Monday, 3 April 2017

STEPHAN'S SIX - EMMANUELLE MOEGLIN


Emmanuelle Moeglin trained at ISIPCA in Versailles from 2006-2008 before going on to found The Experimental Perfume Club in London. Alongside holding regular classes in perfumery for novices right through to experienced perfumers she now also has her own consultation and creation business. With a career that includes PUIG, L’Oreal and Symrise, what would we learn about Emmanuelle during “Stephan’s Six”?

What is the first smell that you can remember?
It’s not technically the first smell that I can remember but my first full awareness. When I got into ISIPCA it was the first time that I was truly aware of being surrounded by fragrance all day long. I’d loved perfume since I was about twelve, but it wasn’t like I was a perfume nerd at five years old. I was just a normal child. Even a little bit before ISIPCA I did my first internship at Givuadan when I was sixteen and I had headaches all day long from the ingredients. It was horrible. So I guess this idea of being in a lab and the smell at Givaudan was my first memory.

What was the first perfume you remember your mum or dad wearing?
It would be Fahrenheit by Dior for my Dad. It’s bizarre because he’s really not faithful to one fragrance and changes even more so now because I’m always giving him different stuff. I remember when I was a kid I hated Fahrenheit because it was so powerful and quite sharp. Then, being in the business of fragrance, I learned to like it because it’s an amazing scent and iconic in terms of history and structure.

What was the perfume of your twenties?
I didn’t wear fragrance when I was very young but I think that my first perfume was Eden Cacharel, which I don’t think exists anymore. I’m an eighties kid and grew up in the nineties so Eden Cacharel was perfect for my generation because it was a very light aqua fragrance. I remember how it looked, like a drop, and it was great because it was so different. I guess now with niche perfumery and the bottles needing to be square and minimalistic we’ve lost a little of the design creativity. The companies used to spend so much money on the bottle if you think about it, and this is what attracted me to perfumery in the first place … the advert, the dreaminess of it, the bottles.

What was your biggest perfume mistake?
Every once in a while I spray myself with a perfume and think, “I really don’t like it”, and I have to scrub at it. It’s not for the others but more for myself because it really bothers me to have the wrong perfume. When you’re in the business of fragrance and developing fragrance you learn to appreciate everything, but you wouldn’t find me choosing to wear many mainstream fragrances. My sister however wears everything, she loves it all, and she’s a big perfume nerd.

You can only choose one perfume?
My favourite fragrance is Musk by Narciso Rodriguez, which you can’t find anymore, and I’ve been desperate to get some. It’s a fragrance that smells of musk but it doesn't smell like the current Narciso Rodriguez. It’s not only musk, there are other things in there, and it’s quite floral. It smells comfortable, a little shy, but you layer it with other fragrance. I love it because it’s not overpowering.

What perfume should I try?
I’m going to suggest something that was a bit of a discovery for me and is actually a perfume that I use. It’s Do Son by Diptyque. It’s a beautiful floral and it’s not easy to do a really good floral. It’s white flowers with tuberose, and I think a bit of jasmine, but the tuberose is more of an interpretation. It has something quite exotic about it. It’s a good scent. To be honest there are so many to choose from. I met Leo Crabtree from BeauFort London, I’d never smelled his fragrances before and thought, “wow, this is really good”. I’m not easily impressed by most of the fragrances that are released but there is some really good stuff out there.

For more information on The Experimental Perfume Club and Emmanuelle Moeglin you can visit the website at experimentalperfumeclub.com

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