Sunday, 22 November 2020

OLIVER by Strangers Parfumerie

One of the aspects of the perfume industry that I don’t buy into at all is the notion that scents should have a season. Traditionally we're told to reach for citruses in summer, more woody scents in autumn, and those delectably warm resins in the winter. To be honest, I’ve yet to even work out what we’re supposed to wear in the spring. However, I’ve never followed these draconian rules of fragrance, I just wear what I want when I want, which is why I think this Christmas would be the perfect time to bask in some winter sunshine. So, prepare to be seduced by the incredibly handsome Oliver from Strangers Parfumerie.

When Prin Lomros launched his first fragrance under the name of Strangers Parfumerie in 2017 it was the result of a lot of hard work. After originally studying film making, even though he knew he had a deep love of fragrance, it would be a journey to Grasse that would finally push him to explore perfumery. With his style honed by over four years of private study, and a self-titled company already under his belt, Thailand born Prin promised that his fragrances would be “a playground for experimental approaches with the finest raw materials.” That’s a big statement, but thankfully one that he delivered.

After releasing his debut collection of fragrances, Prin decided that he wanted to dedicate a whole series to the specific theme of LGBTIQ characters from the cinema world. Drawing on his love of film making, he took four films as the inspiration for Oliver, San Clemente, Virginia, Gheorghe, and Burning Ben but, right from the very beginning, he made it very clear that they would be genderless scents designed to be enjoyed by everyone. The subject of equality was never going to be completely solved with five fragrances but, as Prin said, “scents that are created with no gender are a great example for human beings.”

Oliver is based on the film Call Me By Your Name which was originally a book by André Aciman. It deals with the burgeoning relationship, and sexual awakening, of the two male leads Oliver and Elio. After an initially cool beginning, the two form an intense physical bond which results in the famous line “Call me by your name and I'll call you by mine.” The film, but more particularly the book, deals with the scents of summer, the aroma of one’s own tears, and even the fragrance of your lover’s clothes. Whilst the relationship ultimately can’t last, the memories remain and they’re encapsulated in Oliver by Prin Lomros.

The fragrance opens with an incredible medley of aromatic and citrus notes, dominated by the bergamot and coriander, but a solid dose of cypress adds a piercing quality that perfectly locks onto that salty skin accord. This green edge also butts against the peppered floral heart of orange blossom and rose, with a just hint of overripe peach, before a nod to Oliver’s linen shirt comes into frame. A wonderfully earthy blend of oakmoss and vetiver add an arid dryness, but a final pairing of sandalwood along with a note of linden provides the element of confined sexual excitement. This is a fantastic chypre-esque scent that will definitely live in the memory.

Oliver is available from the Strangers Parfumerie website at strangersparfumerie.com priced at $80 for 30ml or $8 for 2ml, where there is also a full list of worldwide stockists. [The 10ml pictured is a review sample, not for sale, provided by Prin Lomros]

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