The dark days of the pandemic may seem like a lifetime ago now, as we all busy ourselves once again on life’s hamster wheel, but it has meant a massive shift in the perfume market. Those two years focused our attention away from personal fragrance, that beautiful juice found inside a glass bottle, and instead made us think about the scent of our surroundings. With so much time spent indoors, and without the option to travel, we all wanted some scented escape. That initial fragranced flurry saw many candle brands unfortunately fall by the wayside, but the demand had been ignited and it heralded the arrival of Purnima Fragrances.
Niche Perfumery is a term that’s hard to categorise these days, because the goal posts of what is produced by the large brands has shifted dramatically. Originally thought of as an alternative to the large corporations, most high-street brands now have a “niche” department creating more unusual offerings, and so the lines have definitely blurred. Once the domain of an independent producer creating in small batches, the focus is now firmly on the quality rather than the quantity. Many companies have tried to gain a foothold in the niche sector, with varying success, but the latest to proudly bloom is the Wales-based Ortir Apothecari.
There's a big push at the moment for simplistic designs and uniformity across the fragrances offered by perfume brands. With the bottles remaining constant, it’s often just the label that changes. While the bottle clearly won’t affect the fragrance inside, the pleasure of holding a sculptural item in your hand definitely accentuates the act of applying your favourite perfume. Some bottles are iconic, think of Guerlain’s Shalimar or Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male, and they certainly played a part in their legendary status. Bringing scent and design together is a definite skill, and that can absolutely be said of Soleil Lunar by Lalique.
With May now upon us, and the weather showing a determination to warm up, it’s the perfect time to enjoy those lazy evenings with friends. The familiarity that comes with comfortable companionship really shouldn’t be underestimated, especially when we’re constantly confronted by the “newest”, the “latest”, the “biggest”, and the “brightest”. This idea of familiarity meeting comfort is one that fragrance companies often work long and hard to achieve in their new releases, because it gives customers a feeling of security, and so to find it in abundance in Jonathan Ward’s new Mink Opal perfume is quite the achievement.
The seasonal release from any perfume company is often looked forward to with a greater anticipation than their main ranges, because the excitement of discovering the latest treat, and also knowing that it’s a limited edition, turns the act of wearing fragrance into something even more special. Summer and Spring launches were historically dominated by Bronze Goddess from Estée Lauder and the Aqua Allegoria collection from Guerlain, but all of that was challenged in 2010 when Fragonard began its own seasonal scent range. This year sees Fleur de Citronnier take centre stage, and the result is an uplifting delight.
The worlds of fashion and fragrance have always gone hand in hand, and it’s a tradition that shows no signs of slowing any time soon. These two industries survive on their ability to be inspirational and, more importantly than ever in an oversaturated perfume market, wearable. The mention of fabric “notes” or “velvety” finishes are a great way to spark the imagination when it comes to a customer’s appreciation of a scent, but it also feeds into that all-important fragrance description. One of the most recent additions to the fashion crossover is the re-emergence of tie-tastic Hugh Parsons, and the evocative Camden Town.
One of the biggest challenges that faces any company is staying up-to-date and relevant in an ever-changing market. With so many choices thrust onto customers every day, remaining at the forefront of their minds is the constant goal. Sometimes a brand will opt for a revamp and refocus to continue the ongoing fight against the competitors, while other times they will do a full reinvention. Told London is the latest company to pitch perfectly when it comes to their reinvention and, alongside a recently announced Best Newcomer nomination in this year’s Fragrance Foundation Awards, they are already gathering a loyal following.
The celebratory side of fragrance is something I’ve covered often when writing about perfume, and it always goes hand in hand with a desire to make memories. The link between scent and recollection is well documented, so it’s hardly surprising that companies turn to this olfactive format when wanting to cement an occasion or even a location. New fragrances that centre around a brand’s journey or particular milestones are a great way to recognise loyalty, but the perfume also has to stand on its own. 312 Saint-Honoré from bdk Parfums is the perfect example of scented celebration meeting stylish sophistication.
Our lives often seem to be centred around finding “the one”, whether that be the perfect relationship, the ideal job, or your forever home. But the concept of “the one” also extends to perfume. There is still a fashion for hunting out a “signature” scent, that is one that you’ll be instantly recognised for wearing. I’m sure there have been times when you’ve known who is about to walk into the room before you see them because of their fragrance. However, with so many perfumes to choose from, where do you begin? Well, Ruth Mastenbroek has given you the perfect starting point with her aptly named Signature.
