Showing posts with label Liz Moores. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Liz Moores. Show all posts

Monday, 16 December 2024

My Favourite Five From 2024

The title image for Stephan Matthews My Favourite Five perfume article
Twelve months is a long time in the world of perfume, where fragrance trends really can change overnight depending on the latest celebrity or influencer endorsement, but the quality of the launches this year has been incredible. We were treated to a real resurgence of violet, with the ingredient appearing in many successful releases, and also a happily renewed interest in the independent side of the industry. So, as we approach the end of 2024, it’s time to look back at twelve months of reviews on stephanmatthews.com and, while once again channelling my inner Blyton, pick My Favourite Five.

Monday, 5 August 2024

EPONA by Papillon Perfumery

A bottle of Epona perfume from Papillon Perfumery
Creating a following in the perfume industry is something fragrance companies often spend tens of thousands of pounds trying to achieve. Indeed, the actual perfume can often become secondary to the marketing machine that surrounds it. With so many fragrances and ever-emerging brands to choose from every year, you can understand how important a loyal fan base can be. Most niche companies don’t have the finances to pump into adverts and PR - their product has to speak for itself. The perfect example of this is Papillon Perfumery, and their latest Epona perfume once again proves that they are a true thoroughbred.

Monday, 18 December 2023

My Favourite Five From 2023

The main image for Stephan Matthews' Favourite Five From 2023 article
I always wonder how the fragrance industry can possibly improve on its previous twelve months of releases, but 2023 has once again been an incredible year for perfume. It felt like a big melting pot of styles this year, with no particular “trend” overtaking any other, but the independent companies really did take the big corporations on at their own game. Whether you are a niche lover or a high street stalwart, there was something for everyone. So, as we approach the end of 2023, it’s time to look back at twelve months of articles on stephanmatthews.com and, while once again channelling my inner Blyton, pick My Favourite Five.

Monday, 8 May 2023

HERA by Papillon Perfumery

A bottle of the perfume HERA, created by Liz Moores for Papillon Perfumery
The reaction a customer feels towards a fragrance is something that is almost impossible for a perfumer to predict when they're creating a new release. Beyond the standard ideas of citruses being uplifting and vanilla comforting, the nature of fragrance is that it's individual to the wearer. This notion is challenged though when perfumer Liz Moores enters the line-up. She has an incredible gift of translating her inspiration into scent, and communicating it seamlessly to the wearer. This ability is instinctive, it cannot be taught, and her latest release proves once again why she is a leading British perfumer. It’s time to discover the astonishing Hera.

Monday, 20 December 2021

My Favourite Five From 2021

To say that it’s been a challenging twelve months would definitely be an understatement but, for the second year running, the fragrance industry has refused to give in. Even with partial restrictions and a decidedly uncertain future, companies have continued to do their very best to bring us some much needed scented escape. Some of the fragrances have been new, some have been classics, but all of them have kept us smiling. So, as we approach the end of 2021, I thought it would be a good moment to look back at twelve months of articles, once again channel my inner Blyton, and pick My Favourite Five.

Thursday, 29 April 2021

SPELL 125 by Papillon Perfumery

When we look at the never ending stream of reviews for any new perfume you could be forgiven for thinking that you’ve read it all before. Many of them seem to follow the press release from the company so rigidly that you can almost second guess what is going to be said. The real joy of fragrance is that different people can react in different ways to the same scent, so why not say so? This is what happened when I smelled the latest release from Liz Moores and Papillon Perfumery. Whilst it may have originally been inspired by ancient Egyptian rituals, Spell 125 took me instead to Germany and its annual celebration of Hexennacht.

Thursday, 19 December 2019

MY TOP CHOICES FROM 2019

They say that time passes quicker as we get older and that definitely seems to have been the case this year. It only feels a moment ago that we were celebrating the start of 2019 and here we are, twelve months later, getting ready to slide into a new decade. Over the past year I’ve written ninety two articles for stephanmatthews.com, with another two to come, and thought that it would be fun to revisit a few of my favourites. It was difficult to choose what to include but, from Bengals to bamboo, there were a few that really stood out for me. So, I wonder whether I've included one of your favourites?

Monday, 17 June 2019

BENGALE ROUGE by Papillon Perfumery

A new fragrance launch from a beloved company is always a source of excitement, but when the frenzy is generated by a niche perfume house’s pre-launch press samples then you know that something truly extraordinary is happening. The industry call it “pre-seeding” and it’s a way of drumming up interest, but it rarely results in the sheer number of advance reviews that Liz Moores is receiving for Bengale Rouge, the latest release from Papillon Perfumery. Luca Turin described her previous creations as having “confidence, balance, and polish,” and this newest addition to the collection echoes that observation.

Monday, 9 July 2018

PERFUMES: THE GUIDE 2018 by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez

A critic, a reviewer, or an expert of any kind is never going to be able to please everybody. What one person sees as art another will see as wallpaper, what one person hears as music another will hear as white noise, and what one person smells as perfume another will smell as "pine-fresh lavatory cleaner". Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez have released their long awaited Perfumes: The Guide 2018, the follow-up to their 2008 industry-changing Perfumes: The A-Z Guide, and in the first two weeks of its release the internet has been flooded with smiles, laughter, tears and tantrums. So, what is it all about?

Monday, 7 May 2018

STEPHAN'S SIX - DAISY WAUGH


Born into a famous literary family, Daisy Waugh forged an enviable career both as a journalist and author before starting to write under the pseudonym of E. V. Harte. The first of her Dolly Greene books featured cheap scent and tarot cards but what fragrances hold special memories for Daisy? I caught up with her at the launch of her new book, The Case Of The Fool, and managed to unearth some scented secrets for “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 5 March 2018

STEPHAN'S SIX - NATIONAL FRAGRANCE WEEK


Today marks the beginning of National Fragrance Week, a celebration and promotion of the perfume industry. Over the next seven days you will see companies vying for your attention with events and special offers so, to ease you in gently, I thought that I would take a look back at six of my favourite “Stephan’s Six” interviews from the past two years. I advise you to hold on tight as we revisit Jo Fairley, Lawrence Roullier-White, Liz Moores, Michael Angove, Monsieur Guerlain and Odette Toilette to discover their scented secrets.

Monday, 5 June 2017

DRYAD by Papillon Perfumery

Sexy is different to sensual and sultry is not the same as provocative, but what these words all have in common is that they can be applied to every fragrance from one of Britain's finest independent perfumers. If Agatha Christie is the Queen of Crime then Liz Moores is surely the Siren of Scent. She always weaves a sexuality through her fragrances and this continues with her latest addition. An already impressive range of four fragrances is joined this month by a fifth in the form of the eagerly awaited Dryad, and it promises to entice and challenge in exactly the same way that her previous creations have.

Thursday, 11 August 2016

Smell The Quality

It's back, and unfortunately it's one of those terrible phrases that you hear come out of the mouths of beauty consultants all over the wold, "you can smell the quality". It seemed to have disappeared but recently it's made a return with a vengeance. Maybe it's bad training or perhaps it's a calculated approach to selling more perfumes than the neighbouring counter? Either way it's simply not true. Whether it costs £5 or £500, you cannot "smell quality". Fragrances are designed in different styles for different customers, so what is the "quality" that you actually perceive when your spray that little card in the perfume department?

Wednesday, 11 May 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION NOMINEES 2016


On Thursday 12th May the results will be announced for the UK Fragrance Foundation Awards 2016. Four of the nominees were featured on "Stephan's Six" during 2015, and I am thrilled that 4160 Tuesdays and Papillon Artisan Perfumery are on the list alongside the usual big hitters. Leighton Denny is back for another year, along with the regular addition of Roja Dove, so let's look at these nominees and revisit the secrets that they revealed when they succumbed to "Stephan's Six".

Monday, 11 January 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - LIZ MOORES


Liz Moores founded Papillon Perfumery in 2011, and this self trained perfumer has created quite a stir with a collection of four fragrances which combine strength, lust, femininity, masculinity and euphoria. So, with a mischievous glint in her eye, what would she make of "Stephan's Six"?