Stephan Matthews

Showing posts with label Rose. Show all posts

Monday, 9 June 2025

PURNIMA FRAGRANCES - Scented For Success

The dark days of the pandemic may seem like a lifetime ago now, as we all busy ourselves once again on life’s hamster wheel, but it has meant a massive shift in the perfume market. Those two years focused our attention away from personal fragrance, that beautiful juice found inside a glass bottle, and instead made us think about the scent of our surroundings. With so much time spent indoors, and without the option to travel, we all wanted some scented escape. That initial fragranced flurry saw many candle brands unfortunately fall by the wayside, but the demand had been ignited and it heralded the arrival of Purnima Fragrances.

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Monday, 3 March 2025

ALMOND by Widian

The question of how a perfume company can expand its range, and at the same time potentially attract a new set of customers, is one that every brand has to eventually ask itself. It’s very easy to continue in exactly the same vein, especially if you’re experiencing success, but this can also actually limit a company’s overall growth. If you’re famous for exceptional extrait strength perfumes then the obvious route is to move into the more affordable Eau de Parfum concentration, but this needs to be done sensitively. One company that has achieved this seamlessly is Widian, and their Almond fragrance is absolutely delicious.

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Monday, 22 January 2024

ROCKIN' ROSE by EAU.MG

A bottle of the Rockin' Rose perfume from EAU.MG

Perfumery, like anything else that has an artistic bent, is often less about creating something new and more about presenting something in a different light. The ingredients that are open to a perfumer are, with the exciting advances in synthetics, almost limitless, but there are a few core ones that always demand attention. Patchouli, iris, vanilla, jasmine - all of these have an inbuilt familiarity that feels safe, but showcasing them in original ways is what customers are look for. Now, rose is such a well-known ingredient that finding an original take on it can be hard, but that’s exactly what you get with EAU.MG’s Rockin’ Rose.

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Monday, 15 August 2022

DOUBLE MYSTERY by Franck Muller

Franck Muller Double Mystery Perfume Bottle and Agatha Christie Five Little Pigs Book

Everybody loves a good mystery, even if we don’t always end up solving it. Whether it’s a TV crime drama or a classic piece of fiction, attempting to follow the clues and unmask the villain is the perfect way to idle away a couple of hours. Now, pairing perfume with literature is nothing new, and many fragrances have been inspired by the characters and settings from famous books, but marking a celebration with one is even more fun. So, it’s time to litteraly mix the undisputed Queen of Crime with the actual hands of time as we discover the ravishingly intriguing Double Mystery from Franck Muller.

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Thursday, 9 May 2019

DELICATE ROMANCE by Lola's Apothecary

In the perfume calendar there can’t be a more beautiful month than May because, after a year of hard pruning and careful tending, the expansive rose fields of Grasse and Bulgaria succumb to the start of their annual harvest. This is still carried out by hand and so is incredibly labour-intensive. When you think that it requires around ten thousand kilograms of rose blossoms to produce one kilogram of oil then you can understand the sheer workload that is involved. Now, we can’t all go and pitch in with the pickers but we can bring a little of the rose scented magic home in the form of Delicate Romance by Lola’s Apothecary.

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Monday, 16 July 2018

EAU DE COLOGNE - LA VÉRITABLE by Cadentia

Summer is the perfect time to revisit the classic cologne, and by this I mean a fragrance that is structured in the traditional way rather than merely exhibiting a “freshness” and “effervescence” that has become associated with the style. Many companies offer scents which are described as “cologne” but have little to do with this wonderfully simple form of perfumery, but one brand still proudly specialising in these uplifting scents is Cadentia. A favourite in France, but fairly unknown outside of its native country, the company has just launched their Eau de Cologne - La Véritable range and the results are beautiful.

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Monday, 20 November 2017

ORCHARD BLOSSOM by Bronnley

Now that the first frosts have really fallen on the British countryside there are two things that are forefront in everyone's minds. Firstly, the sprouts that you buy will be slightly sweeter in taste (my mother always swore that the frosts did this to these divisive greens) and secondly, people will begin reaching for their “winter” scents in ernest. However, for those ladies that prefer a fresher scent during the colder months, because they long for the warmth that Spring promised, help is at hand in the form of this year's release from Bronnley, in collaboration with the Royal Horticultural Society. Say hello to Orchard Blossom.

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Thursday, 15 June 2017

LONDON by Gallivant

Inspiration comes from many sources but our memories can provide some of the most unusual and exciting. There is something about the way our brains store information about a place or a situation that can result in quite an abstract recollection, and it's this that Nick Steward has used to create the debut range from Gallivant, his own perfume company. After a career spent working for some of the industry's top perfume brands, Nick felt that the time was right to branch out on his own. So, let's take a closer look at London, one of his first four fragrances, which is far more than just Earl Grey and sandwiches.

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Thursday, 15 September 2016

POPPY MEADOW by Bronnley

Collaborations in the perfume market are nothing new, although a large number of them have resulted in some rather dubious creations. So, it was with some nervousness that I approached the RHS Collection by Bronnley, and in particular their new addition to the range, Poppy Meadow. A company whose foundations were built on a floral bedrock would seem the perfect organisation to work with the Royal Horticultural Society, but would their scents be challenging florals or merely shadowy petals? Let’s head down to the garden and see exactly what awaits with the 2016 release, Poppy Meadow.

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Monday, 1 August 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - VICTORIA CHRISTIAN

If your father owned one of the most luxurious perfume brands then it seems inevitable that you would end up sharing his passion, but for Victoria Christian it was a performing career which first interested her. After studying Ballet and Theatre Studies at Urdang Academy, and performing in London’s West End, she eventually chose to give up the stage and has become the Brand Ambassador for Clive Christian Perfumes. So, what secrets would we discover during “Stephan’s Six”?

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Thursday, 28 July 2016

ROSA RIBES by 4160 Tuesdays

The advantage of being a small, independent perfumery is that you can sometimes make a fragrance "just for fun" and in small quantities. After all, the ingredients are already on the shelves and you have a stack of empty bottles. Well, this is exactly what Sarah McCartney has done with her latest, semi-secret, Rosa Ribes. In essence it's a sort of "crowd funded" fragrance, but in actual fact you are buying something far more personal. With an initial run of just five litres there is not much to go around. So with that in mind, read on, get your credit card ready and discover something truly special from 4160 Tuesdays.

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Thursday, 2 June 2016

Does HABANITA Still Have Her Bite?

“Le parfum le plus tenace du monde” was a huge statement to make about any fragrance, but the one that was being described definitely deserved the accolade. Outside of its home town it translates as “the longest lasting perfume in the world”, and it is interesting to note that this “tenacious” fragrance actually came about by accident. I’m talking about Habanita by Molinard, and in her ninety-fifth year it’s time we looked back on this sensual grand dame. How did she become such a phenomenon, what does it share with Chanel No.5, and are the rumours of a discontinuation really true?

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Thursday, 7 April 2016

Estée Lauder's Scented Decadence

Those cautious steps into a room that you knew were out of bounds were often met with the scent of powder and perfume, along with an array of bottles and jars. Hanging heavily in the air you didn't know exactly what it was as a child, but when you rediscover those scents in adulthood the feeling can be startling. Regulations and reformulation mean that some of them have been lost forever. Fragrance free, paraben free, lanolin free, the list of changes since those early days is long. Obviously a lot of these were necessary but have we lost a window into the past? Not completely. I stumbled across my own time machine by accident a few weeks ago, and it's all thanks to Estée Lauder.

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Thursday, 24 September 2015

Princesse Pauline - Galimard's New Perfume

When Parfumerie Galimard launched Napoléon in February it was originally intended as a unisex fragrance. It had a wonderfully floral heart but was tempered by the more masculine base. However, it quickly became clear that it was appealing more to men than women, and so a female equivalent was needed. The fragrance had to be something that was new for the company but also one that wouldn't compete with the others already in their range. Interestingly, for a long time Galimard had stayed away from a typical rose scent, and so this seemed the perfect opportunity to create one.

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Wednesday, 10 June 2015

ENJOLI - A Woman CAN Have Everything

A fragrance for the modern woman who wanted it all; a career, a husband, and to still look sexy as she read her children a bed-time story. My personal experience of the latter is that you're usually exhausted and covered in baked beans! Created by Charles of the Ritz in 1978, Enjoli promised an "eight hour perfume for the twenty-four hour woman". Boasting the female ability to "bring home the bacon, fry it up in a pan and never, never, never let you forget you're a man", the Enjoli woman allowed her husband to think he was in charge, although really she was. So, thirty seven years later, has the perfume stood up to changing tastes?

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Monday, 1 June 2015

SOPHIA - Wear It With Passion

In 1981 Sophia Loren declined an offer to play the iconic role of Alexis Colby in "Dynasty", and so the part famously went to Joan Collins. However, the same year did see the release of the perfume SOPHIA by Coty. Described as “the fragrance of living and loving”, Sophia Loren told women to “wear it with a passion”. With an Italian sexuality that she was famous for, that message was clear. Thirty-five years later she would return to the world of fragrance in Dolce & Gabbana's Rosa Excelsa campaign, but for now, after a cold shower, I gently caressed the bottle to see whether the original passion could be rekindled!

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Thursday, 28 May 2015

CHIQUE Chypre

The chypre fragrance was to the seventies what the Floral Oriental would be to the eighties, and there were lots to choose from. With a complete contrast to the emerging "youth" scents, that were full of bouncy freshness, and even the gloriously "simple" Penhaligon's florals, which were actually far from simple, the chypre provided a scent full of maturity and elegance. The most famous chypre of the Seventies was surely Charlie by Revlon, although it was marketed as an Aldehydic Floral, but Yardley wanted a piece of the action. Their release was the powerful CHIQUE, and this oakmoss overdose is still in production.

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Saturday, 16 May 2015

NAPOLEON by Galimard

When Galimard were approached by "L’Association Action Nationale des élus pour la Route Napoléon" to create a perfume to celebrate the bicentenary of the passage of the Emperor from Golfe-Juan to Grenoble, Chantal Roux, Galimard’s co-owner, began by researching the man himself. Interestingly she found that Napoleon possessed an excellent sense of smell. He loved the scent of rose, orange water and violet, and as he was from Corsica had also grown up with the aroma of the scrubland. Any research on Napoleon will always reveal his love of the ladies, so Chantal thought it important to bring feminine notes into the fragrance in a way that meant it could be enjoyed by both men and women. On the 20th February 2015 Napoléon was launched at Galimard’s factory in Grasse.

So, a perfume inspired by a man who adored Eau de Colognes. Can it work?

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Friday, 15 May 2015

FOREVER KRYSTLE by Charles of the Ritz

The 1980s was the decade of shoulder pads and big hair, and it also gave rise to many perfumes that matched. Those ten years saw an incredible output of fragrances and it was impossible to keep up with each one. This meant that so many slipped under the radar. One that proved incredibly popular however was Forever Krystle from Charles of the Ritz. It was created to tap into the success that the television series Dynasty was enjoying at the time and the heroine, Krystle Carrington, was chosen to be the inspiration. Originally released in 1984, it’s time to see if the years have been kind.

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After twenty successful years as an actor, I decided the time was right to begin a new career, and that was in the perfume industry. Scent had always been a passion of mine, and working alongside a new group of creative minds ended up being the perfect fit.

As a Brand Consultant, Evaluator, Copywriter and New Business Advisor, the variety of work is exciting, and definitely draws on my acting background. Every day brings new challenges, experiences and delights to a workplace that is crammed full of new releases, evergreens, and fading classics.

This website brings together my ramblings on all aspects of the perfume industry from bottle design to fragrance, companies to noses, and everything in between.

Opinions are my own and do not in any way represent the views of the companies mentioned. Where products or services have been provided by the companies it is stated at the end of the article.

Companies and readers are welcome to contact me by using the Send Me A Message option below.

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Monday, 9 June 2025

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Monday, 22 January 2024

Monday, 15 August 2022

Thursday, 9 May 2019

Monday, 16 July 2018

Monday, 20 November 2017

Thursday, 15 June 2017

Thursday, 15 September 2016

Monday, 1 August 2016

Thursday, 28 July 2016

Thursday, 2 June 2016

Thursday, 7 April 2016

Thursday, 24 September 2015

Wednesday, 10 June 2015

Monday, 1 June 2015

Thursday, 28 May 2015

Saturday, 16 May 2015

Friday, 15 May 2015