Showing posts with label Jicky. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jicky. Show all posts

Monday, 16 September 2024

HASU-NO-HANA by Grossmith

A bottle and box for the perfume Hasu-no-Hana by Grossmith
Having an established history and a worldwide reputation is not always a guarantee of success for a perfume house, especially if it’s one that was revived after a period of dormancy. Living up to the memories of customers who may, without actually realising it, be recalling scents in a far-from-true form can often prove difficult to navigate. However, when it’s done right, it can prove to be a diamond in a sea of commercial beige. One such perfume house is Grossmith who, after a period in the wilderness solely surviving on novelty soap, was reborn as the luxury brand that it always was and which it truly deserves to remain.

Monday, 3 July 2023

STEPHAN'S SIX - BROOKE BELLDON

Picture of Brooke Belldon, owner of perfume retailer Sainte Cellier

When Brooke Belldon drew on her long-term passion for fragrance to launch the retail website Sainte Cellier, she quickly gained a reputation for stocking a carefully curated selection of the best that niche perfumery has to offer. Brooke has been a well-known face in the fragrance community for over a decade but, even after becoming a go-to voice for the niche market, still playfully describes herself as “an obsessive collector and enthusiastic student”. With such a wealth of knowledge, it was great to finally sit down with her and discover her scented memories during “Stephan’s Six”.

Monday, 29 October 2018

SHALIMAR by Guerlain

One of the joys of writing about scent is that I occasionally get the chance to revisit a fragrance that can truly be described as a “classic” in the history of perfumery. The word is used too frequently to describe all sorts of fragrances, and it often feels as though it has lost a little of its importance. However, when it comes to Shalimar by Guerlain the word is absolutely spot on. For a fragrance that is ninety-three years old, this matriarch of a scent still has something to offer to younger generations, especially those who dare to be different. Let me reintroduce you to this Jacques Guerlain classic.

Monday, 24 July 2017

STEPHAN'S SIX - ANDY TAUER


Andy Tauer has certainly taken the perfume industry by storm since he launched his first fragrance in 2005. Originally born out of an idea at a dinner party, Andy has gone on to create twenty-eight (at the last count) of the finest scents in the “niche” market, and he’s also a really nice guy. So, I thought it was time to find out a little bit more about the man behind the cobalt blue bottles and ask him “Stephan’s Six”.

Thursday, 19 January 2017

INVISIBLE PALLADIA by 4160 Tuesdays

Every so often I get sent a fragrance just for fun. By that I mean that it's not something that is commercially available. Sometimes it's a modification, sometimes a trial, and sometimes an unused test. This was what happened last year when 4160 Tuesdays, more specifically Brooke Belldon, found an unreleased fragrance in the workshop and sent me a sample. A combination of luck, Brooke's squirrelling and my love of gin meant that I was unexpectedly given the ultimate feel-good fragrance. Throw in my not being able to read Brooke's handwriting and this years INVISIBLE PALLADIA was born.

Thursday, 17 November 2016

GUERLAIN'S TOP FIVE by Stephan Matthews and Monsieur Guerlain


It's difficult to imagine having to choose your top five Guerlain fragrances, but that's exactly what Monsieur Guerlain and I were asked to do. We were set the challenge of deciding our favourites from those that are still in production, and hopefully it will inspire you to add one, or possibly two, onto your Christmas list. Fragrances mean different things to different people and, whilst our choices have some similarities, there are some interesting differences. Monsieur Guerlain's five are firmly rooted in the company's classic period, but one of my choices will definitely cause a few raised eyebrows. So, get a stiff drink and let's begin the Guerlain Boys' Top Five.

Thursday, 14 July 2016

NATURAL v SYNTHETIC

Every couple of weeks you see the same topic raise its weary head again. I say "weary" because you always get the same points presented by both sides and neither will budge in their dogmatic opinion. They each try to win an argument that is fundamentally based on the misconception that natural is always good and synthetic is always bad. I've lost count of the number of times that I've heard "everything smells synthetic these days". So, for the final time, naturals and synthetics each have their own place and when used in combination can create truly mind-blowing fragrances. Still don't believe me?

Thursday, 23 June 2016

GUERLAIN - The King Of Colognes

It's a rite of passage, a marker of acceptance, an honour above all others. It's a very select club which currently only has five members. A company which became famous for a very special Eau de Cologne continues that tradition by asking each of its perfumers to create their own cologne to sit alongside previous generations. I am of course talking about Guerlain. Each perfumer through its history has contributed their own interpretation to this exquisite collection. With a span of one hundred and fifty seven years from the first to the last you know that you're going to run the whole gamut. So let's take a look at the Perfumers' Collection.

Thursday, 10 December 2015

Bella Bellissima's PERFECT NIGHT

The eternal dream, a perfect night followed by a perfect day. The idea of a high energy, sexually charged experience with the perfect partner that leaves you breathless but wanting more. In perfume terms this is nothing new, but it has never gone to that pre-cigarette moment when your head is spinning and you can't catch your breath. Until now. Well, actually it was 2007, and the perpetrator of this olfactory pleasure was Bella Crane. When creating a sexually charged scent there is a fine line between wearability and provocativeness. So, let me show you your Perfect Night, and then tell me if it doesn't leave you wanting more.

Monday, 2 November 2015

Galimard Slashes Its Catalogue

It happens every day, but it doesn't make it any easier. Perfume companies cannot keep everything in permanent production, and so some fragrances inevitably get discontinued. Sometimes this is due to ingredient regulation, but more often it is simply because of a fall in sales. So, it is with deep regret that I have to be the bearer of bad news. Galimard have taken the mammoth decision to discontinue thirteen of their heritage range!

One of these is the fragrance that relaunched the company back in 1946, but that customers have unfortunately turned their backs on, and the others are also pre-2000. They are available while stocks last, but don't wait too long because quantities are limited and they are already out of production. Here is a rundown of my favourites from the list, along with a description of each one.

Wednesday, 30 September 2015

JICKY by Guerlain

In our constant quest for "newness" and originality we sometimes forget some of the classic creations from the past. These evergreens manage to hold onto their reputation through a mixture of rediscovery and loyalty. Maybe it's time to start revisiting these icons, and where better to start than with the one that changed the face of perfumery for ever.

The fascination in the early nineteenth century was the beautiful soliflor fragrance or the ever popular lavender. Some scents were simply single flower preparations, or if they did have additional ingredients then they were only present to extend the life of the fragrance, or boost the central ingredient. That was until 1889, when Aimé Guerlain created a truly iconic perfume.

Thursday, 13 August 2015

APRÈS L'ONDÉE - From Seduction to Blue Hue

Created in 1906 by Jacques Guerlain, Après l'Ondée is an all time classic. It has had a troubled history, and for a period it was heavily criticised, but it has managed to survive and is now the oldest "female" creation still in production by the company. Just to clarity, the fragrances older than this one are Cologne Imperiale 1853, Jicky 1889, Cologne du Coq 1894 (all unisex), Mouchoir de Monsieur 1904 (masculine) and then the jewel in the crown. Why do I love Après l'Ondée so much? Quite simply, it is a masterpiece of delicacy meeting mystery, freshness meeting earthiness, and expanse meeting warmth.