Those cautious steps into a room that you knew were out of bounds were often met with the scent of powder and perfume, along with an array of bottles and jars. Hanging heavily in the air you didn't know exactly what it was as a child, but when you rediscover those scents in adulthood the feeling can be startling. Regulations and reformulation mean that some of them have been lost forever. Fragrance free, paraben free, lanolin free, the list of changes since those early days is long. Obviously a lot of these were necessary but have we lost a window into the past? Not completely. I stumbled across my own time machine by accident a few weeks ago, and it's all thanks to Estée Lauder.
Thursday, 7 April 2016
Estée Lauder's Scented Decadence
Those cautious steps into a room that you knew were out of bounds were often met with the scent of powder and perfume, along with an array of bottles and jars. Hanging heavily in the air you didn't know exactly what it was as a child, but when you rediscover those scents in adulthood the feeling can be startling. Regulations and reformulation mean that some of them have been lost forever. Fragrance free, paraben free, lanolin free, the list of changes since those early days is long. Obviously a lot of these were necessary but have we lost a window into the past? Not completely. I stumbled across my own time machine by accident a few weeks ago, and it's all thanks to Estée Lauder.Monday, 4 April 2016
STEPHAN'S SIX - NICK GILBERT
Many people that work within the perfume industry claim to be experts. Whether it’s perfume composition, creation or reviews their knowledge can sometimes be looked on as questionable. One person who this doesn't apply to is Nick Gilbert. He previously worked for Penhaligon’s as their Training and Development Manager before becoming freelance, and is also one half of @fragrantreviews which publish twitter’s best 140 word perfume reviews. So, with all of this in mind what would Nick Gilbert make of “Stephan’s Six”?
Thursday, 31 March 2016
PERA GRANITA - Guerlain's Iced Allegoria
There is only one thing that is certain with Guerlain, Spring is the time when fans get to see the latest addition to Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria range. Started in 1999 with five fragrances including Herba Fresca and Pamplelune, the slogan was “inspired by nature, created by Guerlain”. More recently it became usual for one fragrance to leave each year making way for the new release, and so the collection always numbers five. This years casualty was the short lived Teazurra, a reworking of Tokyo from the Une Ville, Un Parfum range, which unfortunately failed to make its mark. Will this years "Iced Allegoria" fair any better?Monday, 28 March 2016
STEPHAN'S SIX - LEIGHTON DENNY
Thursday, 24 March 2016
The Real Difference Between EDP and EDT
The question that I get asked more than any other is, "what is the difference between an Eau de Parfum and an Eau de Toilette?" I wish that I could say there's a simple answer, but unfortunately I can't. This is because there are a few factors which influence the liquid that is in your bottle, and they are all at the discretion of the perfumer and the company which makes your fragrance. It's not rocket science, it's just perfume. So once and for all let me talk you through the different versions of your favourite scent, and I'll show you that the Eau de Toilette is not the poor relation in the family of fragrance.Monday, 21 March 2016
STEPHAN'S SIX - KAREN GILBERT
Many people teach perfumery but very few are able claim the industry experience that Karen Gilbert can. She worked as a fragrance evaluator for many years before starting her own teaching and consultancy business, and her courses are always inspirational. A regular at perfumery events, what secrets would she reveal during "Stephan's Six"?
Thursday, 17 March 2016
VEGA ... Jacques Guerlain's Star
Different periods in history result in different fascinations, and these make themselves known in various forms. What do I mean by this? Simply that the subject or fashion of the day will find its way into every part of our normal life. Remember Bakelite and Melamine? They were used in every conceivable form, including as perfume bottles. So, in an era that became fascinated by the heavens Jaques Guerlain created Vega, and even placed it on its very own melamine plinth. To celebrate the perfume's ninetieth birthday let's plunge headlong into the stars and rediscover this lost Guerlain classic.Monday, 14 March 2016
STEPHAN'S SIX - CHANDLER BURR
Chandler Burr, born in Chicago and raised in Washington, began his journalism career in 1987, but it was his book The Emperor of Scent which brought him to the attention of perfume fans around the world. As a result, from August 2006 until the end of 2010, Chandler was perfume critic for the New York Times before leaving to create the Department of Olfactory Art at the Museum of Arts and Design in New York City. Now, he said that he wanted his answers to "Stephan's Six" to be "super short", and indeed they are. So, hold on tight because they come thick and fast!
Thursday, 10 March 2016
Carnal Lust at 4160Tuesdays
When I was invited last July to spend a day with Sarah McCartney of 4160Tuesdays you would have thought that I would jump at the chance. Unfortunately I could never get the dates of her perfume courses to work for me. So imagine my delight when I heard that there was space on one in January, and that I could finally go. Perfume creation is not something that is new to me, but workshops have always been a fairly formal affair with structures and briefs so I was curious what format Sarah's would take. As she is also known for being wonderfully entertaining I knew that anything could happen and probably would.
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