MUSCAT by Ormonde Jayne

As autumn draws to a close, there’s a definite change in the air. The days are shorter, the temperatures are falling, and the lighter fragrances of summer seem less appealing than something with a little more warmth. It’s a particularly good time to explore La Route de la Soie, the collection from Ormonde Jayne inspired by the ancient Silk Road and the extraordinary exchange of ingredients, cultures and ideas along its trading routes. With fragrances drawing on everything from exotic flowers to spices and resins, there’s plenty to discover as winter approaches. One that feels especially appropriate for the season is Muscat.

Ormonde Jayne was founded by Linda Pilkington, whose interest in fragrance began long before she opened her first London boutique in 2001. After years spent travelling and exploring different cultures, she began creating scented candles, including a commission for Chanel that helped establish her business. Perfume soon followed, with the brand developing a reputation for unusual ingredients, thoughtful compositions and a distinctly British approach to craftsmanship. Ormonde Jayne continues to manufacture its fragrances in England, maintaining the independence and attention to detail that have characterised the business from the beginning. Linda’s curiosity about ingredients remains central to everything the house creates.

The Ormonde Jayne portfolio offers several ways to explore the brand’s approach to perfumery. The Signature Collection includes established favourites such as Ormonde Woman, Champaca and Tolu, while Four Corners of the Earth draws inspiration from Linda’s travels, with fragrances including Montabaco, Qi and Nawab of Oudh. La Route de la Soie takes a different geographical journey, following the historic Silk Road through a series of fragrances named after places associated with its trading history. First introduced in 2020, the collection has expanded over the years, offering everything from delicate florals to richer, spicier compositions with a distinctly gourmand character.

Introduced in 2021, Muscat takes its name from the capital of Oman, a city with a rich trading history and longstanding connections to the ancient routes between East and West. Its position within La Route de la Soie makes perfect sense, drawing inspiration from a destination associated with centuries of cultural exchange and the movement of precious goods. The fragrance explores a warmer, more opulent side of the collection, with a rich, spicy character that reflects its geographical inspiration. The contemporary approach brings together traditional Middle Eastern influences with the elegance associated with Ormonde Jayne.

Muscat is a wonderful choice for the colder months, particularly if you enjoy fragrances with a rich, comforting warmth. From the first spray, there's a lovely combination of sweetness and spice, with dates and saffron giving the opening an almost indulgent quality, alongside a velvety rose. What I particularly enjoy is how this initial sweetness gradually develops into something deeper, with frankincense introducing a gentle smokiness that works beautifully alongside the softer, nutty character of halwa. As the fragrance settles, oud brings a decadent richness, while oakmoss adds an earthy quality that contrasts beautifully with the sweeter notes. The warmth of the spices remains, with vanilla softening the edges and creating a wonderfully rounded finish. It's this balance of sweetness, spice and wood that makes Muscat so appealing, especially as autumn gives way to winter.

Muscat is available from the Ormonde Jayne website at ormondejayne.com, and also escentual, priced at £175 for 88ml and £35 for 10ml. [Sample provided by Escentual]