Thursday, 25 April 2019

PICAFLOR and CHOYITA by Perfumera Curandera

Even in the heavily publicised niche market there are still some companies that are quietly going about their business almost undiscovered. These individuals are the true artisans of their craft and they often don’t get the attention that they deserve. From sourcing ingredients, preparing tinctures, hand blending, and even bottling it themselves, there are absolute gems out their waiting to be uncovered. One such company is Perfumera Curandera. It was founded by Leanne Hirsh in 2009 and very quickly gathered a loyal band of followers. The twelve fragrances share a theme of healing, but there are two that absolutely grabbed me.

When Leanne Hirsh originally started Perfumera Curandera the fragrances were created to order and, even though the company now has a website, the perfumes are still produced in very low quantities. Leanne originally came to prominence as a world-renowned makeup artist, working with the likes of Vivienne Westwood and Vogue, before launching Hirsh Skincare in 1998. It was constructed around an organic seaweed base and became a worldwide bestseller, especially the much-lamented Marine Serum. While she still hopes to revive the collection one day, her current focus is squarely on her natural fragrance line of twelve scents.

Perfumera Curandera came out of Leanne’s twenty-five years’ worth of experiences traveling to the Amazon rainforest and the Andes mountains. Originally a Londoner, but now living in Los Angeles, she learned about the effects of the native plants on health and well-being. The resident perfumeros, also known as vegetelistas, use scent for its healing property, and Leanne wanted to incorporate this into a perfume range. Using specially extracted oils and absolutes from the Amazon, along with other exceptional naturals from around the world, Perfumera Curandera has mastered the mythical whilst respecting its teachings.

Choyita truly is a perfume that blooms on the skin. It opens with a green pine note before a huge dose of orange blossom presents itself. There’s some support from a floral blend but the primary flower is the focus. Saffron adds an exotic quality to it, and tobacco leaf provides a powdery dustiness, but the vanilla and cedarwood combination is addictive without being dominant. At the very end you get an earthy vetiver coming through, with echoes of frankincense, and the listing of piri piri root, which would link together the spicy and woody aspects, is a real pointer to Leanne’s Amazon influence.

Described as the spirit of the iridescent hummingbird, Piclaflor starts in the heart of the fragrance with a beautifully rich combination of jasmine and rose. From here it opens out to reveal a bright effervescence thanks to a semi-tart yellow mandarin and crisp verbena, with a distant hint of neroli that lasts throughout. The subtle use of nutmeg adds a spiciness to the ever-present floral blend before one of Leanne’s root tinctures adds an earthy richness that links beautifully with a sweetened moss and cedarwood. This stunning chypre is truly wonderfully, which is emphasised by my now empty bottle.

Choyita and Piclaflor are available from the Perfumera Curandera website at perfumeracurandera.com with prices starting at $35 [Samples provided by Leanne Hirsh]

[Photograph of Leanne Hirsh © Nina Choi]

5 comments:

  1. Wow, they sound rather special, as does Leanne. It's refreshing to read about a small perfume company like this. Thanks for sharing it with the rest of us Stephan.

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    1. Hello Barry, my goal for 2019 is to try and really focus on smaller and lesser known companies, not necessarily "niche", to help them to get noticed. Please let me know of any that you wish were talked about more. Best, Stephan

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    2. That's brilliant Stephan. I will certainly put on my thinking cap, and let you know.

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  2. These are the only perfumes I wear. Its healing scent helps me relax, and when I first tried it, I was hooked.
    My favorites are Picaflor and Luna, and after reading your review, I want to try Choyita..

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    1. Hello Bobbi, I'm pleased that you enjoy wearing them already and glad that you're supporting an independent perfumer. Do let me know what you think of Choyita when you try it. Best, stephan

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