Monday, 6 July 2020

OLD SPORT by 4160 Tuesdays

When you buy your latest fragrance from a department store on online, you’re one of the important people that decides if the industry’s idea of what is going to be a “trend” is actually correct. They’ve got it wrong in the past, and it's absolutely guaranteed that they'll get it wrong at some point in the future, but the current explosion of fougère fragrances was definitely correctly foretold. This classic style of scent had been side-lined over the years in favour of the latest and brightest releases but they’ve recently started to fight back. One great fougère that should be in everybody’s collection is Old Sport by Sarah McCartney.

Inspiration comes from many sources and often it’s the unexpected ones that result in the greatest triumphs. These unusual projects can free up the restrictions that we often get bogged down with, and allow our imaginations to go off in new directions. This was exactly what happened to Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays back in 2016. She was asked to create two fragrances that could be featured at the Gatsby Living Literature event in Bloomsbury. Devising a duo of scents is not a difficult request in itself but the fragrances would need to directly relate to The Great Gatsby and the period.

Sarah was no stranger to creating perfumes that were period specific, she had previous form with her Vintage Cities collection and the wartime inspired Goodbye Piccadilly, but this time it was decided that the two fragrances would only use ingredients that were fashionable at the time. So, the book was set in 1922 and F. Scott Fitzgerald finished the first draft after a move to the French Riviera, so it was clear that a relaxed period elegance was needed to conjure up the scents of the jazz age. After all, who could resist a return to a time of decadence?

The two fragrances naturally turned into a masculine and feminine choice. An Excess of Carelessness became a rich floral bouquet with a dose of heliotropine whilst Old Sport revived the classic fougère style. This type of fragrance had first been introduced in 1882 in Houbigant’s Fougère Royale, and quickly became the ultimate in gent’s perfumery. It had taken inspiration from the imaginary scent of a fern, and featured the newly discovered coumarin, but ended up having an entire fragrance family named after it. The composition of fougère scents has dramatically varied over the years, but Old Sport is a return to archetypal original.

The fragrance opens with an immediate pairing of bergamot and lavender, so you get that uplifting combination of citrus alongside the wonderfully campherous aromatic. This remains dominant for a considerable time but notes of violet and sandalwood start to emerge through the centre. The almond-like coumarin, the star ingredient, helps to give the sandalwood a delicious creaminess that is then delicately offset by touches of earthy oakmoss. Because this was designed as a period scent, you’re also treated to traces of ethically sourced civet that helps to add a velvet warmth to the base of arguably one of the best fougères on the market.

Old Sport is available by request by contacting 4160 Tuesdays and is priced at £30 for 15ml, £55 for 30ml, £85 for 50ml, and £127.50 for 100ml.

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