Succulent fruits, bursting with overripe juices, is what many people think of when autumn shows its face. The days of warm breezes and sand between your toes are replaced by woolly jumpers and the click of the heating. These fruity aromas also appear regularly in the new perfume releases at this time of the year, partly as a hark back and partly to signal the approaching festive decadence. Now, overly sweetened fragrances are not to everyone’s taste, and even including a fruit in the name can be troublesome. Thankfully Jessica Buchanan of 1000 Flowers has dared to challenge preconceptions with the textural Figuier Sauvage.
Jessica Buchanan is a perfumer that has secured a worldwide following, because her fragrances are both exceptional and original. Starting in aromatherapy, moving to aromachology, before training at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery, she's gone on to launch her own collection of fragrances from her store in the centre of Grasse. Now also teaching the next generation of aspiring perfumers, Jessica’s philosophy is very clear… create the best, with the best. Her ability to tap into emotions and memories has seen her scents regularly appear in Top Ten lists, and her latest release already shows signs of continuing the trend.
One of the most famous quotes to feature the fig has to be from Sylvia Plath’s book The Bell Jar. “I saw my life branching out before me like the green fig tree in the story. From the tip of every branch, like a fat purple fig, a wonderful future beckoned and winked... I saw myself sitting in the crotch of this fig tree, starving to death, just because I couldn't make up my mind which of the figs I would choose.” With so many fig fragrances on the market, you could be forgiven for feeling the same way when confronted by them all.
When Jessica Buchanan turned her attention to the fig, she was following in the footsteps of the likes of Diptyque’s Philosykos, Jo Loves Red Truffle No.1 and Miller Harris’ Hydra Figue. However, her Figuier Sauvage, which translates as Wild Fig Tree, was designed to illicit the scent of the whole tree rather than the more usual syrupy fruit. Gone were the traditional juices, replaced by scented bark, and instead of the flesh you are treated to the freshly peeled skin of the fruit. With a dash of summer sunshine thrown in, alongside a wash of green tones, Figuier Sauvage really is a fragrance not to be missed.
The fragrance opens with a wonderful green leaf quality, that also has a subtle aquatic edge to it, but it quickly reveals the aroma of unpeeled figs. These are figs still on the branches and warmed by sunlight, so there’s none of the usual syrupy scent. This is then added to by a realisation of the tree itself thanks to a superb blending of sharp juniper, dry cedarwood and a smooth sandalwood. However, the real gem in this fragrance is the way Jessica also conjures the environment. The resinous pairing of elemi, with its citrus incense quality, and the smoky myrrh gives a spacious effect that is then added to by a comforting touch of tonka and musk. It’s interesting to note that a hint of clove keeps the fragrance buoyant throughout, and really adds to the effect of dappled sunlight on fruit-laden branches.
Figuier Sauvage is available from the 1000 Flowers website at 1000flowers.fr priced at £70 for 50ml and £18 for 10ml. You can also click on the image below to read my interview with Jessica Buchanan from April 2019. [Sample provided by 1000 Flowers]
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