Monday, 20 June 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - LUCA TURIN


The subject of Chandler Burr's The Emperor of Scent, Luca Turin is a biophysicist with a love of all things olfactive. He started his famous perfume column for NZZ Folio in 2003 and was immediately respected for his honesty. With words that can cut you down to size, but still winking at the same time, he is a popular speaker and writer. When someone has spent thirteen years discussing perfume, I wondered what more we would learn during the Emperor's "Stephan's Six"?

Thursday, 16 June 2016

MILANO CENTO is back

Many reviewers describe fragrance as a "time machine" which can take you on a journey into your past, but that is always dependent on your having a link to the fragrance in the first place. What if a perfume came along which catapulted you back to the eighties without ever having smelled it before? I'm not going to lie, I was a little scared of this beast initially because the late eighties and early nineties were not known for subtlety. However that is exactly the joy of this powerhouse, which is back after a twenty four year absence. Pick up your VHS, reach for your Dynasty shoulder pads, and let me reintroduce you to Milano Cento.

Monday, 13 June 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - DEBBIE FLINT


Familiar to a generation of children as the face of the BBC's Broom Cupboard, Debbie Flint reinvented herself as an anchor for BSB, a game show host and is now best known as a long serving presenter on the shopping channel QVC. In amongst all of this she also finds time to be a busy novelist, so I was pleased that she managed to squeeze me in. For someone who spends their life around fragrance on QVC, what would she reveal abut her own perfume memories during "Stephan's Six"?

Thursday, 9 June 2016

Agatha Christie - The Scent Of Murder

Fragrance has always been regarded as one of the best triggers for our memories, but we sometimes forget just how much trouble it can get us into as well. Perfume on a collar, whisky on your breath, cigarette smoke in the air. One lady who put fragrance to full use was the Queen of Crime, Agatha Christie. In three of her books it is the scent, and even the lack of it, that helps Poirot's "little grey cells" to solve the mystery. With "scented" book suggestions by Agatha Christie expert John Curran, along with contributions from Nick Gilbert, Odette Toilette and Luca Turin, let's look at those stories and, alongside a perfume suggestion for each crime, we'll investigate the Scent of Murder!

Monday, 6 June 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - ROBERT HALLMARK


A corporate solicitor is not the first person that you would imagine as the brains behind a new British beauty brand, but that is exactly what Robert Hallmark was. He trained in law, and for seven years worked in Birmingham and London before setting up Gruhme in March 2013. Now, I love his fragrance, Gruhme No.14, but I was interested to find out what led him to release that particular fresh scent. Would the answer lie in "Stephan's Six"?

Thursday, 2 June 2016

Does HABANITA Still Have Her Bite?

“Le parfum le plus tenace du monde” was a huge statement to make about any fragrance, but the one that was being described definitely deserved the accolade. Outside of its home town it translates as “the longest lasting perfume in the world”, and it is interesting to note that this “tenacious” fragrance actually came about by accident. I’m talking about Habanita by Molinard, and in her ninety-fifth year it’s time we looked back on this sensual grand dame. How did she become such a phenomenon, what does it share with Chanel No.5, and are the rumours of a discontinuation really true?

Monday, 30 May 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - MARK MANLEY


He started by doodling on a post-it note and went on to become a published artist with his book @3MinuteDoodle. Mark Manley has managed to do something different in the world of art and he's sketched theatre to film, and everything in between. With a career based around speed his answers to "Stephan's Six" are short, sharp and perfectly drawn.

Thursday, 26 May 2016

HAS "NICHE" HAD ITS DAY?

One of the problems with perfume, as with most other hobbies or pastimes, is that there will always be an element of snobbery from certain camps. This can be around a particular brand, certain perfumers, even the direction that companies choose to take their scents. I find the greatest cause of misinformation usually comes from this group as they wage a war against anything that classifies as "mainstream". The word that is bandied around constantly at the moment is "niche", but is it time that we finally put it to bed in favour of a different one? I know that I am sticking my head well and truly above the parapet but my heckles are raised and it's time to voice my opinion.

Monday, 23 May 2016

STEPHAN'S SIX - MARINA BARCENILLA


You might not have heard of Marina Barcenilla, but you've probably heard of her award winning perfume, India, which won Best Independent Fragrance at last week’s Fragrance Foundation Awards. Born in Spain, her desire was to try and create a perfume range grounded solely in traditionally extracted ingredients. Would her perfume memories for "Stephan's Six" include any surprise synthetics?