Are you a bibliophile, a bibliophage or a reader? The joy of disappearing into a book is something that the world rediscovered during the years of lockdown and, forgiving the slight downturn as the world reopened, has remained strong during 2024. New authors come and go, new subjects are touted as the next new thing, but there are some book categories that remain solid sellers. Perfume and horticulture are two such topics, which does beg the question, “why has it taken so long to combine them into the perfect coffee table tome?” Well, the wait is finally over as we welcome Fragrance: From Plant To Perfume.
Autumn can be a bit of strange period for perfume releases, because it’s often seen as a little bit of an in-between season. We’ve just left the sunshine of the summer with its radiant citruses and are transitioning into the cold weather that’s traditionally personified by winter resins. That means this three-month period is one that is usually given over to celebrating crisp autumnal green notes, unless you’re jumping forward early to December. One company that has cleverly combined both of these into a single release is C.Atherley with their new Geranium No.2 scent, and it’s destined to be just as successful as No.1.
With the similarity between music and perfume, it’s no surprise that the former often acts as inspiration for the latter. I’ve talked before about the crossover of “notes” and “chords”, and even the array of ingredient bottles being described as a perfumer’s “organ”, and so it’s always fun to find a new fragrance that takes up the thread. Perfumes have been inspired by specific pieces of music, or particular pop bands, but an operatic season is a slightly different approach. Eight & Bob have taken the world-famous Glyndebourne Festival as their starting point, and the resulting La Musique de Christie hits all of the right notes.
In a world that is dominated by pictures of the perfect body, the most sumptuous living room, or the ideal holiday getaway, it can begin to feel like there is no possible way of measuring up to these often-enhanced images. This important discussion around what real life actually looks like, versus the doctored online perceptions, isn't a subject that you would necessarily think would form the inspiration for a perfume brand. Well, it has. In an attempt to make things decidedly more “real”, NOYZ has arrived to cut through the fictitious and replace it with fact, and they’ve begun with their scented antidote to a Sh**ty Day.
The men’s grooming market is one that is forever being touted as “the next big thing” and “the sector to focus on” but, in reality, it’s one that has happily ticked along for generations. Whether we’re talking about the legendary Macassar Oil, the traditional Geo F. Trumper Shaving Cream, or even the new Eight & Bob Bath and Body range, men’s grooming products have always been an established part of daily routines. In more recent years the bestsellers may have changed, eye balms in favour of aftershave splashes, but tradition always powers through. That’s where Milano Cento comes in with their new Shaving Cream.
There can be no doubt that in the United Kingdom we have hit autumn with a vengeance. The wind is howling, the rain is falling, and a “crispness in the air” actually translates as “bloody cold”. However, it’s the vastly changing seasons that make this wonderful island such a special place to live. Having said that, it does feel a little early to be reaching for the amber-imbued sweetness that is reserved for the winter months. Happily Versace have come to the rescue with the beautifully timed Eros Energy. With some tantalisingly crisp citrus and woody facets, it feels like Versace have hit gold once again.
The need to explore is something that is instilled in us all from childhood - whether that’s as simple as discovering what lies at the end of the garden or delving into personal heritage. We are all naturally curious by design, and that doesn’t change as we get older. Exploring perfume can also be thought of in that simple or complex way - are you discovering the various types of fragrance or delving into one fragrance family? Electimuss London have combined a few of these ideas in their Explorer Collection, which draws from Roman society and their love of exploration, and it all begins with Spice d’Arno.
Scent and sensuality is a pairing that perfumers often strive to achieve in both niche and mainstream fragrances, but there’s a delicate balance that needs to be struck between the sultry and the slutty. The use of powerful resins within formulas often pushes the final scent to the latter - which isn’t to everyone’s taste. Finding that ideal point where the excitement of a liaison meets the realisation of the everyday, or even the marker that a steamy encounter is over, is the perfumer's sought after Gräfenberg spot. So, to find it in a debut collection is rare, but that’s exactly what you get with Ghost of You from Mythologia Perfumes.
Having an established history and a worldwide reputation is not always a guarantee of success for a perfume house, especially if it’s one that was revived after a period of dormancy. Living up to the memories of customers who may, without actually realising it, be recalling scents in a far-from-true form can often prove difficult to navigate. However, when it’s done right, it can prove to be a diamond in a sea of commercial beige. One such perfume house is Grossmith who, after a period in the wilderness solely surviving on novelty soap, was reborn as the luxury brand that it always was and which it truly deserves to remain.
