Monday 30 May 2022

CAREYS SECRET GARDEN by ånd fragrance

Carey's Secret Garden fragrance bottle called The Orangery by Simon Constantine
There can’t be many people that haven’t, at some point in their lives, wished that they could momentarily escape from the world by disappearing into their own private space. That wonderful thought of tranquillity and nature rubbing along with each other hand in hand. This idea of an undisturbed place was immortalised in Frances Hodgson Burnett‘s famous 1911 book, the Secret Garden. Now,
Simon Constantine’s discovery of his “secret garden” was just as exciting, although a little less manicured, and he’s chosen to immortalise it in a strictly limited edition perfume release. So, are you ready to hunt out the green door in the ivy?

Simon Constantine is a name that has become synonymous with eco-niche perfumery. From his beginnings with LUSH through to Gorilla Perfumes, and finally now with his own range of ånd fragrances, he has championed the combining of originality with ecological concerns. This has resulted in a range of fragrances that both support indigenous populations and also have a low impact on the environment. It’s this commitment to giving back that has seen ånd fragrances recognised as leading the way in “corporate social responsibility”, and he’s showing the big companies how it should really be done.

Careys Secret Garden is Simon’s latest venture and has a very personal family connection. The garden had lain undiscovered and undisturbed for over 40 years when his parents recently purchased it along with the accompanying house. It wasn’t even listed on the sales guide. Simon’s children were the first to discover it while playing, and it was decided to restore this walled garden to its former glory. To say this was a mammoth task would be an understatement, but Careys Secret Garden is now finally open to the public, and this is where the idea for the fragrances came from.

Carey's Secret Garden fragrance bottle called The Orangery by Simon Constantine
The process of putting a garden back together, and deciding where everything should go, is a little like constructing a perfume. You need to consider the individual ingredients, how they work together in the final scent, but also provide the foundations to give it support. The restoration of the garden was handled in exactly the same way. Walls were repaired, the layout was planned, and the various sections were planted up with both scented and attractive plants. So, to celebrate the reopening, Simon has created a “deconstructed” fragrance that mirrors this process, and the result is a stunning cologne along with two extra layering scents.

The main focus of the fragrance comes in the form of The Orangery. Inspired by the Victorian love of having citrus fruits in their greenhouses, it opens with a note of sherberty lemon along with an arrestingly green galbanum and bergamot pairing. This combination conjures up the idea of sunlight through glass, but there’s also an herbaceous lavender and clary sage accord that hints at the aromatic beds that are just beyond the door. The citrus sweetens as it dries and reveals a touch of orange, with even a watery nod to the slightly steam-filled greenhouse. Transient yet stunning when worn alone, but there’s much more to come.

The heart of the fragrance is represented in the form of The Rose Wheel and, while this can be worn alone, it's given an exciting brightness when layered underneath The Orangery. It’s based on the central architectural feature at the heart of the garden and displays a dense rose floral supported by a rose geranium. However, the use of calendula adds a chocolatey plum note, given a delicate bitterness by a touch of patchouli, before a citrus sappiness hints that the sun is hitting the velvety petals after a light rain shower. With possibly a hint of labdanum in the base, this truly is a ravishingly rich rose fragrance.

Carey's Secret Garden fragrance bottles called The Rose Wheel and Veteran Oak by Simon Constantine
The final extra is Veteran Oak, and this is the base of the deconstructed fragrance. This represents the central majestic tree that’s in the garden and conjures up the history and safety that is found beneath its branches. The promised oakwood absolute delivers a sweetened rum quality, almost like aged barrels, before a raisin-like aroma draws in a dry vetiver and almond pairing. The powdery iris then helps to cut back through the sweetness and returns us to the dryness beneath the branches. A final touch of warm hay and tonka bean completes this fantastic additional fragrance, which must surely be heading for a solo release?

The deconstructed cologne is limited to 100 bottles and is available from the ånd fragrance website at priced at £29. It forms the current ånd adventurer subscription box, although the subscription can be cancelled if you only want to receive this set. You can click on the image below to read my “Stephan's Six” interview with Simon Constatine. [Fragrances were purchased]

No comments:

Post a Comment