The job of a perfumer is to take a jumble of ideas and turn them into a fully formed fragrance. Now, when you work for a large company you can find yourself caught in the middle of many egos all wanting a say on the finished scent. However, as an independent perfumer you are solely accountable to yourself, and so the finished fragrance can often be closer to the original concept. One perfumer that has shown herself to be the mistress of translating emotion and place into scent is Eglija Vaitkevice of Exaltatum, and her latest fragrance takes the wearer on a journey to baroque London. It's time to visit St. Paul's.
Thursday, 16 April 2020
Monday, 13 April 2020
FANTASY by Britney Spears
Everybody loves a birthday and the world of perfume is no different. With so many fragrances released annually it’s often hard for some of them to even reach a second birthday, let alone a very impressive fifteenth. Capturing the moment and securing a fan base is what every new launch strives to do, and that is exactly what happened in 2005. In the year that she sang “I see you lookin' at me,” Britney Spears launched the first of her Fantasy perfumes and it took the celebrity fragrance to new heights. So, fifteen years on, let’s go back to where it all began and see if it still leaves “a tantalising trail of embracing sensuality.”
Thursday, 9 April 2020
DELINA by Parfums de Marly
One of the most amazing parts about the perfume industry is experiencing the moment when the stars really do align. This doesn’t happen very often but, when it does, the results are exceptional. Finding the perfect perfumer for the perfect project, and then watching the company allow them space to create, is a luxury that is not always afforded to mainstream releases. However, in the niche sector it is more common. One such collaboration was between Quentin Bisch and Parfums de Marly. Their 2017 release was the epitome of cashmere soft romance, and it’s time to rediscover the exquisite Delina.
Monday, 6 April 2020
HOPE by Tessa Williams
There have been many occasions where the original direction of a product has taken a different route because of events that are out of a company’s control. This isn't always a bad thing, in fact it's a compliment when it becomes a source of comfort. In unsettling times it often feels reassuring to reach for a product that affirms a positive message, and this is what has happened with the most recent launch from Tessa Williams. Always intended as the conclusion to her scented trilogy, Hope has recently become a fragranced wish that many have chosen to turn to in these challenging times.
Thursday, 2 April 2020
NIRVANA by Barbershop Botanicals
Perfume has often been described as a frivolity that simply forms part of a person’s daily beauty ritual, but that’s a pretty harsh judgement. The fragrance that we decide to wear for the day, or the evening, is often carefully chosen because of the way it makes us feel. Scent has always had the incredible ability to alter the wearer’s mood and mindset, with the more traditional domain of aromatherapy now being very popular in the perfume industry. One of the latest to combine scent with emotion is Marcus Fellowes of Barbershop Botanicals, and his calming Nirvana couldn’t have come at a better time.
Monday, 30 March 2020
STEPHAN'S SIX - MARCUS FELLOWES
When Marcus Fellowes retrained as a barber he never imagined that it would ultimately result in the creation of a collection of four fragrances. Designed to alleviate the worries of his clients through scent, they soon expanded to include a beautiful range of body products. After creating for others, I wondered what scented secrets he would reveal during “Stephan’s Six”.
Labels:
Barbershop,
Barbershop Botanicals,
Brut,
Calvin Klein,
Geo F Trumper,
Glastonbury,
Independent,
Lavender Water,
Marcus Fellowes,
Niche,
Obsession,
Patchouli,
Sartorial,
Stephan's Six
Thursday, 26 March 2020
ROOK by ROOK
One of the issues that many perfume companies face when they try to upscale their business is that it’s often hard to adapt their core values. The idiosyncrasies that make you unique run the risk of being buried within a new corporate structure, and existing fans can be disillusioned by the changes. You can’t remain the same when production dramatically increases, especially when there are outside investors keeping a close eye, but it’s how you manage that transition that is key. The latest company to take on the challenge of upscaling is Rook Perfumes and, whilst the packaging may have changed, the heart has remained.
Monday, 23 March 2020
ASSASSIN BELARUS by Jonathan Ward
There are times when real life can suddenly turn an intimate event into a major occasion. That is what happened on Tuesday 17th March. Plans had been made months in advance to launch the latest candle from Jonathan Ward at his Hackney studio, but a global pandemic was coming ever closer to the United Kingdom. By the time the day arrived all fashion shows and product launches had been cancelled, and so an independent studio in E8 was about to host the final physical event in the beauty industry's calendar. The candle is called Assassin Belarus and it truly does shine a light in these dark times.
Thursday, 19 March 2020
STEPHAN'S SIX - NICOLA THOMIS
Nicola Thomis is the founder and lead writer on The Sniff, a website that has given her the opportunity to review both classic and modern fragrances. A fellow Jasmine Award nominee, and the queen of the York fragrance scene, I wondered what fragranced secrets she would reveal during “Stephan’s Six”.
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