As hard as we try, time can often be cruel to both people and companies. The first flush of youth or success can be replaced by a faded lustre and an ageing appearance. Now, people can have a little bit of cosmetic help to regain their sparkle, but reviving a company is a much bigger challenge. Corporate takeovers, selling the company outside of the founder’s family, both of these can see the original ethos reduced to a shadow of its former self. So, when it was announced that Atkinsons was going to get a facelift it was met with a wave of excitement, and 24 Old Bond Street was the glorious result.
It is strange that at a time when many “niche” perfume companies are experimenting with animalic fragrances one of France’s most respected, Guerlain, chose to discontinue one of theirs. Oriental Brûlant was part of the Elixir Charnel range and arrived on the scene in 2008. It made no excuses for its overtly provocative nature and labdanum lovers were in their element with large doses of this highly sexual ingredient. Designed around women’s actual and desired sexual styles, the Elixir Charnel range was a difficult one to market but, out of the original three, where did the inspiration for Oriental Brûlant actually come from?
"The scent of summer" is a phrase that you're going to be reading a lot in the coming weeks, with each perfume company claiming that their fragrance is the true interpretation. The problem is that everyones idea of what makes up the scent of a summer holiday is usually pretty different. Some people envisage scorching sunshine, some imagine a sea-crashing surfers paradise, while some concentrate on that sugar rich candyfloss and ice cream concoction. So, with this in mind, I thought it would be fun to look at two of the most requested aromas and see where they fit into our childhood memories.
Every perfume company has exclusives and limited editions, but these cater for a very specific customer. Some people just buy fragrance because it's fun or, get ready for a bombshell, because they simply enjoy the smell! For this second group the seasonal release can really appeal if it's presented in a premium way. Alongside the regular Aqua Allegoria release, Guerlain have a tradition of issuing “travel exclusive” versions. Rose had always been a staple of the airport edition but this year’s floral is a little different. Let's journey through the past Guerlain Travel Exclusives before we discover what this year has to offer.
There are certain flowers which perfectly embody a country or region, but surely none so much as the quintessentially British Bluebell. This tranquil bloom appears at the end of April in the United Kingdom and can usually be found carpeting woodlands in a stunningly fragrant watery blue. Unfortunately it is one of the florals which refuses to give up its essential oil and so always has to be created artificially, in the same way as lily of the valley, using other essences. There are still only two interpretations which truly vie for the top spot, so let's look forward to warmer months and rediscover the Bluebell.
When Guerlain introduced the Elixir Charnel range in 2008 there were quite a few raised eyebrows at the news that this prestigious house had entered the controversial arena of "sexual" scents. With a collection aimed quite clearly at women with very distinct and adventurous sexual styles, it blew the lid off the most famous and respected historical perfumery. Sex has always sold, that is the undisputed law of retail, but what would Aimé Guerlain have thought? I hope that he would see it as a bold move to modernise a traditional style, and maybe even chuckle at the same time. So what exactly is "Elixir Charnel"?
