Atkinsons began life in 1799 and, famously, sold pots of rose scented hair pomade that was made from bears’ grease. Now, whilst this might not sound appealing today, this one product took London by storm and the company’s reputation was secured. Their grooming range increased to include Atkinsons Curling Fluid and the Old Brown Windsor Soap but, most importantly, their original Eau de Cologne. Completely different to the Italian ones of the time, it truly captured the imagination of nineteenth century England, and even George IV appointed them as perfumer to the royal family in 1826.
It was following the Second World War that the company would see their darkest period however with customers switching to the newer, more fashionable, brands. They continued to produce excellent quality products, unfortunately the post-war shoppers wanted something different. Unilever had owned the company since 1940 but, sixty-two years later, it started a bit of a conveyer-belt of owners. The whole brand was boldly relaunched in 2013 with new bottles and reformulations, but its sale to EuroItalia in 2020 gave it the shot in the arm that it needed to once again take on the big houses and fashionable releases.
The fragrance opens brightly with bergamot, pink pepper, and a touch of herbaceous clary sage - bringing to mind James’ original excitement at a journey from Cumberland to London - but there’s also an early lime and violet pairing that delicately reinforces those opening Georgian years. As the perfume develops it brings in an earthy blend of vetiver, patchouli and cedarwood which, while signalling London streets, is again a scented hark back to his expansive home county. Interesting, a “white flower accord” appears later in the scent journey, perhaps celebrating his later successes, before a final note of frankincense and tempered oud adds a ceremonial quality that perfectly completes this ode to James’ intrepid spirit.
James is available from the Atkinsons website at atkinsons1799.com, and also from Escentual, priced at £170 for 100ml. [Sample provided by Atkinsons]
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