ARTEMIS by Soki London

Alternative spins on established styles are one way that the perfume industry continues to reinvent itself with each new release. Whether this is a particular fragrance family, a worldwide bestseller, or even a specific ingredient focus, it’s the new presentation of something which has a familiarity that often grabs the attention of customers above a wholly new idea. There are few perfume inspirations that haven’t been done in one way or another other in the past, but the new Artemis from Soki London absolutely lives up to the well-known adage that “if you go down to the woods today, you’re sure of a big surprise.”

The idea of losing yourself in the centre of a deserted forest is something that crosses everyone’s mind at some point. This longing for some quiet solitude away from the noise of everyday life is unfortunately out of the reach of most of us. Luckily we have perfume to fill the gap between dreams and reality. Using forests and woods as inspiration is nothing new, ånd perfumes gave us their take with Båre while Adscenture experimented with light in Firefly, but harnessing the experience into fragrance form is not an easy exercise. That’s because personal experiences are exactly that, “personal”.

When we think about a forested escape, many people will think of leaves underfoot, the light breaking through the bare tree trunks, or transparent mist hanging in the air. Alternatively, our minds might journey to exciting liaisons, clandestine affairs, and the scent of skin against the crushed bracken. The possibilities are endless, just as ingredient combinations are endless, and so finding the balance between dreams, desires and realism is what drives the creative process of every scent. Making the final fragrance exciting, while at the same time accessible, is the ultimate goal of every perfumer.

When Sophie King first came up with the idea of Artemis, she wanted to capture “the essence of the forest at night” and “the mysteries of the woodland”. She enlisted the help of Ruth Mastenbroek and Nic Mastenbroek, who had created her previous Empress and Aphrodite fragrances. In their capable hands, the latest perfume continues the journey that started with a fruity gourmand, moved onto a tropical aquatic, before this time settling on green woods. I wasn't sure to expect from a midnight walk through a wooden glade, but Artemis definitely verges more towards “Lady Chatterley’s Lover” than “The Teddy Bear’s Picnic”.

Artemis opens with a deliciously over-ripe fruit medley of peach skin, juicy nectarine and glistening plum. This trio gives an immediate texture to the fragrance, and is given an added burst of mystery thanks to a dart of green galbanum and aromatic bergamot. The depth of the opening draws you into the perfume, mirroring the journey into the forest, where a honeyed osmanthus and rose-edged peony hint at the night-time blooms that surround you. The development of the fragrance is the highlight though, with a sensuous amber quality exuding an aroma of resinous labdanum, but paired with the refined sandalwood and cedarwood duo. Conjuring echoes of beauty meeting the vetiver-clothed beast, Artemis is definitely a rendezvous that you'll want to keep.

Artemis is available from the Soki London website at shop.sokilondon.com, and also online from theperfumeshop.com, priced at £75 for 50ml and £29 for 15ml. [Sample provided by Soki London]