Thursday 21 November 2019

CAPRI by Berdoues

Reinvention is often seen as the way to keep perfume companies relevant in the fast paced world of “here today and gone tomorrow.” Unfortunately many that go down this path lose sight of the special magic that made them successful in the first place, and so end up pushing their loyal followers away. A wonderful example of how to actually make this process seamless is Berdoues and, in particular, the latest addition to their Grands Crus Collection. By taking inspiration from the past and mixing it with a little Mediterranean magic, Berdoues have added some much-needed sunshine to the winter months in the form of Capri.

You might not be immediately familiar with the name Berdoues but I can guarantee that, at some point, your paths will have crossed with this historic company. It was founded in 1902 by Guillaume Berdoues in the French town of Toulouse and quickly became synonymous with the production of colognes. Now, a genuine fascination with the art of perfumery saw the company expand into full bodied scents, which would now be described as “fine fragrance”, and they started to secure a firm reputation for quality. However, things would not always be rosy for the family, and difficult times were ahead.

Fashionability can be a fickle friend and, in the case of Berdoues, it didn’t remain loyal. This once sought after company found itself languishing in forgotten corners and, to many people, it became associated with simple soliflor creations such as violet and rose. With a brand that had stayed in family control, it would take a new generation to breathe life back into this once-famous company. That person would be Sophie Berdoues, the CEO and great-granddaughter of the founder, who conjured up the idea of the Grand Crus Collection with a promise to offer “unique interpretation of olfactory identity.”

The collection took its inspiration from specific regions around the world, with creations such as Hoja de Cuba and Maasï Mara, but it was decided to increase the range to also include a limited edition trio by the name of the Cruise Collection. Focusing on three stunning summer destinations, Berdoues offers us “an olfactory journey that evokes liberty, escape and discovery.” Koh Phi Phi takes us to a tuberose and ylang strewn Thailand, Bora Bora sees us journey to a sunshine and tiaré enriched French Polynesia, but the star of the collection has got to be Flavian Laurendeau’s uplifting Mediterranean inspired Capri.

Berdoues previously had a scent by the name of Capri but, under Flavian’s hand, the latest incarnation becomes a citrus explosion that is mouth-watering addictive. It opens with the perfect blend of bergamot and sweet mandarin, which epitomises Capri’s sunny aspect and sparkling sea, but a note of gentian adds a subtly herbaceous touch to the blend. In the background there is the merest hint of rose for colour but the citrus quality remains dominant throughout. As the fragrance develops an elegantly dry cedarwood appears and, alongside a whisper of tonka bean, makes Capri a jewel for the winter months.

The Cruise Collection, which features Capri, is available from selected stockists including Harvey Nichols and Jovoy priced at £54 for 50ml. [Sample provided by Aspects Beauty]

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