There are two things that I love above all others when it comes to the fragrance industry, candles and Cuir de Russie. The latter is a fragrance that many companies have released, from Chanel right through to Molton Brown, but recently they have all become shadows of their former selves due to ingredient restrictions and changing tastes. One company that has risen to the challenge however is NiceBear, which is part of Maître Savonitto. They have released a candle called LeatherBear and if you imagine muscular legs in leather boots then you’re definitely on the right track. Describing it as “sexy” would be an understatement!
With summer beginning to fade into autumn it feels right to start reaching for slightly heavier scents, especially as the nights also start drawing in. Crisp and woody scents always usually lend themselves beautifully to the autumn season, but this year I found myself longing for something with more of a labdanum-charged sexiness as well. I’ve said many times before, “what’s old to one person is new to another,” and that is exactly how I felt when I was introduced to Army Of Lovers from LM Parfums. Originally launched in 2014, Army Of Lovers is a provocatively dangerous scent that simply cannot be ignored.
The "leather revival" in the perfume world shows no signs of slowing, although to some of us it never went away in the first place. Those rich, resinous, woody scents exuded power along with a sensuality that ached for experimentation. Lashings of birch tar, labdanum and castoreum gave these fragrances a sexually charged energy that was impossible to resist. The more recent "trend" for softer suede-style scents diluted this effect and they became more refined and less dangerous. Thankfully with the rerelease of Cuir de Russie by Le Jardin Retrouvé we once again get the chance to perfume provocatively.
Autumn feels as though it is well and truly here with the first leaves starting to change colour, the weather getting cooler and the nights beginning to draw in. With wood stocks starting to be replenished ready for open fires and thoughts turning to bonfire night, the timing of the latest perfume release from Ruth Mastenbroek couldn't be more perfect. The combination of leather, rose and oudh is nothing new, but in her talented hands the results are devilishly sensual, delightfully mysterious and truly intoxicating. With the release of Firedance, Ruth Mastenbroek shows once again why she is at the top of her profession.
Sexy is different to sensual and sultry is not the same as provocative, but what these words all have in common is that they can be applied to every fragrance from one of Britain's finest independent perfumers. If Agatha Christie is the Queen of Crime then Liz Moores is surely the Siren of Scent. She always weaves a sexuality through her fragrances and this continues with her latest addition. An already impressive range of four fragrances is joined this month by a fifth in the form of the eagerly awaited Dryad, and it promises to entice and challenge in exactly the same way that her previous creations have.
It is strange that at a time when many “niche” perfume companies are experimenting with animalic fragrances one of France’s most respected, Guerlain, chose to discontinue one of theirs. Oriental Brûlant was part of the Elixir Charnel range and arrived on the scene in 2008. It made no excuses for its overtly provocative nature and labdanum lovers were in their element with large doses of this highly sexual ingredient. Designed around women’s actual and desired sexual styles, the Elixir Charnel range was a difficult one to market but, out of the original three, where did the inspiration for Oriental Brûlant actually come from?
When I was invited last July to spend a day with Sarah McCartney of 4160Tuesdays you would have thought that I would jump at the chance. Unfortunately I could never get the dates of her perfume courses to work for me. So imagine my delight when I heard that there was space on one in January, and that I could finally go. Perfume creation is not something that is new to me, but workshops have always been a fairly formal affair with structures and briefs so I was curious what format Sarah's would take. As she is also known for being wonderfully entertaining I knew that anything could happen and probably would.
The eternal dream, a perfect night followed by a perfect day. The idea of a high energy, sexually charged experience with the perfect partner that leaves you breathless but wanting more. In perfume terms this is nothing new, but it has never gone to that pre-cigarette moment when your head is spinning and you can't catch your breath. Until now. Well, actually it was 2007, and the perpetrator of this olfactory pleasure was Bella Crane. When creating a sexually charged scent there is a fine line between wearability and provocativeness. So, let me show you your Perfect Night, and then tell me if it doesn't leave you wanting more.
