CÔTE VERMEILLE by Karen Timson

The question of what inspires us, or what we find inspirational, is something that is intensely personal to each of us. What one person finds extraordinary another may find pedestrian. This also carries over to perfume. Finding the inspiration for a new fragrance, when nearly everything has already been done, is the continual challenge of every perfumer. We’ve had towns, we’ve had desserts, we’ve even had the scents of arousal, but these seem to be on a loop that return every few years. What is more unusual is being inspired by a building, but that’s exactly what we find in Côte Vermeille, the new release from Karen Timson.

The name Charles Rennie Mackintosh is one that resonates across the world for his unique style that blended art, architecture, and design. Born in Glasgow in 1868, he trained as an architect and became famous for his role in what was called the Glasgow Style, which was a form of Art Nouveau. Unusual for the time, he often worked alongside his wife, Margaret Macdonald, and he proudly said of her, “Margaret has genius, I have only talent”. Now considered one of Scotland’s most important creatives, this combination of genius and talent is what is on show at 78 Derngate.

Known for its bold, quirky interior design, 78 Derngate is a fascinating gem that’s found in Northampton. At first glance, it’s an ordinary Georgian townhouse, but once you step inside, you find striking geometric patterns, dramatic colour schemes, and clever design touches that feel surprisingly modern. It was created for the Bassett-Lowke family in 1916, who loved cutting-edge style, and Charles Rennie Mackintosh really let loose with his ideas. Today, the house is a museum, and wandering through it feels a bit like stepping into an artwork, and it’s this mix of character and creativity that inspired Karen Timson to create Côte Vermeille.

Karen Timson is no stranger to the world of niche perfume, having created a successful collection of six fragrances, and her seventh continues her run of being inspired by the unusual. Côte Vermeille is the embodiment of the creative elements found at 78 Derngate, the only house that Mackintosh designed in England, but it also includes references to South West France. This was a region that he visited, and settled in for four years, and so featuring Mediterranean citruses in the scent was a clever way to reference the watercolour paintings that he made of the region. So, are you ready for a scented trip to Northampton?

Côte Vermeille opens with a carnation-laden bergamot and sweet orange, so you’re immediately placed in beautifully vintage territory, before a gloriously bright rose comes headlong through the centre. The rose was a graphic signature of Mackintosh, and so its inclusion, alongside a tempered jasmine, is a fitting tribute. This floral heart is then supported by a buttery iris, so it’s smoother rather than powdery, before a touch of ylang ylang again hints at those decadent designs. The development of the perfume finds a delicately wooded blend of patchouli and tonka bean, but a hint of labdanum conjures heavy drapes and waxed floors. With a parting wash of white musk, Côte Vermeille builds on the famous carnation fragrances of history, but adds a romantically original Karen Timson motif over the top.

Côte Vermeille is available from the Karen Timson website at karentimson.co.uk and is priced at £80 for 50ml and £15 for 10ml. [Sample provided by Karen Timson]