CHYPRE EAU DE COLOGNE by Jean d'Aigle

The traditional bottle of cologne used to be a staple in every household, but it fell out of favour in certain countries when the eau de toilettes and eau de parfums overtook it in popularity. There was the obvious comparison of strength and longevity, the cologne being more fleeting than its rivals, but in the new push for “quiet fragrances” the humble cologne is fighting back. France never abandoned this celebrated splash, and it's one of its oldest companies that is trumpeting the return. Jean d’Aigle has a history stretching back to 1945, and its Chypre Eau de Cologne is ideal for autumn as it celebrates its 80th birthday.

Cologne as we know it began life in 1709 thanks to the Italian perfumer Giovanni Maria Farina. He famously captured “a spring morning in Italy, of mountain narcissus, orange blossom just after the rain”, and promised that his magical elixir would give “great refreshment, and strengthen the senses and imagination”. It was a bold claim but, if you consider the sanitary habits of the time, not hard to believe. The most famous cologne is arguably 4711 by Mäurer & Wirtz, which launched in 1792, and it definitely cemented the fragrance style - citrus and aromatic bursts that awaken and enliven the user.

So, moving forward 233 years, the fashion for fragrance remains heavy and intrusive for many brands. These overbearing scents are firm favourites on the high street, but there is a growing number of people looking for more intimate scents that enhance rather than mask the wearer. This is where colognes really come into their own. These lower-concentration scents can be liberally applied to the body before getting dressed, locking the scent onto the skin, or spritzed in the traditional way. Their playful nature, and wallet-friendly price tag, means that it’s very easy to have a few on the go at the same time without feeling guilty.

Jean d’Aigle was launched in 1945 in the French city of Marseille, before the company relocated to Aubagne in 1991. The goal had always been to create the finest colognes using the best ingredients, and this is why it has survived for 80 years. It still prides itself on macerating the colognes for four weeks before bottling, and using some of the original equipment from the 1940s, because both steps are integral to maintaining the much-loved nuances that customers have come to expect. There are eleven scents to choose from, but their Chypre Eau de Cologne is the moss-laden entrance to autumn that should be in every home.

The fragrance opens boldly with an immediate pairing of bergamot and vetiver, so you get that expansive pull between the top and base notes as you’re introduced to its wonderful aromatic dryness. This is joined by a subtle floral blend of violet, rose and ylang ylang, but it’s very much a unisex medley that supports rather than dominates the scent. However, the final reveal of the promised oakmoss and patchouli gives a definite tweed suit and “weekend in the country” vibe to the cologne. Within the perfume you also have the labdanum and tonka bean traditionally found in chypre fragrances, so there’s an added sweetened resin that lingers a little longer on the skin. Its “close to the skin” style is a welcome break from dominating fragrances, and the perfect way to celebrate the coming of autumn.

Chypre Eau de Cologne is available from the Jean d’Aigle website at jeandaigle.com, and also Cologne And Cotton, priced at £30 for 250ml. [Sample provided by SG Brands]