One of the interesting aspects of “niche” or “independent” perfumery is its ability to adapt and evolve in directions that are specific to the company. Mainstream brands often feel more pressure to conform to trends and fashions, whereas the smaller companies can take advantage of the situation by pivoting based on their customers’ demands. I’m not talking about the usual “flankers” or “limited editions”, but more the idea of offering variations based on feedback received. One company that has fully embraced this idea is ånd fragrance, with their voyage-of-discovery collaboration with Careys Secret Garden.
Niche perfumery, artisan perfumery, independent perfumery - whichever term you prefer, it’s impossible to ignore the contribution that these make to the fragrance market. They have the ability to ignore high-street trends, because they're often produced in much smaller quantities, so the customer gets to experience scent styles they won’t find in the larger department stores. One of these independent companies is Orosmo Perfumery, and their two collections offer a wonderful insight into how “niche can be wearable”. So, with summer approaching, let’s head to the sea with the wonderfully aquatic Au Bord de la Mer.
Would you be brave enough to translate your innermost memories, or even your secret places, into scent? It’s a question that many new brands ask themselves when they are thinking of launching, but often they’ll opt for more pedestrian inspirations instead. Releasing a fragrance to the world is one thing, but sharing your soul adds another layer. If the perfume isn’t well received, how does that reflect upon your experiences? When Frances Lamb launched Teniqua it was exactly this route that she went down, but thankfully with universal praise. Tides of Love sees her swap memories for places, and the result is an absolute joy.
The scent of the sea has been a fragrance trend that, whilst arguably exemplified by the classic L'eau d'Issey pour Homme, continues to be experimented with constantly by perfume houses around the world. This idea of capturing the aroma, the feel, and the look of the ocean has been presented in many forms, but not all of them have managed to capture both the majesty alongside the delicacy. For the launch of their new eau de toilette, Fragonard have thrown their hat into the ring and introduced a second aquatic fragrance to their male range, and it’s a celebration in the form of Bleu Riviera by Jordi Fernández.
The world of perfumery is built upon multiple traditions, whether that’s a fragrance's classification or through to those pesky note pyramids, but one of the most obvious is the notion of how people discover a perfume. The majority will still go into a store and smell the latest release on a paper blotter, before taking the plunge and spraying themselves liberally, and this might lead to the gift of a precious 2ml sample from the salesperson. Now this has been the norm for decades, but Artimique is challenging this with her beautiful Heart Charm, and the UK-based Sainte Cellier is backing her every step of the way.
One of the continuing trends in the niche fragrance market is the appearance of the “self-taught perfumer”. Originally you had to go to one of the established perfumery schools, or work under a master perfumer, to perfect your sensory muscles, but all of that has now changed. With the ever-increasing online courses, as well as in-person taster sessions, the secret layers of the industry are being peeled away to allow a more diverse offering to customers who are hungry for originality. Now, the results from self-taught perfumers are very variable, but the release of Soapy Heart by Shloksha shows what’s possible with commitment.
When you think about the various possible inspirations for perfume then the list usually includes pretty standard ideas like music, cities, ingredients, memories etc. This is because these are the “inspirations” that are so often trumpeted by the many fragrance companies. Obviously there are others that can be called on to ignite the creativity, but one of the boldest was surely embraced back in 2013. Acclaimed perfumer Pia Long was at that point in her career working for LUSH and, due to an unexpected track change, the now legendary 29 High Street perfume was born. Eleven years later, it’s time to revisit the fragrance's story.
“Travel broadens the mind” is probably one of the most often-used sayings in the English language. There’s no doubt that surrounding yourself with new cultures, new locations, and even new cuisines is something that is guaranteed to have a lasting impression. These experiences shape who we are, and the ripples stay within us for the rest of our lives. Now, travel comes at a cost, and certain locations aren’t always available to everyone, but that’s where the magic of fragrance can help. By conjuring a place, the wearer can go some way to imagining how it feels to visit, and Gallivant are promising just that with their new Nida perfume.
The sunlight is finally starting to break through the grey clouds of winter, which definitely seem to have lasted far too long into spring, and so our thoughts start to eagerly jump forward to sandy beaches and chilled cocktails. Us Brits have an innate habit of declaring any temperature above 10°C as a warm day, and so it’s the perfect time to discover a fragrance that seamlessly suits the exit of spring and the coming of summer. Atkinsons is a company that has always managed to offer both the effervescent uplifters at the same time as the more resinous raunchies, and Mint & Tonic perfectly sparkles into the former.
