Inspiration takes many forms when it comes to fragrance with everything from space to chocolate shops taking the place of more traditional florals. It’s no surprise then that the covert world of spies has also made its way into the perfumer’s imagination with the release of Kingsman TGC by Azzi Glasser and The Perfumer’s Story. It was originally launched to coincide with the cinema release of the film of the same name, Kingsman: The Golden Circle, but this is far more than just a novelty scent. Kingsman TGC is refined, elegant, and wonderfully sophisticated. So, let’s head to Saville Row and I’ll tell you more.
As we head into autumn it’s the time when perfume companies start to release and promote their seasonal offerings. However, this is also the time when it’s good to remember that these brands have catalogues full of impressive survivors. The “newest” might not always be the right fit for you but I can guarantee that within the collections you will find some quiet gems. One such fragrance is Noix de Tubéreuse from Miller Harris. Originally launched in 2003, and created by the company’s founder, this is a magical tuberose and definitely one that deserves wider recognition. Let’s revisit Noix de Tubéreuse.
Agnès Costa, great granddaughter of the founder of Fragonard Parfumerie, is one of the three sisters that now steer this famous company. Originally founded in 1926 in Grasse, Fragonard has stayed true to its style during the ninety-two years and has secured a very loyal following. After spending a career perfuming others, I thought it was time to find out Agnès Costa’s fragrance favourites during “Stephan’s Six.”
There are two things that I love above all others when it comes to the fragrance industry, candles and Cuir de Russie. The latter is a fragrance that many companies have released, from Chanel right through to Molton Brown, but recently they have all become shadows of their former selves due to ingredient restrictions and changing tastes. One company that has risen to the challenge however is NiceBear, which is part of Maître Savonitto. They have released a candle called LeatherBear and if you imagine muscular legs in leather boots then you’re definitely on the right track. Describing it as “sexy” would be an understatement!
With summer beginning to fade into autumn it feels right to start reaching for slightly heavier scents, especially as the nights also start drawing in. Crisp and woody scents always usually lend themselves beautifully to the autumn season, but this year I found myself longing for something with more of a labdanum-charged sexiness as well. I’ve said many times before, “what’s old to one person is new to another,” and that is exactly how I felt when I was introduced to Army Of Lovers from LM Parfums. Originally launched in 2014, Army Of Lovers is a provocatively dangerous scent that simply cannot be ignored.
One half of the formidable duo behind Perfumes: The Guide 2018, Tania Sanchez is a writer and editor now based in Greece. After growing up in California East Bay, Tania moved to London to co-author the first perfume book, Perfumes: The A-Z Guide, with Luca Turin. Now married to the “Emperor of Scent”, and with a style that is arrow-head sharp, I wondered what we would find out about Tania’s own perfume memories during “Stephan’s Six?”
The word “cologne” has become a little misunderstood in recent years with the term being used to describe anything from strength to gender. As companies played fast and loose with this classic style of fragrance, customers no longer realised just how wonderful this bottle of freshness could be. In an attempt to unscramble the confusion I asked four perfumers to give their opinion on the style, and also to reveal their favourites. Marina Barcenilla, Pia Long, Sarah McCartney and Andy Tauer have all gathered a loyal following with their mix of creativity and knowledge, so could they help us to revisit the classic cologne?
It is increasingly difficult to keep up with all of the new perfume brands that seem to appear on a daily basis, and even harder to smell all of their fragrances. With many companies veering towards a “quantity” strategy, in other words releasing something new every month, it is always refreshing to find a niche perfumer that starts with a small core collection. One such creator is Laura Gámez, the founder of Belsans. Taking inspiration from her aromatherapy roots, but also recognising that the fragrances must work on their own, Laura has created a series of three scents that promise a “unique and exquisite experience,” but do they deliver?
Summer is the perfect time to revisit the classic cologne, and by this I mean a fragrance that is structured in the traditional way rather than merely exhibiting a “freshness” and “effervescence” that has become associated with the style. Many companies offer scents which are described as “cologne” but have little to do with this wonderfully simple form of perfumery, but one brand still proudly specialising in these uplifting scents is Cadentia. A favourite in France, but fairly unknown outside of its native country, the company has just launched their Eau de Cologne - La Véritable range and the results are beautiful.
