly cut through by a vibrant touch of bergamot. The promised salty accord follows quickly behind, but is more of a wave-crashed rock quality than a traditional aquatic. There’s an intriguing aromatic note, that conjures the impression of pink pepper and thyme, before a dry cedarwood and sandalwood-stroked musk completes a fragrance that, while “feminine”, cries out to be experienced by those confident nonconformists that might usually favour the more niche side of fragrance. But we’re not done yet!
Dressed in a black bottle, and created by Alexandra Monet in conjunction with Nathalie Lorson, the “masculine” incarnation almost explodes with a rush of citrus-heavy bergamot and lemon. However, the aromatic cypress, with its conifer and incense nuances, then links seamlessly with the same salty accord that you find in the red version. This cross over of the wave-crashed heart then happily gives way to another dose of pencil-like cedarwood, but is joined this time by an earthy vetiver and a dark-chocolate-esque patchouli. With a final hint of black pepper this time, you’ll be hard pushed to choose between them.
Whether you’re drawn to “red” or find yourself going back to “black”, Superdry have definitely shown us all that there’s a whole new world of fragrance out there waiting to be discovered… if you just put gender to one side. Both of the Real Superdry 01 fragrances are available exclusively from The Fragrance Shop, in stores and online, priced at £25 for 30ml, £35 for 50ml and £45 for 100ml. [Samples provided by Helen McTiffen]
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