Monday, 4 March 2019

ROSE POLAROID by SP Parfums

The pressures that are on companies to keep producing exciting and original fragrances have never been greater. Our constant demand for “new and diverting” has to be carefully tempered with “familiar and accessible” in order to make the cash registers ring. It’s this mainstream offering of safe, middle ground scents that has seen an increase in customers looking to independent and niche perfumers for their excitement and creativity. Sven Pritzkoleit of SP Parfums is a perfect example of this and last year saw the release of his wonderfully engaging Rose Polaroid. Six months later it’s time to revisit this flash-bulb floral.

When SP Parfums launched in 2016 it was the culmination of ten years of study on the part of the founder, Sven Pritzkoleit. Sven originally trained as a pharmacist, eventually going on to work for the family business in Germany, but he harboured a desire to create fragrance. At the time of the release of his first collection, he said that he was influenced by the combination of “traditional and modern-experimental perfumery,” and how these came together to create a completely new style. The range grew substantially following his first fragrance, Pink Patchouli, and he started to be noticed.

Luca Turin was the first major reviewer to mention Sven in May 2016 and described him as having a “beguiling combination of directness and skill.” He also finished his review of that initial collection by saying, “Really impressive work: try them all.” Alongside creating further fragrances for his own range, Sven also collaborated with Miguel Matos in 2017 on a trio of scents that were inspired by Miguel’s Portuguese roots. It was a different direction for the brand, with Miguel acting as creative director, and the emphasis was definitely on a more “artistic” interpretation.

Rose Polaroid arrived in 2018 and was one of four fragrances that were released that year, a fifth being a single extension to the Matos series. The original idea of Rose Polaroid was to capture “the unique Polaroid flash impression of a green rose.” If you remember the old Polaroid cameras then you’ll recall that slightly metallic scent that came from the paper and also how the colours never quite had the vibrancy that you expected. A sepia wash would always invade the foreground and the flash was bright. Whilst it is a fantastic inspiration, how does Sven Pritzkoleit translate this into a fragrance?

Rose Polaroid opens with an arresting mix of metallic and green nuances that almost push down on the delicately sweetened rose that is trying to come through. When it does arrive, you get the most wonderful blend of jasmine, ylang, spiced Turkish rose, and also a petal-like quality that is bolstered with the perfect dose of violet. These balanced florals give way to a sandalwood and patchouli pairing but it’s the combination of incense and an amber musk that truly clings in the fragrance’s final moments. Rose Polaroid is perfect for those who like their florals tempered and with bite.

For more information about Sven Pritzkoleit and the SP Parfums range you can visit the website at sp-parfums.de [Sample provided by SP Parfums]

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