Thursday 1 February 2018

Guerlain Opens Its Aqua Allegoria Archive

February is usually the month that we end up mourning the loss of one of Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria range. The yearly discontinuation of one fragrance to make way for a new scent is usually met with mixed reactions, but the series always needed to remain at the accepted five and choices had to be made. This year marks a major break in tradition however with Guerlain not only keeping the current five and adding a new one but also reissuing another four from the Aqua Allegoria archives. So, let me show you the four have come out of retirement to make the new collection of ten, and see if one of them is an old favourite.

The Aqua Allegoria range began in 1999 and was launched with the slogan “inspired by nature, created by Guerlain”. Two of the original five are still in the collection, Herba Fresca and Pamplelune, but eighteen years have seen many come and many go. Two past Aqua Allegorias that have already returned are Figue-Iris from 2008 and Jasminora from 2011. Figure-Iris was relaunched as Promenade des Anglais in the Parisiennes series whilst Jasminora returned as Cour des Senteurs Versailles to mark the opening of Guerlain’s new boutique in the city.

The four fragrances that are revived this year are relatively new releases but definitely ones that the fans will welcome back. Three were originally found on the high street whilst the fourth was a travel exclusive that has now been brought into the mainstream collection. The fragrances are Nerolia Bianca, Limon Verde, Teazzurra and Rosa Fizz (which has been renamed Rosa Rossa). The idea of reviving Summer scents is nothing new, Jo Malone did it successfully last year with three of their Blossom Collection, but it does show a renewed interest by Guerlain in capturing the Summer fragrance market.

Nerolia Bianca was created by Thierry Wasser in 2013 and discontinued in 2015. Described as “the spirit of bitter orange and a note of orange blossom”, it was essentially the entire orange blossom tree with citrus and woody notes combining to create the perfect summer cologne. Limon Verde was again created by Thierry Wasser, this time in 2014, and discontinued in 2017. Described as “the spirit of lime with a tropical green note”, this fragrance took a caipirinha harmony in the centre and twisted it with citrus and fig to create a mouthwateringly zesty fragrance.

Teazzurra was originally called Tokyo and created in 2009 by Annick Ménardo for Guerlain’s Une Ville, Un Parfum range. Rereleased as an Aqua Allegoria in 2015, but only lasting one year, it was described as “the spirit of green tea with a note of sparkling citrus fruit”, and that is a pretty accurate description. The final fragrance is Guerlain's 2011 travel exclusive, Bouquet Numero 2. Rereleased last year as Rosa Fizz, but now renamed Rosa Rossa, it was created by Thierry Wasser and originally described as “the spirit of rose and a note of litchi”. For the rerelease it has, more accurately, become “the spirit of a tangy, fruity floral”.

All of the Aqua Allegorias will be available from usual stockists along with this year’s new fragrance, Passiflora.

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